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Something nobody's mentioned yet - the Augusta Rule has limits beyond just the 14 days. If you're using a home office deduction for the same space, things get complicated. You can't double-dip on deductions for the same space. Also, the business purpose has to be legitimate. Simply calling it a "strategy meeting" won't cut it if you get audited. There needs to be a clear agenda, outcomes, and a business necessity for using the home rather than another location.

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So does this mean if I have a dedicated home office that I deduct expenses for regularly, I can't also use the Augusta Rule? Or can I just use different areas of my house?

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Dana Doyle

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Good point about the home office complication! You can still use the Augusta Rule, but you need to be strategic about it. If you have a dedicated home office that you regularly deduct, you can't use that same space for Augusta Rule rentals since you'd be double-dipping. However, you can absolutely use different areas of your house. For example, if your home office is in a spare bedroom, you could rent out your dining room, living room, or outdoor patio area for business meetings. Just make sure to clearly document which spaces are being used for each purpose and keep them separate in your records. The key is maintaining clear boundaries between your regular home office deduction and your Augusta Rule rental income. Different spaces, different tax treatments, but both can potentially be used by the same business owner.

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Luca Ferrari

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I've been following this discussion with great interest since I'm in a similar situation with my consulting LLC. One thing I want to add that hasn't been fully addressed - timing matters a lot for the Augusta Rule. You need to be careful about when you "rent" your home to your business. The rental needs to happen in the same tax year that your business deducts the expense. So if you hold a business meeting in December 2024 but don't actually pay the rental fee until January 2025, you could run into timing issues between the deduction and the income exclusion. Also, for anyone considering this strategy, remember that the 14-day limit is per tax year, not per property. If you own multiple properties and try to use the Augusta Rule on each one, you're still capped at 14 days total across all properties for the tax-free treatment. The documentation requirements everyone mentioned are absolutely critical. I learned this the hard way when my accountant pointed out that simply having meeting notes isn't enough - you need to show that using your home was necessary for the business purpose rather than just convenient.

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CosmicCadet

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What nobody's mentioned is how being a "US person" makes banking overseas a nightmare. I'm a dual US/German citizen and banks here hate dealing with US reporting requirements. Some even closed my accounts when FATCA came in! If you stop filing US taxes you might fly under the radar for years, but eventually something will trigger attention - maybe trying to move that investment, getting a large inheritance, or buying property. Then you'll face back filing for all those missing years plus penalties. The "head in sand" approach feels good short term but can be expensive long term. I tried it for 3 years and ended up paying way more to fix it than if I'd just kept filing.

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Chloe Harris

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The banking issues are no joke. I couldn't even open a retirement account in Spain because I checked the "US citizen" box on the application. Is that happening in New Zealand too?

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I'm an American living in New Zealand and can relate to your frustration! The banking situation here isn't as bad as some European countries, but it's definitely getting more complicated. Most major banks (ANZ, ASB, Westpac) will still open accounts for US citizens, but they ask a lot more questions now and some investment products are off-limits. One thing that might help with your immediate cost problem - have you looked into the IRS Volunteer Income Tax Assistance (VITA) program? They sometimes have virtual sessions specifically for expats, and it's completely free if you qualify (which you likely would based on your income level). The quality can be hit-or-miss, but it might be worth trying before paying hundreds again. Also, since you mentioned you're in Australia - the US-Australia tax treaty has some provisions that could help reduce your filing burden. Australia's superannuation system has specific treaty protections that most tax preparers don't even know about. The nuclear option of renouncing citizenship is expensive upfront ($2,350 now), but if you're truly never planning to live in the US and the annual filing costs keep adding up, it might be worth saving for over a few years. Just make sure you understand the exit tax implications first, especially with that investment account.

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Amina Toure

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Hey Malik, I see you already figured out it was an old parking ticket from 2020 through the Treasury Offset Program - that's exactly what I was going to suggest! This is super common and catches people off guard all the time. The good news is at least you know where your money went now, even if it's frustrating. For future reference, you can actually request an injured spouse allocation if you're married filing jointly and the debt belonged to your spouse before marriage. Also, some offsets can be appealed if you believe they're in error. The letter you should receive in the mail will have details about your rights and next steps if you want to dispute it. Glad you got it sorted out though - mystery solved! šŸŽ‰

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Thanks for the additional info about injured spouse allocation! I had no idea that was even a thing. Fortunately I'm single so that doesn't apply to me, but good to know for others who might be reading this thread. I'm definitely keeping an eye out for that letter in the mail - want to make sure this old parking ticket debt is actually legitimate and not some mistake. It's crazy how one forgotten ticket from 4 years ago can just suddenly appear and take your refund money! 😤

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LunarLegend

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This is such a frustrating situation but unfortunately pretty common! Based on what you've shared, since your transcript shows the full amount but you only received a partial deposit, it's most likely either a Treasury Offset (which you already confirmed with the parking ticket) or your bank holding part of the funds. Since you found out about the parking ticket offset, that explains the difference. For anyone else reading this who might have a similar issue, here are the main things to check: 1. Call Treasury Offset Program at 800-304-3107 to check for any offsets 2. Contact your bank to see if they're holding part of the deposit 3. Check if your tax preparer deducted fees from your refund 4. Look for any adjustments the IRS made to your return (though these usually show on your transcript) The silver lining is that at least you know exactly what happened now, even though losing refund money to an old debt is never fun. Make sure you get that offset notice in the mail and verify all the details are correct!

