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Has anyone had the IRS apply their overpayment to a state tax debt? I heard they can do that but not sure if its automatic or if you have to request it?
The IRS doesn't automatically apply federal tax overpayments to state tax debts. Federal and state tax systems are separate. However, if you owe other federal debts (including federal student loans), the Treasury Offset Program might intercept your federal refund to pay those debts.
I went through something very similar last year with back taxes from 2021. The IRS will definitely refund any overpayment automatically - no special forms needed. What helped me was creating an online account at irs.gov so I could track the status of my payment and see exactly how they calculated the penalties and interest. One thing to keep in mind: if you made the payment recently, it can take up to 6-8 weeks for them to fully process everything and issue the refund. They have to apply your payment, calculate the exact amount owed as of the payment date, and then process the overpayment. You should receive a notice explaining their calculations before the refund arrives. Also, double-check that you don't have any other outstanding federal debts (like student loans) because they might offset your refund against those before sending you the money. Good luck!
Thanks for sharing your experience! That's really helpful to know about the 6-8 week timeframe. I'm definitely going to set up that online account - I didn't realize you could track payment status that way. Quick question: when you say they calculate penalties and interest "as of the payment date," does that mean if I paid a bit early compared to when they actually process it, I might get even more back since the interest would be less?
Is there a cutoff on how much profit is tax free? Im in a similar situation but made about $175k on my house that I lived in for 3 years. Will all of that be exempt?
The exemption is $250,000 if you're single and $500,000 if you're married filing jointly. So if you made $175k and lived there for 3 years, you should be able to exclude the entire gain from your income (assuming you meet the other requirements like it being your primary residence).
Great question about the primary residence exemption! You're absolutely right that there's a 2-out-of-5-years rule, and you definitely qualify. Since you lived in the house as your primary residence for nearly 5 years (2019-2023), you've more than met the residency requirement. The fact that you're renting instead of buying another home immediately doesn't matter at all for the exemption - there's no requirement to reinvest the proceeds. However, since you made $320k in profit, you'll want to consider the exemption limits: $250k if you're single, or $500k if you're married filing jointly. If you're single, you'd owe capital gains tax on $70k of your profit ($320k - $250k exemption). Don't forget to add any qualifying home improvements you made during ownership to your cost basis, as this could reduce your taxable gain. Things like major renovations, new HVAC systems, or structural improvements can be added to what you originally paid for the house. Also remember that since you owned the home for more than a year, any taxable portion will be subject to long-term capital gains rates (typically 0%, 15%, or 20% depending on your income level), which are generally more favorable than ordinary income tax rates.
This is really helpful! I'm in a similar boat but wondering about timing - if I'm planning to sell in early 2025, should I wait until I file my 2025 taxes (due in 2026) to deal with this, or do I need to make estimated payments during 2025? Also, does the state where the property is located matter for the exemption, or is this purely federal?
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Just went through this nightmare with SBTPG myself this year! My refund was delayed 18 days and their customer service was absolutely terrible. Here's what I'm doing differently next year: I'm switching to FreeTaxUSA and paying the small fee upfront ($14.99 for state filing) to get direct deposit straight to my bank account. No third-party banks, no transfer fees, no delays. Another option if you want to stick with Jackson Hewitt - ask them specifically about their "no bank product" option where you pay fees upfront. Some locations don't advertise this but they all offer it. You just have to be very clear that you want direct deposit to YOUR account, not through any refund transfer service. The key is being prepared to pay those prep fees out of pocket instead of having them deducted from your refund. It's worth it to avoid the SBTPG headache!
I'd strongly recommend going the personal donation route rather than trying to transfer it to your business first. As others have mentioned, the IRS takes a dim view of last-minute asset transfers just to claim business deductions. For your $4,000-5,000 boat, you'll need Form 8283 and a qualified appraisal since it's close to the $5,000 threshold. Don't try to lowball the value to avoid the appraisal requirement - that's a red flag for audits. Get a marine surveyor to give you a proper fair market value assessment. Also, keep detailed records of the boat's condition with photos and any maintenance records you have. The IRS will want to see that your valuation is reasonable given the actual state of the vessel. Since you mentioned it's "falling apart," make sure your appraisal reflects that reality. One last tip - if the charity ends up selling the boat for significantly less than your claimed value (which often happens with boats in poor condition), your deduction will be limited to the actual sale price, not your appraised value.
