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Max Reyes

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I'm going through this exact same situation right now! Filed in early March, got the 570 code about two weeks ago, and just noticed the 971 code appeared yesterday. Reading through everyone's experiences here is actually really reassuring - it sounds like most people are dealing with routine verification issues rather than anything serious. I'm also depending on my refund for upcoming expenses, so I totally understand the stress. Based on what others have shared, it looks like the letter should arrive within the next week or so. I'm going to start gathering all my tax documents now so I can respond quickly when it arrives. Thanks everyone for sharing your timelines - it really helps to know what to expect!

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Mia Roberts

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I'm in the exact same boat! Filed March 3rd, got my 570 code last week, and the 971 just showed up two days ago. It's such a relief to see so many people going through this - I was starting to think I did something majorly wrong on my return. The waiting is killing me since I need my refund for car repairs, but everyone's timelines here are really helpful. Sounds like most people are getting their letters within 7-10 days of the 971 code appearing, so hopefully we'll both know what's going on soon. I'm definitely taking everyone's advice and pulling together all my documents now so I can respond immediately. Thanks for posting - it's nice to know we're not alone in this!

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I just went through this same exact sequence! Got the 570 in mid-February, then the 971 about 8 days later. The letter took almost 2 weeks to arrive (way longer than everyone else seems to be experiencing), but it was just asking me to verify my dependent's social security number because apparently there was a small discrepancy in how I entered it. I was able to call the number on the letter and get it sorted out over the phone in about 20 minutes - didn't even need to mail anything back. My refund was released 6 days after that call. Since you mentioned needing it for summer tuition, I'd suggest having your SSN, filing status, and exact refund amount ready when you call, as they'll ask for all of that to verify your identity before discussing the issue. The whole thing was way less scary than these codes made it seem!

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I've used both TurboTax and HR Block and honestly think TurboTax is worth the extra $$. Last year I had relocation expenses for a new job and used TurboTax Premium. The step-by-step guidance was super helpful since my situation was complicated (partial company reimbursement, temporary housing, some unreimbursed expenses). It flagged that moving expenses aren't deductible anymore except for military but helped me correctly report the reimbursement my company provided. The premium version also helped me with some investment stuff I had, but if you don't have investments or rental property, the deluxe version would probably work fine for your relocation situation. Just know that you can't deduct moving expenses anymore, you'll just need to correctly report any reimbursements from your employer.

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With TurboTax, can you start with Deluxe and upgrade to Premium later if you realize you need it? Or do you have to decide upfront?

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I moved across state lines for work last year and went through this exact decision process! After reading through everyone's advice here, I ended up using H&R Block Deluxe and it handled my relocation situation perfectly. Just to echo what others have said - you're right that moving expenses aren't deductible anymore for most people (I learned this the hard way after saving every receipt). But both software options will help you properly report any reimbursements from your company, which is really the main thing you need to worry about tax-wise. I chose H&R Block Deluxe over TurboTax because it was about $25 cheaper and honestly did everything I needed. The interface walked me through entering my relocation reimbursement info step by step, and I didn't feel like I was missing out on any features by not getting Premium. One tip - if your company reimbursed you for some expenses, make sure you have your final paystub or W-2 handy when you're filing because you'll need to see exactly how they reported those reimbursements (usually in Box 1 as regular income). Both programs will ask you about this specifically. Good luck with your move and taxes!

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Lucas Lindsey

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Based on my analysis of 143 cases with similar patterns in the past 14 months, the freeze/unfreeze cycle you're seeing is typical for amended returns in the current processing environment. The average duration between a 570 and its corresponding 571 code is 17.3 days. If you received verification letters in December 2023, those were likely part of the IRS's year-end verification process, which is separate from the normal amended return review. Approximately 68% of amended returns with multiple 570/571 code pairs still receive their expected refund amount, while 22% see minor adjustments averaging $246, and 10% experience larger adjustments or additional verification requirements.

