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I've been using Cash App Taxes for two years now and overall it's been solid for my situation. The biggest advantage is obviously that it's completely free - no hidden fees or upsells like you get with other services. The interface is pretty intuitive and it imported my W-2 and 1099 info without issues. One thing to consider is the customer support limitation that others mentioned. Last year I had a question about reporting some freelance income and it took forever to get help. The FAQ section covers basics but if you run into anything unusual, you're pretty much on your own. Also worth noting - if you're used to TurboTax's extensive error checking and advice features, Cash App is more bare-bones. It'll catch obvious mistakes but doesn't provide the same level of guidance on tax optimization strategies. For straightforward returns though, it gets the job done and saves you a good chunk of money.
Thanks for sharing your experience! I'm in a similar boat coming from TurboTax and looking to save on fees. Quick question - when you mention the error checking is more basic, did you ever run into any issues where Cash App missed something that caused problems with the IRS later? I'm a bit nervous about switching from a more robust system, but the cost savings are really appealing.
I've been using Cash App Taxes for the past year after switching from TurboTax, and honestly it's been a game changer for my wallet. The free filing for both federal and state saved me about $120 compared to what I was paying before. The interface is surprisingly smooth - it walks you through everything step by step just like the paid services. I was able to handle my W-2, some 1099-MISC income from side work, and student loan interest deduction without any issues. The refund hit my account in about 10 days which was faster than I expected. My only real complaint is the limited help when you get stuck. I had a question about reporting some cryptocurrency transactions and basically had to figure it out myself since their support resources are pretty thin. If you have a complex tax situation, you might want to stick with a paid service for the extra guidance. But for most people with straightforward taxes, Cash App Taxes does exactly what you need it to do without the hefty fees. Definitely worth trying if you're looking to save money on tax prep.
That's really helpful to hear about your experience! The $120 savings definitely catches my attention. I'm curious about the crypto transaction issue you mentioned - were you eventually able to figure out how to report it correctly through Cash App? I have some basic crypto trades from this year and want to make sure I don't mess anything up. Also, did you feel confident that everything was filed accurately even without the extensive review features that TurboTax has?
I'm just curious - has anyone tried using something other than straight-line depreciation for vehicles? Maybe accelerated depreciation methods or even Section 179? I know Section 179 has those luxury auto limits, but wondering if there's any advantage to front-loading the depreciation if you know you'll convert to personal use later?
I tried Section 179 for a business vehicle a few years ago, and it bit me hard when I converted it to personal use early. Had to recapture a ton of depreciation in a single year, which pushed me into a higher tax bracket. If you're pretty sure you'll convert to personal use within a few years, straight-line is usually safer from a tax planning perspective. Accelerated methods front-load your deductions but increase your recapture exposure.
Great question about BMW M5 depreciation! One thing to consider that hasn't been fully addressed is the luxury auto depreciation limits under IRC Section 280F. For 2024, the first-year limit is $12,200 (or $20,200 with bonus depreciation), then $19,500, $11,700, and $6,960 for subsequent years. Since you're looking at an $82,000 BMW, these limits will significantly impact your depreciation schedule regardless of whether you use straight-line or accelerated methods. You won't actually be able to take $16,400 per year - you'll be limited to much lower amounts. This actually works in your favor for conversion planning! The luxury limits reduce your depreciation recapture exposure when you eventually convert to personal use. Just make sure to track your business use percentage carefully with a mileage log - the IRS is particularly strict about vehicle documentation. Also, consider the timing of your conversion. If you convert mid-year, you'll need to prorate the depreciation and carefully document the exact conversion date and vehicle condition. The Section 280F limits make the math more complex but generally reduce your overall tax risk.
This is incredibly helpful information about the luxury auto limits! I had no idea Section 280F would cap my depreciation so significantly. So if I understand correctly, even though the car costs $82,000, I'd only be able to depreciate about $12,200 the first year instead of the $16,400 I calculated using straight-line over 5 years? Does this mean it would actually take much longer than 5 years to fully depreciate the vehicle for business purposes? And would these same limits apply if I had chosen Section 179 or bonus depreciation instead of straight-line? I'm also wondering - when you mention tracking business use percentage with a mileage log, does that mean I need to maintain detailed records even if I'm using the vehicle 100% for business initially? What specific documentation does the IRS typically look for during audits?
