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One option that might help - check if your employer offers commuter benefits through payroll deduction. My company lets me set aside up to $280/month pre-tax for qualified parking expenses. It reduces my taxable income so I'm not paying income tax on the money I use for parking. It's not a deduction, but it's still tax savings!
Does anyone know if I have to ask about this specifically or would it be something automatically offered in benefits packages? I've been at my company for 3 years but don't remember seeing anything about commuter benefits during enrollment.
You definitely need to ask specifically about commuter or transportation benefits. Many companies offer them but don't promote them heavily during benefits enrollment since they focus more on health insurance and retirement plans. It's often administered through a separate system. Check with your HR department or benefits coordinator. If they do offer it, you can typically enroll at any time, not just during open enrollment. If they don't currently offer it, some companies will consider adding the benefit if enough employees express interest since it's relatively simple to implement and also saves the company on payroll taxes.
Just an outside-the-box thought - have you looked into carpooling with coworkers to split the parking cost? I was paying $175/month until I found two colleagues who live near me. Now we rotate driving each week and my parking cost is effectively $58/month. Not a tax solution but definitely helps the budget!
Or check if monthly parking passes are cheaper than daily rates! When I switched to a monthly pass instead of paying the daily rate, I saved about 35%. Some garages also have early bird specials if you arrive before a certain time.
Another option is to check with your local office supply stores. Stores like Staples, Office Depot, or even Walmart sometimes sell tax form kits that include templates (usually on CD or as a download code) along with the physical forms. These are usually made by companies like Adams or TOPS. I used one last year and the templates were pretty basic Excel files, but they were precisely formatted to line up with the official forms. Cost me around $40 for the kit but it saved a ton of headache.
Do those store-bought kits usually include multiple forms? I need to do about 15 1099-MISCs this year, and some packages I've seen only include 5 forms.
The kits vary, but most I've seen include 10-25 forms plus one or two 1096 summary forms. If you need more, you can usually buy additional forms separately. The important part is that once you have the template software, you can print as many forms as you need if you purchase additional blank forms. Look for kits labeled as "1099 & 1096 Kit for Laser and Inkjet Printers" or something similar. Just be sure to check that it's for the current tax year, as the forms do change occasionally.
Just a reminder for everyone that the rules changed in recent years - most independent contractor payments that used to go on 1099-MISC now need to be reported on 1099-NEC instead. Make sure you're using the right form!
This tripped me up last year! To clarify, what exactly is supposed to go on 1099-MISC now vs 1099-NEC? I have both contractors and some royalty payments.
I accidentally filed everything on 1099-MISC last year even though they should have been on NEC, and had to amend all of them. What a nightmare.
8 Quick tip from someone who went through this: make sure you get clarity on what your acquisition cost is considered to be for CGT calculations. Is it when you originally bought together? Or does the divorce create a new acquisition value? This makes a huge difference to the gain calculation. Also don't forget to factor in any improvements you made to the property (extensions, major renovations, etc.) as these can be added to your acquisition cost to reduce the taxable gain. I nearly forgot about the loft conversion we did that added £40k to the base cost!
3 This is such an important point. When I sold post-divorce, my accountant didn't initially factor in the £27k kitchen renovation we'd done, which would have significantly increased my CGT bill. Do things like a new bathroom count as "improvements" or just "maintenance"?
8 Great question about bathrooms. The distinction between "improvements" and "maintenance" is important for CGT. A completely new bathroom would typically count as an improvement and can be added to your base cost. However, just replacing existing fixtures with similar ones is usually considered maintenance and isn't allowable. The rule of thumb is whether you've enhanced the property's value or just maintained its condition. Extensions, loft conversions, new kitchens or bathrooms, adding central heating where none existed before - these count as improvements. Repainting, fixing a leaky roof, or replacing worn carpets are maintenance and can't be added to your base cost.
22 Has anyone dealt with the stamp duty implications when buying a new place after divorce? I'm in a similar situation where I'll get a portion of our house sale but I'm worried I'll have to pay the higher stamp duty rate on my next purchase since technically I'll still be "owning" part of a property until completion day of our family home sale.
19 You should be fine as long as you sell the shared property before or on the same day you complete on the new purchase. If there's going to be a gap where you technically own parts of two properties, then yes, you could be hit with the higher rate. Timing is everything!
