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This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm actually in a very similar situation - my spouse and I are planning to purchase two EVs this year and file jointly. Reading through everyone's experiences has cleared up a lot of my confusion. One additional consideration I wanted to mention is the point-of-sale rebate option that started in 2024. Instead of waiting until tax time to claim the credit, you can now transfer it directly to the dealer for an immediate discount at purchase. This might be especially useful if you're buying two vehicles and want to reduce the upfront cost. However, I've heard that if you use the point-of-sale option and later discover you weren't actually eligible (due to income limits or vehicle eligibility changes), you'd have to pay the IRS back. So there's a bit of a trade-off between getting the money upfront versus waiting to claim it on your return when you're more certain about your final tax situation. For those of you who successfully claimed credits for two vehicles, did any of you use the point-of-sale option, or did you all wait until filing your returns? I'm trying to decide which approach makes more sense for our situation. Also, @416a9f18d66b (Aria), definitely recommend getting that written confirmation from dealers that others mentioned. The eligibility rules really do change frequently, and having documentation could save you headaches later!
@92a0f5ebd644 Great point about the point-of-sale option! I'm actually new to this community but have been lurking and learning so much from everyone's experiences. As someone who's just starting to research EV purchases for my family, the point-of-sale rebate sounds appealing for cash flow reasons, but you're absolutely right about the risk. If our income ends up being higher than expected or if vehicle eligibility changes after purchase, having to pay back $15,000 (for two vehicles) to the IRS sounds like a nightmare. I'm leaning toward the traditional route of claiming the credits at tax time, especially since we won't know our final MAGI until the end of the year. Plus, it seems like from this thread that the traditional method is pretty straightforward with tax software. Has anyone here had experience with dealers pushing the point-of-sale option? I'm wondering if some dealers prefer it because they get paid immediately rather than waiting for customers to get their tax refunds and potentially spend that money elsewhere. Thanks to everyone in this thread for sharing your experiences - this has been incredibly educational for a newcomer like me!
Welcome to the community! As someone who just went through this exact situation with my partner last year, I can confirm that married couples filing jointly can absolutely claim EV tax credits for two vehicles purchased in the same year. We bought a Hyundai Ioniq 5 and a Volkswagen ID.4 and successfully claimed both credits on our joint return. A few key takeaways from our experience: **Vehicle titling is flexible** - We had one car in my name and one in both our names. The IRS doesn't care about the title arrangement as long as you're the original purchaser and it's for personal use. **Documentation is crucial** - Keep everything organized: purchase agreements, VINs, delivery dates, and any dealer communications about eligibility. We actually created a dedicated folder for all EV-related tax documents. **Income timing matters** - Since you mentioned planning purchases "within the next few months," consider your annual income flow. If you're close to the $300k MAGI limit for joint filers, the timing of bonuses, stock options, or other income could affect your eligibility. **Vehicle-specific eligibility changes** - Both the Model Y and Mach-E have had varying eligibility depending on manufacturing dates and trim levels. I'd strongly recommend verifying current eligibility status right before purchase, not just during your initial research. The filing process itself was straightforward - just two Form 8936s that our tax software handled easily. Best financial decision we made last year! Feel free to ask if you have any other questions about the process.
This is such a helpful breakdown, @17f95d4ab17e! I'm new to this community and currently researching EV purchases with my spouse. Your point about creating a dedicated folder for EV tax documents is brilliant - I wouldn't have thought of that but it makes so much sense given how complex the eligibility requirements seem to be. I'm curious about your experience with the Hyundai Ioniq 5 and VW ID.4 specifically. Did both vehicles qualify for the full $7,500 credit, or were there differences in the amounts based on the battery sourcing requirements? I've been reading that some vehicles only qualify for partial credits now due to the new manufacturing and battery component rules. Also, when you say "vehicle-specific eligibility changes," how frequently are we talking? Should I be checking eligibility weekly, monthly, or just right before I'm ready to sign paperwork? I want to make sure I'm not caught off guard by any last-minute changes. Thanks for sharing your experience - it's really reassuring to hear from someone who successfully navigated this process!