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This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm in a similar situation with my UK-based software development company - no US income but got the dreaded FATCA compliance letter from my bank last week. After reading through everyone's experiences, I'm confident that W-8BEN-E is the right form for my situation too. What really helped me understand was the explanation that this form is actually protective - it establishes that we're foreign entities without US tax obligations, rather than putting us "on the radar." One question for those who have completed this process: did anyone encounter issues with the beneficial ownership section (Part II)? My company has a somewhat complex ownership structure with multiple shareholders, and I want to make sure I'm reporting this correctly. The instructions mention reporting "substantial US owners" but since all our owners are non-US persons, I'm assuming this section might not apply to us? Thanks to everyone who shared their real-world experiences - it's made what seemed like an overwhelming compliance requirement much more manageable!

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Great question about the beneficial ownership section! I had a similar concern with my multi-shareholder setup. Since you mentioned all your owners are non-US persons, you're correct that Part II likely won't require detailed reporting. The "substantial US owners" section is specifically looking for US persons who own 10% or more of your company. If all your shareholders are non-US persons, you would typically just need to check the box indicating that there are no substantial US owners to report. However, with complex ownership structures, it's worth double-checking the specific definitions in the form instructions. Sometimes what seems straightforward can have nuances depending on how ownership is structured (direct vs indirect ownership, trusts, etc.). One thing that helped me was sketching out our ownership structure on paper first, then mapping it against the reporting requirements. Made it much clearer what needed to be disclosed versus what could be left blank. Your software development income would definitely qualify you as Active NFFE too, assuming it's more than 50% of your gross income. That classification is much more straightforward for active business operations like software development.

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Ravi Patel

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I've been following this discussion as someone who recently went through a similar process with my Irish consulting firm. Just wanted to add a few practical points that might help others: 1) **Bank communication is key** - Don't hesitate to ask your bank's compliance team specific questions about their requirements. They deal with these forms regularly and can often clarify which sections are most important for their processes. 2) **Digital vs physical submission** - Some banks prefer digital submission through their secure portals, while others still want physical copies. Check their preferred method before completing the form to avoid having to redo it in a different format. 3) **Documentation backup** - Beyond keeping a copy of the completed W-8BEN-E, I'd recommend also saving any email correspondence with your bank about the requirement. This creates a clear paper trail showing you responded to their compliance request appropriately. For those still nervous about completing this form: remember that millions of foreign businesses complete W-8BEN-E forms annually as part of routine FATCA compliance. It's become a standard part of international banking, not an exceptional circumstance. The guidance in this thread about Active vs Passive NFFE classification and the three-year validity period is spot-on. Once you complete it correctly the first time, renewals are much easier since you'll have a template of what worked.

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Caleb Stone

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Really appreciate these practical tips, especially about checking bank preferences for digital vs physical submission! I hadn't thought about that aspect but it makes total sense - the last thing you want is to complete everything perfectly only to find out they needed it in a different format. Your point about this being routine for millions of businesses is really reassuring too. Sometimes when you're dealing with IRS forms for the first time, it feels like you're in uncharted territory, but you're right that this has become standard practice in international banking. The documentation backup advice is excellent - I'll definitely be saving all the email correspondence. Having that paper trail showing you responded appropriately to compliance requests could be really valuable if any questions come up later. Thanks for sharing these real-world insights from your experience with the Irish firm. It's helpful to see the practical side of the process beyond just understanding which form to use!

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NeonNomad

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Don't forget about the SUV loophole if you've got a vehicle between 6,000-14,000 pounds! My Ford Expedition qualified and I was able to write off the entire business portion in year 1 using bonus depreciation with no luxury auto limits.

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That's not really a "loophole" - it's an intentional policy to help businesses. But you're right that heavier vehicles like SUVs, vans and trucks over 6,000 GVWR aren't subject to the same limits. Just make sure you actually need that type of vehicle for business though. I've seen people buy massive SUVs just for the tax benefit when a smaller vehicle would have worked fine.

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You're right to be confused - this is one of the most counterintuitive parts of vehicle depreciation! The key thing to understand is that for passenger vehicles under 6,000 pounds, you're subject to "luxury auto limits" regardless of which depreciation method you choose. Here's the reality: taking bonus depreciation doesn't actually increase your TOTAL depreciation over the vehicle's life - it just shifts more of it to year one. With your $42,500 car at 85% business use ($36,125 business basis), you'll eventually depreciate that full amount either way. The trade-off is timing vs. administrative burden. Bonus depreciation gets you about $8,000 more in year one ($19,200 vs $11,200 with regular MACRS), which means more cash flow now. However, you'll be stuck claiming small amounts ($6,460 annually) for potentially 8-10 years to fully depreciate the vehicle. With regular MACRS, you get less upfront but finish depreciating in about 6 years. The "right" choice depends on your cash flow needs, tax bracket stability, and whether you want to deal with tracking depreciation for a decade. Many business owners prefer the simplicity of finishing depreciation sooner, even if it means less immediate tax benefit.

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Zoe Stavros

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This is exactly the kind of clear explanation I needed! So if I'm understanding correctly, the main decision is really about cash flow timing versus administrative simplicity. Given that I'm in my first year of business and could really use the extra cash flow now, it sounds like bonus depreciation might make sense for my situation - even if it means tracking smaller amounts for more years. The $8,000 difference in year one deduction could be significant for getting my real estate business off the ground. One follow-up question though - you mentioned tax bracket stability. If I expect my income (and tax bracket) to be higher in future years, would that change the calculation at all? Would it be better to save some of those deductions for when I'm in a higher bracket?

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