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I'm in the exact same situation! Filed January 25th with EITC and still stuck on "Return Received" with Tax Topic 152. It's so frustrating checking every day and seeing zero movement, but reading these comments actually helps knowing we're all in the same boat. The PATH Act is such a pain - I get why they need to prevent fraud but it really does hit the people who need their refunds most. At least Tax Topic 152 seems to be a good sign that everything is processing normally. Fingers crossed we all see some movement soon! 🤞
Same here! Filed Jan 23rd and it's like watching paint dry 😩 At least we're all suffering together lol. The fact that so many of us have the exact same status with TT152 makes me feel way less paranoid about something being wrong. Really hoping we see some action after mid-February!
Don't forget about the year of disposition too! The year you convert a property back to personal use or sell it has special depreciation rules. You generally only get half the annual depreciation in the year you place it in service AND in the year you dispose of it (the "mid-month convention").
I thought the half-year convention only applied to certain types of business property, not residential rentals? Aren't rental properties subject to the mid-month convention instead?
You're absolutely right @ac6dc0772264! Residential rental properties use the mid-month convention, not the half-year convention. For residential rentals (27.5 years), you get a partial month's depreciation in the first month you place it in service and in the month you dispose of it. So if you started renting in November, you'd get 1.5 months of depreciation that first year (November and half of December). Thanks for catching that - it's an important distinction that could affect the Form 3115 calculations.
Great information in this thread! Just to summarize the key points for @dcac7ecca8da: 1. Your rental property conversion date is November 2014 when tenants moved in, not when you moved out 2. Form 3115 is definitely the right approach - don't amend prior returns 3. You'll get the catch-up depreciation deduction on your 2025 return, but no refunds for prior years 4. The IRS will still treat you as having taken depreciation when you sell (even though you didn't), so filing Form 3115 now prevents you from losing those deductions entirely One additional tip: make sure to keep good records of when you converted the property to rental use and any improvements you've made since then. The IRS may ask for documentation if they have questions about your Form 3115. Also, since you mentioned this is a military move situation, you might want to check if there are any special provisions that apply to your situation, though the standard depreciation rules should still apply to your rental property. Good luck with your filing!
This is such a helpful summary! I'm actually in a very similar situation - military relocation led to unexpected landlord status. One quick question though: when you mention keeping records of the conversion date, what specific documentation should we be looking for? I have the lease agreement from November 2014, but is there anything else the IRS typically wants to see to prove when rental use began? Also, @dcac7ecca8da, have you already started working on your Form 3115 or are you still gathering information? I'm debating whether to tackle this myself or get professional help given how many years of missed depreciation we're talking about.
I've been through this exact same situation! As a fellow Pennsylvania homeowner, I can confirm that sales tax on warranty deductibles is indeed legal here. Pennsylvania taxes most repair services to tangible personal property, which includes home appliances and systems. The inconsistency you're experiencing is super common because warranty companies typically contract with different local service providers for different types of repairs. Each contractor may handle the tax collection differently - some build it into their rates, others collect it separately, and some might not collect it at all (though they're supposed to). One thing that helped me was asking my warranty company for a list of their "preferred contractors" in my area and specifically asking about their tax policies when I call to schedule service. That way I know what to expect on the bill. You might also want to keep records of which contractors charged tax vs. which didn't - if you ever get audited, you'll want to show you paid the proper taxes when they were collected. The $6.50 in tax on a $100 deductible sounds about right for PA's sales tax rate. Welcome to homeownership - it's always something new to learn!
This is really helpful, thanks! The idea of asking for a list of preferred contractors and their tax policies upfront is brilliant - would save me from being surprised at payment time. I never thought about keeping records for potential audit purposes either. Do you happen to know if there's a way to verify if a contractor is properly licensed to collect sales tax in PA? I'm wondering if some of the contractors who didn't charge tax might not be handling it correctly on their end.
Great question about verifying contractor licensing! In Pennsylvania, you can check if a contractor is properly registered to collect sales tax through the PA Department of Revenue's online business search tool. Just search for their business name or license number - legitimate contractors should have a valid PA sales tax license. However, here's an important distinction: even if a contractor doesn't collect sales tax from you at the time of service, that doesn't necessarily mean they're doing anything wrong. Some contractors pay the sales tax directly to the state themselves and build it into their service rates, rather than collecting it separately from customers. This is called "absorbing the tax" and it's completely legal. The real issue would be if NO sales tax is being paid to the state at all on these transactions. But as the customer, that's not really your responsibility to police - it's between the contractor and the state revenue department. For your own records though, I'd definitely recommend keeping detailed receipts showing which contractors charged you tax separately and which didn't. If you're ever questioned about it, you can show you paid tax when it was collected and relied on the contractors to handle it properly when it wasn't.
