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KaiEsmeralda

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Former tax accountant here. Consider the Series LLC structure if it's available in your state. It's specifically designed for situations like yours where you want separate liability protection and accounting for different divisions/owners while maintaining a single overall entity. The Series LLC essentially creates separate "cells" within one LLC, each with its own assets, members, and operations. Each series can have different ownership percentages and expense structures while still filing under a single tax ID.

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Cassandra Moon

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Thanks, this is really interesting! I hadn't heard of the Series LLC before. Is this available in most states? And would each owner still get a K-1 showing their specific income after their individual expenses?

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KaiEsmeralda

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Series LLCs are currently available in about 20 states including Delaware, Texas, Illinois, and Nevada (among others), but the laws vary significantly by state. Even if your state doesn't allow them, you can form one in a state like Delaware and register it as a foreign entity in your home state, though this adds some complexity. Each owner would still receive a K-1 reflecting their share of income based on the operating agreement terms. The operating agreement would specify how individual expenses are accounted for before calculating each person's distributive share. This approach gives you the liability benefits of separate entities with the administrative simplicity of a single filing.

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Debra Bai

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Has anyone considered just doing a simple partnership agreement instead of all these complicated LLC structures? We had 6 partners with varying ownership and just used a solid partnership agreement that specified how expenses were handled. Way less paperwork and fees.

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Gabriel Freeman

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I wouldn't recommend a general partnership for this scenario. Without the LLC structure, all partners have unlimited personal liability for business debts and legal issues. That's a huge risk with 10 different people involved who all have separate business activities! An LLC provides crucial liability protection that a plain partnership doesn't.

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Don't forget to file ASAP even if you can't pay in full! The failure-to-file penalty is much higher (5% per month up to 25%) than the failure-to-pay penalty (0.5% per month). So even if you can't pay everything right away, at least get your return in to stop the bigger penalty from growing.

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Isabella Costa

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If I file now but can only pay like $500 upfront, will the IRS automatically put me on a payment plan or do I have to apply for that separately? I'm in a similar situation with 2022 taxes.

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You need to specifically request a payment plan - it's not automatic. You can do this when you file by submitting Form 9465 (Installment Agreement Request) with your tax return. Alternatively, you can file first and then apply online for a payment plan through the IRS website if you owe less than $50,000. For amounts under $50,000, the online application is pretty straightforward and you can choose your monthly payment amount (as long as it would pay off the balance within 72 months). There's a setup fee that varies based on how you apply and pay - it's cheapest if you apply online and set up direct debit ($31 setup fee vs. $149 for applying by mail/phone with other payment methods).

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Malik Jenkins

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don't stress too much. I had about $35k in doordash income from 2021 I never reported and got hit with a big bill too. If u file now and apply for a payment plan the irs is usually pretty reasonable. I'm paying like $180/month which isn't too bad. Just make sure to file 2023 taxes on time so u don't dig the hole deeper!!!

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Freya Andersen

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How much did u end up owing if u don't mind me asking? And did u get any penalties reduced?

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Raรบl Mora

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For your specific situation as a student working part-time, make sure you're also checking if your parents can claim you as a dependent. This affects whether YOU can claim the education credit or if THEY should claim it on their taxes. Generally whoever claims you as a dependent gets to claim the education credits too.

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Charlee Coleman

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Thanks for bringing this up! My parents and I already discussed this - they aren't claiming me as a dependent this year since I provided more than half of my own support. I've been working almost full-time hours at the restaurant plus some gig work on weekends. So I should be able to claim my own education credits, right? Is there anything specific I need to document to prove I supported myself in case of an audit?

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Raรบl Mora

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Yes, if you provided more than half of your own support and your parents aren't claiming you, then you're absolutely right to claim your own education credits on your return. This is actually the ideal situation for maximizing your benefits! For documentation, keep records of your income (pay stubs, bank statements showing deposits), housing payments (rent receipts), and major expenses throughout the year. Also track any financial aid, scholarships, or loans in your name. You don't need to submit these with your taxes, but having this documentation is important if you're ever questioned about your independent status. A simple spreadsheet showing your total income versus your total expenses for the year can be really helpful to demonstrate you provided over 50% of your own support.

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Margot Quinn

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Has anyone noticed that TurboTax shows different education credit amounts depending on which version you're using? I tried both Deluxe and Premier and got different suggested credits for the exact same info!

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Evelyn Kim

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I had the same issue last year! Turned out the Premier version was correctly applying some course material expenses that the Deluxe version missed. Worth double-checking all the education expense sections regardless of which version you use.