Something nobody's mentioned yet - make sure you're tracking ALL your expenses for these gig jobs! Even if you're under the self-employment tax threshold, you can still deduct business expenses against that income. I do food delivery part time and deduct: - Mileage (this is the big one) - Portion of phone bill - Hot bags/delivery equipment - Phone mount for car - Portion of car insurance Don't leave money on the table by just reporting the income without the expenses!
Can you really deduct part of your phone bill and car insurance? I've been doing DoorDash for 2 years and never knew this. How do you calculate what percentage to deduct?
Yes, you can absolutely deduct portions of both! For your phone bill, you calculate the percentage of time you use your phone for business purposes. If you're actively doing deliveries about 20% of the time you use your phone, you can deduct 20% of your monthly phone bill. For car insurance, it's trickier but doable. You'd need to track your business miles vs. total miles driven for the year, then apply that percentage to your insurance premiums. So if 30% of your driving was for delivery work, you could potentially deduct 30% of your car insurance. Just make sure you keep good records and can justify your percentages if the IRS ever asks. The key is being reasonable and having documentation to back up your calculations.
Just wanted to add my experience as someone who's been doing multiple gig apps for 3 years now. You're absolutely right to be concerned about reporting everything correctly! A few quick tips that might help: - Keep a simple spreadsheet throughout the year tracking income from each app, even the small amounts - Take screenshots of your earnings summaries in each app before the year ends (sometimes they purge old data) - Don't forget you can also deduct things like hand sanitizer, masks, and cleaning supplies you buy specifically for delivery work One thing I learned the hard way - even though Instacart didn't send you a 1099-NEC, they still reported your earnings to the IRS if you made over $600 total across ALL their services (including tips). So they might have your income on file even without sending you paperwork. The good news is that reporting gig income gets way easier after your first year once you know what to expect. Just be thorough this first time and you'll be set up for success going forward!
This is really helpful advice! I had no idea about the screenshot tip - that's smart thinking ahead. Quick question though - you mentioned Instacart might still report earnings over $600 total including tips. Does that mean if I made $355 in delivery payments but got like $300 in tips through the app, they would have reported the full $655 to the IRS even though I didn't get a 1099? Also, do you happen to know if there's a difference in how cash tips vs app tips get reported? Sometimes customers tip cash and I'm wondering if I need to track those separately.
Has anyone here actually compared the paperwork requirements between SEP-IRA and Solo 401(k) for an S-Corp? I keep hearing Solo 401(k) is better for contribution limits but worried about extra compliance headaches.
I've managed both for my one-person S-Corp. SEP-IRA is definitely simpler - basically just one form to establish and annual contributions are straightforward. A Solo 401(k) requires more paperwork upfront (plan documents, etc.) and after your plan assets exceed $250k, you have to file Form 5500-EZ annually which is a pain. That said, I still switched to Solo 401(k) because the much higher contribution limits were worth the extra hassle in my case. I also liked having loan provisions and Roth options with the Solo 401(k). Most major brokerages now offer prototype Solo 401(k) plans that simplify the setup process.
Great question about S-Corp retirement contributions! I went through this exact same analysis last year with my single-member S-Corp. Here's what I learned that might help: You're absolutely right that you can contribute much more than 10%. With your $85,000 salary, you could max out at about $21,250 with the SEP-IRA (25% of compensation). However, I'd strongly recommend looking into a Solo 401(k) instead - it would let you contribute around $44,250 total ($23,000 employee deferral + ~$21,250 employer contribution). One thing to consider: since you're generating $120K in profits but only taking $85K salary, you might want to evaluate if increasing your salary slightly could boost your retirement contributions. Yes, you'll pay more payroll taxes, but the additional tax-deferred savings often outweigh the extra FICA costs. Also, at 42, you're actually in a good position to catch up! You'll get catch-up contributions starting at 50 (additional $7,500 for 401k), and with your strong business income, you have time to build substantial retirement savings. The key is making sure your salary remains "reasonable compensation" for your industry. Since you mentioned graphic design, $85K sounds reasonable, but you might have room to optimize the salary/distribution split for maximum retirement contributions.
