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As a fellow newcomer to the US tax system, I completely understand your confusion! I went through something similar when I first arrived. One thing that really helped me was understanding that the W-4 is just an estimate for withholding - you're not locked into anything. Since you're both working and newly married, I'd recommend: 1. Both select "Married filing jointly" on your W-4s 2. Make sure to check the "Multiple Jobs or Spouse Works" box in Step 2 on both forms 3. Consider using the IRS withholding calculator at irs.gov to get a more precise estimate For dependents, put 0 unless you have children or other qualifying dependents. Health insurance coverage doesn't make you dependents of each other. The good news is that when you file your actual tax return next year, you can choose the filing status that works best for you (likely married filing jointly), regardless of what you put on your W-4s. The W-4 is just to help get your withholding close to what you'll owe. Don't stress too much - you can always adjust your W-4 later if needed once you see how your first few paychecks look!
This is such helpful advice! As someone who's also navigating the US tax system for the first time, I really appreciate you breaking it down step by step. One quick question - you mentioned we can adjust our W-4 later if needed. How soon after starting work would you recommend checking to see if the withholding amounts look right? Should we wait for a few paychecks or is there a way to estimate it sooner? Also, @Kiara Fisherman - since you mentioned your wife is switching schools in August, she ll'probably need to fill out a new W-4 at her new job anyway, so that could be a good opportunity to make any adjustments based on what you learn from your first few months of paychecks together.
Welcome to the US tax system! As someone who also navigated this as a new immigrant, I totally get the confusion. The key thing to remember is that your W-4 and actual tax filing are separate decisions. For your W-4 forms, since you're legally married and both working: 1. Select "Married filing jointly" in Step 1 2. Definitely check the "Multiple Jobs or Spouse Works" box in Step 2 - this is crucial to avoid underwithholding 3. Put 0 for dependents unless you have children The immigration status piece that @Sophie Duck mentioned is really important. If you arrived recently, look into whether you qualify as a resident alien for tax purposes and consider the First-Year Choice election if you don't meet the substantial presence test yet. One practical tip: keep your first few pay stubs and use the IRS withholding calculator online after a month or two to see if you need to adjust. Since your wife is changing jobs in August anyway, that's a perfect time to fine-tune the W-4 based on what you've learned. Don't worry about getting it perfect immediately - you can always adjust as you go!
This thread has been incredibly helpful for understanding the HSA tax situation as a self-employed person! I'm a freelance software developer who's been self-employed for about 8 months, and like many others here, I had no idea about the FICA tax implications of HSA contributions. I've been contributing $4,300 annually to my individual HSA, thinking I was being smart about taxes, but now I realize I'm paying about $658 extra in self-employment taxes (15.3% Ć $4,300) compared to what I would have paid as a traditional employee. That's a pretty significant "penalty" for being self-employed that nobody talks about! The solo 401k strategy everyone's discussing is definitely something I need to implement. I had my priorities completely backwards - maxing out HSA first instead of prioritizing retirement accounts that actually reduce self-employment taxes. It's one of those things that seems obvious once you understand the mechanics, but the marketing around HSAs being "triple tax-advantaged" really doesn't mention this crucial distinction for self-employed folks. I'm curious - for those who have restructured their approach to prioritize solo 401k contributions first, have you noticed any other tax planning opportunities that became clearer once you started thinking about self-employment taxes more strategically? I feel like I'm probably missing other optimization strategies too. Thanks to everyone who shared real numbers and experiences. This kind of practical advice is worth its weight in gold!
@Yara Khoury, great question about other tax optimization strategies! Once I started thinking more strategically about self-employment taxes, a few other opportunities became clear: First, the timing of business expenses matters more when you're self-employed. Large equipment purchases or business investments can be strategically timed to offset high-income years and reduce your overall self-employment tax base. Second, I learned about the qualified business income (QBI) deduction under Section 199A, which can provide up to a 20% deduction on qualified business income for many freelancers and consultants. This doesn't reduce self-employment taxes, but it significantly impacts income taxes. Third, if you work from home, the home office deduction can be substantial. I was initially hesitant about it due to audit concerns, but my CPA explained it's fairly straightforward for legitimate home-based businesses. Finally, health insurance premiums are fully deductible for self-employed individuals (separate from HSA contributions), which is another advantage we have over traditional employees. Your $658 calculation is exactly right, and yes, it's frustrating that the "triple tax-advantaged" HSA marketing doesn't mention this self-employment caveat. But once you optimize the solo 401k strategy and layer in these other deductions, the overall tax picture for self-employment can actually be quite competitive with traditional employment, especially at higher income levels.