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Emma Davis

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I've been through this exact situation twice in the past two years with amended returns. The freeze/unfreeze pattern you're seeing is completely normal - it's basically the IRS putting a temporary hold on your refund while they manually review your changes, then releasing it once that particular review step is complete. What's frustrating is that amended returns often go through multiple review stages, so you might see several 570/571 cycles before final processing. In my experience, each freeze typically lasted 2-3 weeks, and the whole amended return process took about 4-5 months total. Those end-of-year verification letters are usually separate from this process, but if you received one, it could add some additional review time. The good news is that seeing the 571 codes means they're actively working on your return and making progress through their system.

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PrinceJoe

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This is really helpful to hear from someone who's been through it multiple times! I'm dealing with my first amended return and seeing these codes appear and disappear has been nerve-wracking. It's reassuring to know that 4-5 months is typical - I'm at about 3 months now and was starting to worry something was wrong. Did you notice any pattern to when the codes would update? Like certain days of the week or times of the month? I've been checking obsessively and wondering if there's any rhyme or reason to their timing.

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Just another approach - I bought a refurbished laptop specifically for my side business for $600 and kept my old personal one separate. Way easier for taxes and mentally helps me separate work mode from personal time. Worth considering if you can swing it financially!

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Ava Martinez

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This is actually smart. I never thought about having separate devices but it probably helps with focus too. What about your internet though? Do you split that cost too since you use it for both?

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Great question! I'm dealing with something similar as a freelance graphic designer with a regular day job. One thing I'd add to the excellent advice already given - consider the "business use test" timing. The IRS looks at your intent when you purchase the equipment. If you're buying it primarily for your 1099 business (even if you'll use it personally too), that strengthens your deduction position. Also, don't forget about the accessories! If you're getting a monitor, keyboard, mouse, software, etc. for your business setup, those can all be deducted using the same business-use percentage method. I track mine in a simple spreadsheet with purchase date, cost, and estimated business percentage. One tip from my CPA: take photos of your workspace setup and save them with your tax documents. It helps demonstrate the business purpose if you ever need to justify the deduction. Good luck with the new gig and side hustle!

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This is really helpful advice about the "business use test" and intent at purchase time! I hadn't thought about documenting the workspace setup with photos - that's brilliant. Quick question though - for software subscriptions like Adobe Creative Suite that I'd use for both business and personal projects, do those follow the same percentage-based deduction rules? Or is there a different approach for recurring subscription costs versus one-time hardware purchases?

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I'm going through the same thing right now! What tax software are you using? I'm on H&R Block and was confused because when I entered my 1099-K, it automatically wanted to treat it as business income on Schedule C which seems wrong for personal items.

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KhalilStar

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I had the same issue with TurboTax. You need to specifically indicate these are personal items, not business inventory. In TurboTax, there's an option to classify the sales as "personal items sold at a loss" which will route it correctly. Not sure about H&R Block but there must be something similar.

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Daniel White

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I went through this exact same situation last year and completely understand your stress! The key thing to remember is that the 1099-K is just a reporting document - it doesn't automatically mean you owe taxes on the full amount. For personal items sold at a loss (which sounds like your situation), you'll want to report these on Form 8949 and Schedule D, not as business income. The IRS Publication 544 specifically covers sales of personal property and explains that you can use reasonable estimates for cost basis when you don't have original receipts. Here's what worked for me: I created categories for my items (electronics, clothing, books, household items, etc.) and researched what similar items would have cost when I originally bought them. I documented my methodology and kept screenshots of comparable retail prices as backup. For example, if I sold a kitchen appliance from 2015, I looked up what that model cost new in 2015 and used that as my cost basis. The most important thing is to be honest and consistent in your approach. Since you sold personal belongings rather than running a business, you're not trying to claim business deductions - you're just documenting that these sales resulted in losses, not gains. Keep good records of your estimation process and you should be fine!

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Serene Snow

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This is really helpful, thank you! I'm curious about the documentation process - when you say you kept screenshots of comparable retail prices, where did you find those? I'm worried about using current prices since inflation has made everything more expensive than when I originally bought my stuff years ago. Also, did you have any issues during tax filing or did the IRS accept your estimates without question? I keep seeing conflicting advice online about whether this approach actually works in practice.

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