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Brian Downey

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I just went through this exact situation with a CP22A notice a few weeks ago! Everyone's advice about selecting "Notice" in DirectPay is absolutely correct - that's definitely the right option for your CP22A payment. One thing I'd add that really helped me is to have a backup payment method ready, just in case there are any technical issues with your primary bank account. I ran into a temporary problem with my bank's online system during the payment process, and having my debit card information ready as a backup saved me from missing my deadline. Also, when you're entering your information, take your time and double-check everything before hitting submit. The system is pretty forgiving, but it's better to get it right the first time than to have to deal with payment corrections later. The whole process from start to finish took me about 15 minutes, and I got my confirmation immediately. Make sure to save that confirmation number - you'll want it for your records. The $825 will likely show up as pending in your bank account within 24-48 hours. Good luck with your payment!

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Oscar O'Neil

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Thanks for the backup payment method tip! That's really smart thinking ahead. I'm definitely going to have my debit card info ready just in case something goes wrong with the bank transfer. Quick question about the timeline - when you say the $825 shows up as pending in 24-48 hours, is that when the IRS actually receives credit for the payment, or is that just when it shows as processing on the bank side? I want to make sure I understand the timing correctly since my due date is coming up soon. Also, did you happen to get any follow-up correspondence from the IRS after making your payment to confirm they received and applied it correctly? I'm trying to plan out what to expect in the coming weeks. Thanks for sharing your recent experience!

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I actually work in tax resolution and deal with CP22A notices regularly, so I can definitely help clarify a few things! You're absolutely right to select "Notice" as your payment type in DirectPay - that's the correct option for any IRS notice payment. Here are the key pieces of information you'll need to have ready: - Your Social Security Number (primary taxpayer if married filing jointly) - The notice number (should be clearly marked on your CP22A) - The notice date (exactly as printed on the letter) - Tax year the notice relates to - Your bank account and routing number (if paying by bank transfer - no fees vs. debit card fees) One thing many people miss: make sure you're paying the correct amount! If your notice is more than 2-3 weeks old, additional interest may have accrued since it was issued. You might want to add an extra $10-20 to cover any additional interest, or call the number on your notice to get the exact current balance. The DirectPay system will credit your payment on the date you submit it (if done before 8 PM ET), which is what matters for avoiding additional penalties. Just make sure to save/print your confirmation page - that's your proof of payment if any issues arise later. The whole process typically takes 10-15 minutes once you have everything organized. You've got this!

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Debra Bai

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This is incredibly helpful professional insight! I really appreciate you breaking down exactly what information I need to have ready before starting the DirectPay process. The tip about potentially adding an extra $10-20 for accrued interest is something I wouldn't have thought of but makes total sense given that my notice is about 3 weeks old now. Your point about the payment being credited on the date of submission (before 8 PM ET) is really reassuring since I was worried about processing delays affecting my due date. Quick question - when you mention that people should call the number on their notice to get the exact current balance, do you find that clients actually get through to someone relatively quickly, or is it typically a long wait? I'm trying to decide whether it's worth the potential hold time or if adding that small buffer amount is the safer bet. Thanks so much for sharing your professional expertise - it's exactly the kind of authoritative guidance that makes me feel confident about tackling this payment!

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Oliver Weber

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As a tax professional who specializes in self-employment issues, I want to emphasize something that's been touched on but bears repeating: the IRS has very specific criteria for what constitutes an independent contractor versus an employee, and your situation has several red flags for misclassification. The three main factors the IRS considers are: 1) Behavioral control (do they control how you do your work?), 2) Financial control (do you have unreimbursed business expenses, opportunity for profit/loss?), and 3) Relationship type (do you have employee benefits, is this an ongoing relationship?). Based on your description - showing up to their salon, working set hours, using their equipment - you sound like an employee. The fact that you "don't feel like you're running your own business" is actually a key indicator. Here's my advice: Start documenting everything NOW. Keep records of your work schedule, what equipment/supplies you provide versus what the salon provides, whether you can set your own rates, if you can refuse certain clients, etc. This documentation will be crucial whether you decide to file Form SS-8 for a determination or if the IRS ever audits your employment status. In the meantime, if you're filing as 1099, be conservative with deductions. Focus on supplies you personally purchase, professional licenses, liability insurance, and continuing education. Avoid gray areas like meals and transportation unless you have clear business purposes documented. Remember, getting properly classified as an employee might actually save you money even without the deductions, since your employer would pay half your Social Security and Medicare taxes.