This is incredibly useful information! I had no idea contractors could "absorb the tax" and build it into their rates - that totally explains the inconsistency I've been seeing. It makes me feel better knowing that as long as I'm paying what the contractor asks for and keeping good records, I'm probably covered from a compliance standpoint. The PA Department of Revenue search tool sounds like a great resource too. Thanks for breaking this down so clearly - definitely saving this info for future warranty claims!
Another thing to consider with the EIC look back provision is that if your filing status changed between 2023 and 2024, this can dramatically affect how the calculation works. I went from filing Single in 2023 to Head of Household in 2024 after getting custody of my nephew. When I used the look back provision, it used my 2023 income but with my new 2024 filing status and dependents, which actually gave me a much higher EIC than either year would have individually. Tax software doesn't explain this well at all - it just asks if you want to use last year's income without showing how the calculation changes.
Would this work the other way too? I went from Head of Household in 2023 to Married Filing Jointly in 2024. My income dropped a lot but my husband has decent income. Would using my higher 2023 income with my new filing status be beneficial or harmful for EIC?
When you change from Head of Household to Married Filing Jointly, it completely changes your EIC calculation because now you're combining both incomes. The EIC phase-out thresholds are different for each filing status. In your situation, using your higher 2023 income might actually be harmful if your combined 2024 income with your husband already puts you near or in the phase-out range for the credit. The look back only applies to earned income, not filing status - so it would use your 2023 income but with your current Married Filing Jointly status.
Don't forget that the look back provision ONLY applies to earned income for calculating the EIC and Additional Child Tax Credit. It doesn't affect other parts of your tax return. I made this mistake by thinking my entire tax situation would be calculated using my 2023 income, but that's not how it works. Only the specific credits get recalculated - everything else (standard deduction, tax brackets, other credits) still uses your actual 2024 income and status.
This clarifies so much! So if I have investment income in 2024 that I didn't have in 2023, that could affect my EIC eligibility even if I use the look back for my earned income?
Exactly right! Investment income limits still apply using your actual 2024 amounts. For 2024, if your investment income exceeds $11,000, you're completely disqualified from the EIC regardless of what earned income you use with the look back provision. This is one of those gotchas that can really trip people up - you might think using your lower 2023 earned income will help, but if you sold stocks or had other investment income in 2024 that puts you over the limit, you won't qualify for EIC at all.
Victoria Charity
Why don't you just claim exempt? I did that when I was making $16/hr and got way more in my checks. You can always pay what you owe at the end of the year if needed.
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Victoria Charity
•Maybe for some people, but I've done it for years and just save a bit from each check to cover what I might owe. I hate giving the government an interest-free loan all year. Would rather have my money now when I need it. Besides, at $17/hr, OP probably qualifies for earned income credit and other things that might offset what they owe. The tax system is designed to help lower-income workers.
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Miranda Singer
•@Victoria Charity I understand wanting more money in your paycheck right now, but claiming exempt when you re'not eligible can lead to serious consequences. The IRS can penalize you for underpayment, and at $17/hr with two jobs, OP likely will owe taxes at the end of the year. A better approach would be to use the IRS withholding calculator or adjust the W-4 properly to reduce overwithholding without going to zero. That way you get more money in your checks but still cover your tax liability throughout the year. The goal should be to break even at tax time, not owe a large amount you might not be able to pay.
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Anastasia Sokolov
Hey Olivia! I totally understand your frustration - that first paycheck shock is real! Based on what you're describing, it sounds like your withholding might be set too high for your actual situation. A few things to consider: First, make sure this paycheck was for a full pay period and not just partial days when you started. Second, with two jobs, the withholding can get tricky because each employer doesn't know about your other income. Here's what I'd suggest while you wait for payroll to get back to you: 1. Look at your pay stub to see exactly what's being withheld (federal income tax vs. FICA vs. state, etc.) 2. Check if you filled out your W-4 correctly - especially the multiple jobs section 3. Consider using the IRS Tax Withholding Estimator online to see what your withholding should actually be At $17/hr as your main job plus part-time work, you're probably in the 12% federal tax bracket, so 20% withholding does seem excessive. The good news is this is totally fixable with a new W-4! You might be able to get significantly more in your take-home pay while still covering your actual tax liability. Hang in there - once you get this sorted out, your budget should work much better!
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