This discussion has been incredibly eye-opening! As a freelance photographer who's been self-employed for about a year, I completely fell into the same trap as everyone else here - prioritizing HSA contributions thinking they were universally the best tax move. I'm contributing about $4,300 annually to my individual HSA, which means I'm paying roughly $658 in extra self-employment taxes that I wouldn't pay as a traditional employee. That's almost two months of my health insurance premiums! It's frustrating to discover this "hidden penalty" for being self-employed, especially since no one mentions it when discussing HSA benefits. The solo 401k strategy that keeps coming up in this thread is definitely my next priority. I had it completely backwards - funding my HSA before maximizing retirement accounts that actually reduce self-employment taxes. @Makayla Shoemaker's point about the QBI deduction and other self-employment tax strategies is also really helpful for thinking about the bigger picture. What strikes me most about this conversation is how the "triple tax-advantaged" marketing around HSAs really doesn't tell the whole story for self-employed folks. We're missing that third advantage (FICA savings) that makes HSAs so attractive for traditional employees. It's one of those nuances that can cost us hundreds or thousands annually if we don't understand it. Thanks to everyone who shared real numbers and experiences - this is exactly the kind of practical guidance that makes the difference between stumbling through self-employment taxes and actually optimizing them!
Don't forget about the Qualified Business Income deduction! As a sole proprietor, you can deduct up to 20% of your net business income. So if you make $10k from DoorDash after expenses, you could potentially deduct another $2k from your taxable income. It's automatic for most people under certain income thresholds.
Is that the Section 199A deduction? I've heard about it but wasn't sure if it applied to gig workers or just "real" businesses.
Yes, that's exactly the Section 199A deduction! It absolutely applies to gig workers - DoorDash income counts as qualified business income from a sole proprietorship. The 20% deduction is available for most taxpayers with total taxable income under $182,050 (single) or $364,100 (married filing jointly) for 2023. So if you made $7,200 from DoorDash like the original poster, and let's say after business deductions you have $6,000 in net profit, you could potentially deduct another $1,200 (20% of $6,000) from your overall taxable income. It's a significant tax benefit that a lot of gig workers don't know about! The deduction gets more complex at higher income levels, but for most side gig situations it's straightforward and automatic when you file.
One thing that really helped me when I started DoorDashing was setting up a simple spreadsheet to track everything weekly. I log my total earnings, miles driven, gas expenses, and any other costs like phone accessories or hot bags. For quarterly payments - since you're making decent money ($7,200 in 4 months), you'll probably want to either increase your W-2 withholding or make estimated payments. A rough rule of thumb is to set aside about 25-30% of your net DoorDash income for taxes (including self-employment tax). So on that $7,200, maybe put $1,800-2,100 aside. The self-employment tax is the big surprise for most new gig workers - it's about 15.3% on your net earnings, which covers Social Security and Medicare taxes that would normally be split with an employer. But the good news is you can deduct half of that self-employment tax on your return!
This is super helpful! I'm new to gig work and had no idea about the self-employment tax being so high. Quick question - when you say set aside 25-30%, is that before or after business deductions? Like if I made $1000 in a month but had $200 in expenses, do I set aside 25-30% of the $1000 or the $800 net? Also, do you track your expenses weekly too or just at tax time? I'm worried about forgetting receipts and stuff throughout the year.
Thanks for all the helpful responses everyone! I'm feeling much more confident about this now. Just to make sure I understand the process correctly: 1. Make the two credit card payments first (through approved payment processors) 2. Wait 1-2 days for them to process and show up in my IRS account 3. Use Direct Pay for the remaining balance One follow-up question - when I'm making the credit card payments, do I need to specify which tax form they're for? I filed a 1040 with a Schedule C, so I want to make sure the payments get applied to the right place. Also, is there a way to check online that all my payments have been properly applied before the deadline? The reward calculation definitely makes sense for my situation since I'm working toward a signup bonus on one card and have a 2% cashback card for the other payment. Even with the processing fees, I'll come out ahead.