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This is really eye-opening, thank you for the professional perspective! I've been so focused on trying to maximize deductions that I hadn't really considered whether being properly classified as an employee might actually be better financially. Your point about the three factors is helpful - I definitely fail the behavioral control test since my boss sets my schedule, tells me which services to offer, and even dictates how I should interact with clients. For financial control, I really don't have much opportunity for profit or loss since I can't set my own rates or choose my clients. I'm going to start documenting everything like you suggested. Should I be keeping track of things like whether I can take breaks when I want, if I have to ask permission to leave early, or if I'm required to attend salon meetings? These seem like they might be relevant to the behavioral control factor. One question - if I do end up filing Form SS-8, roughly how long does it typically take for the IRS to make a determination? And during that time, should I continue filing as 1099 or wait for their decision? I'm starting to think the peace of mind of being properly classified might be worth more than trying to navigate all these deduction rules. The quarterly tax payments and self-employment tax are honestly pretty stressful to manage.

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Noah Torres

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@599e21df2ccd Yes, absolutely document all those behavioral control factors you mentioned! Things like requiring permission to leave early, mandatory attendance at meetings, set break times, and having to follow specific procedures for client interactions are all strong indicators of an employee relationship rather than independent contractor status. Form SS-8 determinations typically take 6+ months, sometimes longer. During that time, you should continue filing as you currently are (1099) until you receive the official determination. You can't retroactively change your filing status without the IRS determination in hand. However, if you're confident about the misclassification, you can file Form 8919 with your current tax return to pay only the employee portion of Social Security/Medicare taxes (7.65% instead of 15.3%). This is essentially telling the IRS you believe you were misclassified, but it's riskier since you're taking a position before getting official confirmation. I'd also suggest documenting things like: whether you can work for competing salons, if you can send substitutes when you're sick, whether you invest in your own equipment/advertising, and if you have any control over pricing. The more "employee-like" factors you can document, the stronger your case becomes. You're right that proper classification might provide more peace of mind and financial benefit than trying to maximize deductions while dealing with the complexity and risks of self-employment tax obligations.

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I've been reading through this thread and wanted to add something that might help - the distinction between "ordinary and necessary" business expenses versus personal expenses that happen to occur during work. The IRS requires business deductions to be both "ordinary" (common in your type of business) and "necessary" (helpful and appropriate for your business). Your nail supplies, professional licenses, and continuing education clearly meet this test. Your daily lunch and subway commute, even though they happen because you work, are considered personal expenses. One area that might be worth exploring is if you ever travel between multiple work locations in the same day - like if you do nails at the salon and also do house calls or work at events. That kind of business travel (not commuting) would be deductible. Also, since several people mentioned worker classification issues, I'd recommend checking out the Department of Labor's guidance on this too, not just the IRS rules. Some states have even stricter tests for employee vs contractor status, and you might have additional protections under state labor laws. Keep detailed records of everything business-related, but don't let the pursuit of deductions distract you from addressing what sounds like a pretty clear misclassification issue. Sometimes the straightforward solution (proper employee status) is better than trying to work around a problematic situation.