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Experiencing major losses after company IPO - Tax Loss Harvesting strategy advice needed

My former company went public last year and I'm in a tough spot financially. When I exercised approximately 5,500 shares at around $72 per share, things looked promising. Fast forward to today, and the stock (let's just call it ABC) is trading below $15 with little sign of recovery. What was once worth roughly $396,000 is now sitting at about $80,000. I'm looking at an unrealized loss of around $316,000, which is devastating as it represents almost all my assets. I know I should have sold earlier - lesson painfully learned. While I don't want to sell at this new low point, I need to make smart decisions going forward. Meanwhile, I've been investing through Wealthfront for about 8 years and have accumulated approximately $235,000 there, with about $87,000 in unrealized gains. I've considered transferring to Fidelity to avoid the management fees, but I've appreciated Wealthfront's tax-loss harvesting features. My current portfolio breakdown: * ABC Stock Current Value: ~$80,000 * Unrealized Capital Losses: ~$316,000 * Wealthfront Account Value: $235,000 * Long-term gains in Wealthfront: $85,000 * Short-term gains in Wealthfront: $2,000 I'm wondering if this strategy makes sense: 1. Sell my entire Wealthfront taxable account (multiple holdings), realizing about $87,000 in gains 2. Sell approximately 1/3 of my ABC stock, realizing around $87,000 in capital losses 3. Use the losses to offset the gains, eliminating tax liability 4. Reinvest the proceeds into Fidelity with a simple 3-fund portfolio Is this an appropriate tax loss harvesting strategy? And who should I consult about this situation? I don't currently have a financial advisor or tax professional. Thanks for any guidance!

Haley Stokes

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One important thing to consider that nobody has mentioned yet: when you're selling those ABC shares, think about WHICH specific shares you're selling. If you acquired them at different times/prices, you can choose which tax lots to sell to maximize your tax benefits. Most brokerages now let you specify which lots you want to sell rather than using the default FIFO (first in, first out) method. This could make a significant difference in your total realized losses depending on your specific situation.

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Lourdes Fox

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That's a great point I hadn't considered. I acquired the shares in three different grants over about 2 years, with different purchase prices. Would I need to specifically tell my broker which lots to sell, or is that something I can handle when I file my taxes?

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Haley Stokes

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You need to specify which lots you want to sell at the time of the sale - you can't decide later when filing taxes. Most online brokerages have this option during the trade execution process, usually called "tax lot selection" or something similar. If your broker's online platform doesn't make this obvious, call their customer service before placing the trade. Once the trade settles, you typically can't change which lots were sold, so it's important to get this right the first time. This kind of specific lot identification can make a substantial difference in your tax situation.

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Asher Levin

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Have you considered not selling all at once? Maybe do a portion this year and more next year? Especially with that ABC stock, since you're thinking it could recover somewhat. That way you spread out the tax benefits over multiple years and don't have to realize all those losses if you still believe in the company long-term. Just a thought.

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Serene Snow

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This is good advice. You can offset up to $3k of ordinary income per year with capital losses beyond what you use to offset gains. So if OP doesn't need to offset all $87k in gains this year, they could realize some losses now and carry the rest forward.

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Mei-Ling Chen

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Quick tip about Schedule B that might help: If you're using tax software (TurboTax, H&R Block, etc.), you usually don't need to worry about this level of detail. When you enter the 1099-DIV information, the software automatically creates Schedule B if your dividends exceed $1,500. Just input "Vanguard Brokerage Account" and the total from Box 1a, and you're good to go. The software handles all the form creation and filing for you. I've been doing this for years with my Vanguard brokerage account with no issues.

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Does this apply to FreeTaxUSA too? I switched from TurboTax this year to save money, but I'm worried the cheaper software might not handle these details correctly.

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Mei-Ling Chen

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Yes, FreeTaxUSA handles Schedule B the same way. I actually switched to FreeTaxUSA two years ago after using TurboTax for over a decade. Their interface for entering 1099-DIV information is straightforward - you just enter "Vanguard Brokerage Account" as the payer name and the total amount from Box 1a. The software will automatically generate Schedule B if you're over the $1,500 threshold. FreeTaxUSA is actually quite robust for most tax situations, especially for investments. The only real difference I've noticed is that the interface is a bit more streamlined, but all the functionality is there.

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Aiden O'Connor

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Just wanted to add that this is a common "issue" with most brokerage accounts, not just Vanguard. My Fidelity and Schwab accounts both provide consolidated 1099-DIVs for brokerage accounts. It's actually a feature, not a problem - imagine if you had 25+ holdings and had to list each one separately on Schedule B! The IRS only cares that the total matches what the brokerage reported. They don't need or want an itemized list of every single mutual fund or stock that paid you dividends within a single brokerage account.

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That makes sense! My sister has about 8 different funds, so I can see how that would get unwieldy. Sounds like this is standard practice and not something unique to Vanguard. Appreciate everyone's helpful responses - this has been really educational for both of us!

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Aiden O'Connor

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Exactly! And if your sister has multiple brokerage accounts, she would list each brokerage separately on Schedule B. For example, if she has Vanguard and Fidelity, she would have two entries - one for each brokerage with their respective totals from Box 1a of each 1099-DIV. The IRS matches these totals with what each institution reports, not the individual holdings within each account.

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