Great advice about the appraisal! I'm curious though - if the boat is right at that $4,000-5,000 range, is it worth getting the appraisal even if it might come back lower than $5,000? I mean, if the appraiser says it's only worth $4,500, then I wouldn't have needed the appraisal in the first place, right? But then I'd be out the appraisal fee for nothing. How do people usually handle this situation?
You raise a good point about the appraisal dilemma. Here's what I'd suggest - get a rough estimate from a marine surveyor first (many will give you a ballpark figure over the phone or with photos for a small fee). If they think it's likely under $5,000, you can proceed without the formal appraisal. But if there's any chance it could be valued at $5,000 or more, get the formal appraisal. The cost of the appraisal (usually $200-400) is worth it to avoid potential IRS issues later. Plus, having professional documentation of the boat's poor condition will support your deduction amount even if it comes in under $5,000. Better to be over-prepared than face questions during an audit.
Just wanted to add something that might help with the documentation side of things - make sure you get a receipt from the charity that includes specific language about the donation. The IRS requires the receipt to state whether you received any goods or services in return for your donation (which should be "no" for a straight boat donation). Also, since you mentioned the boat is in poor condition, document everything thoroughly with dated photos showing the specific issues - hull damage, engine problems, interior wear, etc. This will be crucial if the IRS ever questions your valuation. I learned this the hard way when I donated an old RV and didn't have enough documentation of its condition. One more thing - if you do go the personal donation route and itemize, remember that charitable deductions are subject to AGI limitations. Non-cash donations to public charities are generally limited to 50% of your adjusted gross income, with any excess carrying forward for up to 5 years. Given your boat's value, this probably won't be an issue, but it's worth keeping in mind.
This is really helpful documentation advice! I'm actually dealing with a similar situation with an old motorcycle I want to donate. Quick question - when you say "dated photos," do these need to be timestamped by the camera, or is it enough to just take them close to the donation date? Also, did you end up having any issues with the RV donation despite the documentation problems, or did it just make you nervous about potential audits?
For dated photos, you don't need fancy camera timestamps - just taking them close to the donation date is fine. Most phones automatically embed date metadata anyway, which the IRS can access if needed. The key is being able to prove the photos represent the item's condition at the time of donation. Regarding my RV situation - I didn't get audited, but when I realized how little documentation I had, I got pretty anxious about it for the next couple years. The charity sold it for much less than I claimed, which limited my deduction anyway, but I learned my lesson about proper documentation. Now I treat any non-cash donation like I'm going to be audited, because the penalties and interest aren't worth the risk of being sloppy with paperwork. For your motorcycle donation, I'd suggest taking photos of the odometer, any mechanical issues, scratches, rust, worn tires, etc. Also keep any maintenance records you have - they help establish the vehicle's history and condition.
Brandon Parker
Just a heads up for first-time filers - make sure you keep really good records of everything! I messed up my first time filing with stock transactions because I didn't save some important confirmation emails from when I sold some random penny stocks. Also check if any of your trades were marked as "covered" vs "noncovered" on your 1099-B. Noncovered positions might not have complete basis info reported to the IRS, which means more work for you.
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Adriana Cohn
ā¢Good point about the covered vs. noncovered distinction. Also worth noting that for cryptocurrencies, virtually all transactions are currently considered "noncovered" since crypto exchanges aren't required to report basis information to the IRS yet. So for crypto, you almost always need to track your own basis.
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Ezra Beard
This is such a helpful thread! As someone who also got overwhelmed with investment tax forms this year, I wanted to add one more tip that really helped me understand the relationship between Form 8949 and Schedule D. Think of it like this: if you were reporting charitable donations, you'd list each individual donation on a detailed worksheet, then summarize the total on Schedule A. Form 8949 is like that detailed worksheet for your stock trades - every buy, every sell, with all the specifics. Schedule D is like the summary line that goes on your main return. For wash sales specifically, the IRS wants to see that detailed transaction history on Form 8949 because they need to verify that the disallowed loss was calculated correctly and that you're not trying to claim a tax benefit you shouldn't get. One thing I learned the hard way - if you have a lot of transactions, you can actually group similar ones together on Form 8949 instead of listing every single trade individually. Check the instructions for when this is allowed, as it can save you tons of time!
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