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This is really helpful clarification on the "ordinary and necessary" standard! I've been confused about what actually qualifies as a business expense versus just something I spend money on because I work. The way you explained it makes it much clearer - my nail polish and tools are ordinary and necessary for a nail tech, but my sandwich at lunch is just a personal need that happens to occur during work hours. The multiple location travel point is interesting too. I occasionally do wedding parties or events outside the salon on weekends. I hadn't thought about those trips potentially being deductible business travel since they're between work locations, not just commuting from home. That's definitely worth tracking. I'm also glad you mentioned checking state labor laws in addition to IRS guidelines. I'm in California and I've heard we have pretty strict rules about worker classification here. It sounds like I should research both the tax implications and the labor law aspects of my situation. You're absolutely right that I shouldn't get so caught up in trying to maximize deductions that I ignore what seems like a clear misclassification issue. The stress of managing quarterly taxes and figuring out all these deduction rules is honestly exhausting. Being properly classified as an employee might be simpler and better for me in the long run, even without all the potential deductions. Thanks for helping me think about this more holistically rather than just focusing on the tax deduction piece!

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Omar Farouk

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I went through something very similar with my grandmother last year. The key thing that tripped me up was understanding that ANY money you give her counts as income, even if it's just a "thank you" or help with expenses. What ended up working for us was keeping the cash payments under $93/week (which keeps her under the $4,850 annual limit for 2025) and then covering more of her direct expenses instead. So instead of giving her extra cash, we started paying for things like her prescriptions, clothing, personal care items, and even set up a small monthly allowance on a prepaid card for incidentals. We were able to claim her as a dependent and got a nice tax break. The documentation was key though - we kept receipts for everything we paid for her to prove we provided more than half her support. It's definitely worth restructuring if you can make the numbers work!

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This is really practical advice! I like the idea of keeping the cash under $93/week and covering direct expenses instead. Did you have any issues with the IRS questioning the arrangement or wanting specific documentation? I'm wondering how detailed the recordkeeping needs to be - like do you need receipts for every single thing you buy for her or is there some threshold where smaller purchases don't matter?

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Tyler Murphy

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Based on what everyone's saying about the income limits, it sounds like your current arrangement unfortunately disqualifies your mother-in-law from being claimed as a dependent. At $135/week ($7,020 annually), she's well over the $4,850 limit for 2025. However, I'd strongly recommend consulting with a tax professional about your specific situation before making any changes. There might be nuances to your arrangement that could affect how the payments are classified, and you want to make sure any restructuring is done properly to avoid issues down the road. If you do decide to restructure, the suggestions about keeping cash payments under $93/week and covering direct expenses instead seem like a solid approach. Just make sure to document everything carefully - the IRS will want to see proof that you're providing more than half her total support if you claim her as a dependent. Also, don't forget to consider the childcare angle that Benjamin mentioned. Even if you can't claim her as a dependent, there might be other tax benefits available for the childcare services she provides.

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Amina Bah

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Tyler makes a great point about consulting a tax professional first. I'm new to this community but dealing with a similar situation with my elderly father who moved in with us last year. The income threshold seems pretty strict from what everyone's saying, but I'm wondering if there are any exceptions or special circumstances that might apply? Like does it matter that she's providing a service (childcare) versus just receiving money as support? I'm definitely going to look into some of those resources people mentioned - this is way more complicated than I expected when my dad first moved in with us!

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Payton Black

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One thing nobody mentioned yet - when you're liquidating an S-Corp, check if your state requires a tax clearance certificate before you can formally dissolve the business. I completely missed this step and had to reopen my case with the state after I thought everything was finished. The balance sheet issues in TurboTax might be frustrating, but don't forget about the state-level requirements too. In my state, I couldn't formally dissolve until I got clearance showing all state taxes were paid, and that process took almost 3 months!

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Great point about state requirements! I'm actually going through S-Corp liquidation right now and almost made the same mistake. For the balance sheet issue in TurboTax, one thing that helped me was creating a simple spreadsheet to track all my liquidation transactions before entering them into the software. I listed: - Beginning balances for all accounts - Each distribution with the corresponding reduction in both cash and equity - Asset disposals with any gain/loss calculations - Final balances (should all be zero) This helped me see exactly where the imbalance was before fighting with TurboTax. In my case, I had forgotten to record the accumulated depreciation removal when I disposed of some equipment. Also, make sure you're using the correct tax year dates. Since you're liquidating, some transactions might span multiple tax years, and TurboTax needs to know which year each transaction belongs to for proper reporting. The taxr.ai tool mentioned above sounds interesting - might be worth trying if you're still stuck after manually checking your entries.