This is really helpful, thank you! I'm curious about the salary optimization part you mentioned. When you say "evaluate if increasing your salary slightly could boost retirement contributions," how do you calculate the break-even point? For example, if I increased my salary from $85K to $95K, I'd pay an extra $1,530 in FICA taxes (15.3% on the additional $10K). But I could then contribute an extra $2,500 to retirement (25% of the additional $10K). At my tax bracket, that $2,500 deduction would save me about $925 in income taxes. So net effect would be paying $605 more in taxes ($1,530 - $925) to put away $2,500 more for retirement. Is that the right way to think about it? And how do you make sure the higher salary still passes the "reasonable compensation" test?
Clarissa Flair
This thread has been incredibly helpful! I was in a similar situation and was completely overthinking this. I had $9,500 in property taxes and $3,200 in state income taxes last year, so I was right at the $10,000 SALT cap with $2,700 of my state income taxes actually being deductible. When I got a $800 state tax refund this year, I initially panicked thinking the whole amount was taxable. But after reading through all these explanations, I realized that since only $2,700 of my state income taxes provided a federal benefit, and my refund was less than that amount, the full $800 refund is taxable income. The key insight for me was understanding that it's not about whether you hit the SALT cap or not - it's about which specific taxes within that cap actually gave you a federal deduction. In my case, both my property taxes AND a portion of my state income taxes fit under the $10k limit, so getting a refund on those state income taxes does create taxable income. Thanks everyone for breaking this down so clearly! The IRS worksheet suddenly makes a lot more sense now.
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Kristin Frank
ā¢This is exactly the kind of real-world example that helps clarify the concept! Your calculation is spot-on - with $9,500 property tax and $3,200 state income tax, you got the full federal benefit from $2,700 of your state income taxes (the portion that fit under the $10k SALT cap along with your property taxes). Since your $800 refund is less than that $2,700 amount that actually reduced your federal taxes, the entire refund is indeed taxable income. I think what trips people up initially is thinking the SALT cap makes ALL state tax refunds non-taxable, when really it's much more nuanced than that. You have to trace back which specific portions of your state taxes actually provided a federal deduction benefit. Your breakdown really demonstrates how to work through that analysis step by step. It's also a good reminder that even if you're "close to" or "right at" the SALT cap, you might still have gotten meaningful federal tax benefits from your state income tax payments - unlike someone whose property taxes alone maxed out the cap entirely.
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Oliver Cheng
This is such a helpful discussion! I was completely confused about this same issue until I worked through it step by step. For Emma's original question with $28,500 itemized vs $25,100 standard deduction - the $1,200 state refund taxability really depends on the breakdown of that SALT deduction. If you can find your prior year Schedule A (line 5a for state income taxes and line 5b for property taxes), that will show you exactly what went into your $10k SALT cap. The formula is basically: Look at how much of your state income taxes actually fit under the SALT cap after accounting for property taxes. That's the maximum amount of any state refund that could be taxable. Then compare that to your overall itemized vs standard deduction benefit to see if you actually got a federal tax advantage. One thing I learned the hard way - keep good records of what types of state/local taxes you paid because you'll need those details when refunds come in the following year. The IRS forms don't always make it obvious how to trace this back, especially when you're dealing with estimated payments, withholding, and property tax installments all mixing together. It's definitely worth getting this right because the difference between reporting the full refund as taxable versus the correct partial amount can be significant on your tax bill!
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AstroExplorer
ā¢This is exactly what I needed to hear! I'm dealing with this for the first time and was getting overwhelmed by all the different scenarios people mention online. Your point about keeping good records is so important - I'm already organizing my 2024 tax documents better so I don't have to dig through everything next year when refunds come in. One thing that's still not totally clear to me - if you made estimated quarterly payments for state taxes, does that change how the calculation works? Like if I paid $3,000 in quarterly estimates but my actual liability was only $2,500, so I get a $500 refund, is the taxability still based on whatever portion of that $2,500 actual liability gave me a federal benefit under the SALT cap? I'm trying to wrap my head around whether the IRS cares about what you actually paid versus what you actually owed when determining the tax benefit piece of this puzzle.
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