Just to add another perspective - I'm an enrolled agent and deal with this frequently. The PTIN requirement is clear cut: if you're being paid to e-file forms, you need one. But there's more to consider: 1) Getting an EFIN requires fingerprinting and a background check 2) You'll need professional tax software with e-filing capabilities 3) You're taking on liability for the accuracy of what you submit, even if the client prepared it 4) There are annual continuing education requirements to maintain your status If you're just looking to make a few bucks helping people e-file extensions, the compliance requirements might make it not worth your while.
Thanks for this detailed breakdown! I didn't realize getting an EFIN was so involved. Do you know roughly how long the whole process takes from applying for a PTIN to getting approved for e-filing?
Getting a PTIN is pretty quick - usually just a few days if there are no issues with your application. The EFIN process is much longer. After you submit the application, get fingerprinted, and complete the background check, it typically takes 45-60 days for approval. So if you're thinking about offering this service for the upcoming tax season, you should start the application process immediately. And remember that you'll need to renew your PTIN annually, which means additional fees. The EFIN doesn't need annual renewal, but you do need to keep your information updated with the IRS.
Everyone's talking about the PTIN, but another option is to become an Electronic Return Originator (ERO) and partner with a tax professional who has a PTIN. Some software platforms allow this arrangement where the PTIN holder reviews and "signs" the submission while you handle the client relationship and data entry as the ERO.
This is misleading. An ERO still needs an EFIN from the IRS, which requires background checks and compliance with IRS e-file regulations. You can't just "become" an ERO without going through the proper channels. And for the PTIN holder, they're still taking on liability for returns they "sign" - most professionals won't do this unless they're properly compensated and have reviewed everything.
You're right, I should have been clearer. Yes, you still need an EFIN to be an ERO, which requires the background check and application process. What I was trying to say is that there are partnership arrangements where one person has the client relationship and another has the PTIN, working together to provide the service. It's definitely not a shortcut around IRS requirements - just a different business model. Thanks for the correction!
Amara Torres
The article referenced is about Peter Thiel, who basically put PayPal founder shares valued at less than a penny each into his Roth IRA back in 1999. When PayPal went public, those shares exploded in value. He then used the proceeds to make other investments inside the Roth, continuing to grow it tax-free. What's important to understand is this: technically, anyone can use a self-directed Roth IRA to invest in alternative assets including private company shares. The challenge for normal folks is: 1) Having access to those potentially explosive investments 2) Getting them at valuations low enough to fit within contribution limits 3) Having enough insider knowledge to identify future unicorns While we can't replicate Thiel's strategy exactly, self-directed IRAs do allow investments beyond typical stocks/bonds. You can invest in real estate, private equity, startups, precious metals, etc. Just be careful of prohibited transaction rules - you can't self-deal or invest in closely related businesses.
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Olivia Van-Cleve
ā¢Has anyone here actually set up a self-directed Roth IRA? What's involved in the process and what are the ongoing costs? I've heard there are specialized custodians required and wondering if it's worthwhile for smaller accounts.
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Amara Torres
ā¢I set up a self-directed Roth IRA about 3 years ago. The process involves finding a custodian that specializes in alternative assets - companies like Equity Trust, Directed IRA, or IRA Financial Group. You complete their paperwork, transfer funds from an existing Roth or make a new contribution, and then direct investments through their platform. The costs vary significantly between custodians. Most charge an annual fee (typically $200-600 depending on account size) plus transaction fees for each investment. Some charge based on number of assets held, others on account value. For smaller accounts under $50,000, these fees can significantly impact returns, so I'd recommend having at least $75,000-100,000 before considering this route to make the administrative costs worthwhile relative to potential returns.
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Mason Kaczka
One regular-person strategy I've used that's helped maximize my Roth is appropriate asset location across accounts. I keep my highest growth potential investments (small cap stocks, emerging markets) in the Roth, while my more conservative investments (bonds, dividend stocks) stay in traditional retirement accounts. Over 10 years, this has made a noticeable difference because the investments that grew the most were completely tax-free in the Roth, while the slower-growing investments in traditional accounts will be taxed at potentially lower rates in retirement. Obviously nothing like the tech billionaire strategy, but it's something practical anyone can implement!
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Sophia Russo
ā¢I've heard conflicting advice about this though. Some advisors say to put bonds in the Roth because they generate regular income that would be taxed, and growth stocks in taxable accounts where you can harvest losses and get long-term capital gains rates. What made you choose your approach?
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