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Sophia Long

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This spreadsheet approach is brilliant! I'm dealing with a similar liquidation situation and have been pulling my hair out trying to figure out where my books went wrong. Creating that transaction tracker before entering everything into tax software makes so much sense - it's like having a roadmap. Quick question though - when you disposed of equipment with accumulated depreciation, did you have to calculate any Section 1250 recapture, or was it all treated as regular capital gain/loss? I have some office equipment that's been fully depreciated and I'm not sure how to handle the tax implications when I dispose of it during liquidation. Thanks for sharing such a practical solution!

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Just want to echo what others have said about selecting HOH on your W-4 - you absolutely should since you qualify! I made this switch last year and saw an immediate difference in my take-home pay. One additional tip I haven't seen mentioned: make sure to keep documentation that proves your kids lived with you for more than half the year. This includes school enrollment records, medical records showing your address, any custody agreements, etc. I know it seems obvious since you have full custody, but it's good to have this stuff organized just in case. Also, don't forget that as HOH with two kids, you'll likely qualify for the Child Tax Credit and possibly the Earned Income Tax Credit too, depending on your exact income. These credits can be worth thousands, so it's definitely worth getting your withholding right to avoid a big tax bill or giving the government an interest-free loan. The fact that you're thinking about this proactively with your new job shows you're on the right track. So many people just fill out the W-4 once and never revisit it, even when their life situation changes dramatically!

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This is really great advice about keeping documentation! I never thought about keeping school records as proof that my kids live with me, but that makes total sense. Since I'm just starting this new job, I should probably get organized with all this paperwork now rather than scrambling around next tax season. Quick question - you mentioned the Earned Income Tax Credit. I think I've heard of that before but never really understood if I qualified. Is there an income limit for that credit when you're filing as Head of Household with two kids? With my new salary of $58,000, am I still in the range where I could get that credit? Thanks for pointing out how being proactive about this stuff pays off. I definitely don't want to be one of those people who just sets it and forgets it, especially after going through unemployment and now having a completely different income situation.

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@ElectricDreamer Yes, you should still qualify for the Earned Income Tax Credit (EITC) with a $58,000 salary and two kids filing as HOH! For 2024, the income limit for EITC with two qualifying children is around $61,710, so you're well within the range. The EITC is actually one of the most valuable credits available - with two kids and your income level, you could potentially get a credit of around $4,000-5,000. It's a refundable credit too, which means you get the full amount even if it's more than the taxes you owe. This is another reason why getting your W-4 withholding right is so important. If you're having too much withheld throughout the year, you're essentially giving the government an interest-free loan on money that includes your EITC. Better to have the correct amount withheld and get your refund (including EITC) at a reasonable size rather than a massive one. Definitely keep those school enrollment records and any other documentation showing the kids live with you full-time. The IRS can be pretty strict about EITC eligibility, so having good records is smart planning.

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This is such a helpful thread! I'm a single parent too (one kid, age 10) and I've been making the same mistake for years - selecting Single on my W-4 even though I file HOH on my tax return. Reading through all these responses, I'm realizing I've probably been giving the government way too much money throughout the year and then getting it back as a "refund." That's basically what everyone is saying, right? That if you qualify for HOH when filing, you should select HOH for withholding too so you get more money in each paycheck instead of waiting for a big refund? I'm definitely going to update my W-4 this week. My situation is pretty straightforward - I have full custody, pay all household expenses, and my daughter lives with me year-round. Sounds like I clearly qualify for HOH. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences and tools - this thread probably just saved me hundreds of dollars in overwithholding for the rest of the year!

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