Yes, you'll need to specify the tax form when making credit card payments - make sure to select Form 1040 for both payments. The Schedule C income is reported on your 1040, so that's the correct form to choose. For checking payment status, you can use the IRS "View Your Account Information" tool on their website or call the automated payment line at 1-888-353-4537. It usually takes 1-2 business days for payments to show up there. You can also check right in the Direct Pay system before making your final payment - it should show your account balance after the credit card payments have been processed. Sounds like you've got a solid plan with those signup bonuses and 2% cashback! Just make sure to keep all those confirmation numbers handy until you see everything reflected correctly in your IRS account.
Just wanted to chime in with my recent experience doing exactly this! I had a $6,200 tax bill last month and used two credit card payments of $2,000 each, then paid the remaining $2,200 through Direct Pay. A few practical tips from my experience: - Make sure you're using the official IRS-approved payment processors for credit cards (PayUSAtax, Pay1040, or Official Payments). Don't use any third-party sites that aren't listed on the IRS website. - Keep your browser open and take screenshots of each confirmation page immediately. I learned this after my first payment confirmation email got delayed by several hours. - The Direct Pay system is really user-friendly and will show you your updated balance after the credit card payments post, which took about 36 hours in my case. One thing I wish I'd known ahead of time - if you have a business checking account, you can also use that for Direct Pay as an additional option if needed. Might be helpful if you hit any daily limits on your personal account. The whole process was much smoother than I expected, and getting those credit card rewards definitely made the convenience fees worth it!
This is exactly the kind of detailed walkthrough I was hoping to find! Thanks for sharing your real experience with the process. Quick question - when you say it took 36 hours for the credit card payments to post, was that over a weekend or during regular business days? I'm trying to time this right since my deadline is coming up soon and I want to make sure I leave enough buffer time. Also, I didn't know about being able to use a business checking account for Direct Pay - that's a great backup option to keep in mind. Did you end up needing to use that or did your personal account work fine for the remaining balance?
Angelica Smith
I'm so sorry this happened to you Kyle! That "TAX REFUND PROC for RFND DISB" description is definitely confusing - it's just the standard Treasury Department wording that appears on all tax refunds, but it doesn't explain why your amount is different than expected. The missing $1,100 is most likely due to an offset for some type of outstanding debt. I'd recommend calling the Treasury Offset Program's automated hotline at 800-304-3107 right away. You just enter your SSN and it will immediately tell you which agency took money from your refund and exactly how much. This is much faster than waiting 2-3 weeks for a notice in the mail. Common offsets include federal student loans in default, past-due child support, state tax debts, or unemployment benefit overpayments from the pandemic. The frustrating part is that the IRS Where's My Refund tool almost never shows these offsets in advance, which is why you were caught off guard. Once you know which agency took the money, you can contact them directly to get details and potentially dispute the offset if there was an error. Don't give up on that money - many people are able to get partial or full refunds when there are mistakes in the collection process or when they qualify for hardship programs. Good luck!
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Angelina Farar
I'm so sorry you're dealing with this Kyle! I know how stressful it is when your refund is way less than expected. That "TAX REFUND PROC for RFND DISB" description is just the Treasury's standard language for all tax refund deposits - it doesn't tell you anything about why your amount might be different. The missing $1,100 is almost certainly due to an offset, which is when the government takes money from your refund to pay outstanding debts. The most frustrating part is that the IRS Where's My Refund tool rarely shows these ahead of time, so you get blindsided like this. Your best bet is to call the Treasury Offset Program hotline at 800-304-3107. It's automated, so you just enter your SSN and it immediately tells you which agency took money from your refund and how much. Way faster than waiting weeks for a letter that might go to the wrong address. Common offsets include defaulted federal student loans, back child support, state tax debts, or unemployment overpayments from the pandemic. Once you know who took the money, you can contact them directly. Don't assume it's gone forever - several people in this thread have successfully disputed offsets or gotten partial refunds through hardship programs when there were errors. Hang in there and definitely make that call tomorrow morning. At least you'll have answers instead of just wondering what happened!
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