This is a great question that many foreign investors struggle with! I'm also a European investor in US stocks and went through this same confusion last year. Even though your stocks don't currently pay dividends, you'll still need to submit the W-8BEN form to your broker. This form serves as your certification that you're a non-US person for tax purposes, and most brokers require it regardless of whether your current holdings pay dividends or not. The reason is that the form establishes your tax status for your entire investment account. Your stocks might start paying dividends in the future, or you might buy dividend-paying stocks later. Having the W-8BEN on file from the beginning prevents any complications down the road. For capital gains when you sell, the good news is that as a non-US resident, you generally won't owe US capital gains tax on your stock sales. This is typically covered by the tax treaty between your European country and the US. You'll only need to report and pay taxes on those gains in your home country according to your local tax laws. I'd recommend getting the W-8BEN filed sooner rather than later - it's valid for 3 years and will give you peace of mind that your tax status is properly established with your broker.
This is really helpful, thank you! I'm just starting to invest in US stocks from the UK and was wondering about the same thing. Quick question - do I need to submit the W-8BEN before I make my first purchase, or can I do it after? My broker mentioned something about it but I wasn't sure if it was urgent since I'm only planning to buy non-dividend stocks initially. Also, when you mention tax treaties, does that mean I don't need to worry about any US tax reporting at all when I sell, or are there still some situations where I might need to file something with the IRS?
Great question! From my experience, it's definitely better to submit the W-8BEN before making your first purchase if possible. Some brokers will actually hold up your trades or default to the highest withholding rates until they have the form on file. Even though you're planning non-dividend stocks initially, having it sorted upfront saves potential headaches. Regarding US tax reporting - in most cases as a UK resident, you won't need to file anything with the IRS for standard stock sales. The US-UK tax treaty generally exempts you from US capital gains tax on portfolio investments. However, there are a few exceptions to be aware of: if you're considered to have a US trade or business, if you spend significant time in the US (substantial presence test), or if you invest in certain specialized securities. For typical buy-and-hold stock investing though, you should only need to report the gains on your UK tax return. I'd still recommend double-checking your specific situation, especially if your circumstances are complex, but for straightforward stock investing from the UK, it's usually quite manageable!
I went through this exact same situation a few months ago as a non-US investor from Canada. Even though my stocks didn't pay dividends at the time, my broker still required the W-8BEN form to establish my foreign tax status. The key thing to understand is that the W-8BEN isn't just about current dividend income - it's about establishing your overall tax classification with your broker. This becomes important for several reasons: your stocks might start paying dividends later, you might purchase dividend-paying stocks in the future, or there could be other US-source income events that require proper withholding. When I eventually sold some of my positions, I didn't have to pay any US capital gains tax thanks to the Canada-US tax treaty. I only had to report the gains on my Canadian tax return. The W-8BEN had already established that I was a non-resident alien, so there were no complications with the broker or any unexpected withholding. My advice would be to go ahead and submit the W-8BEN form now, even before you need it. It's valid for three years and will prevent any issues down the road. Most brokers make it pretty straightforward to complete through their online platforms, and it's much easier to do it proactively rather than scrambling to get it done later when you actually need it.
This is really reassuring to hear from someone who's been through the exact same process! I'm actually in a similar boat - Canadian investor looking at US stocks. Quick question: when you filled out the W-8BEN, did you run into any issues with the tax treaty section? I've been reading through the form and Part II seems a bit confusing for claiming treaty benefits when you don't currently have dividend income. Did you still fill out that section, or did you leave it blank since you weren't receiving dividends at the time? Also, when you sold your positions, did your broker automatically handle everything correctly, or did you need to do anything special to make sure the treaty benefits applied?
I had almost the exact same experience! Called for verification, notice disappeared from my account the next day, and WMR updated with the standard processing message. My transcript stayed blank for about a week which had me worried, but then it suddenly updated with all the codes and my refund was deposited 3 days later. The disappearing notice is definitely a good sign - it means they accepted your verification and are moving forward with processing. The fact that WMR also updated suggests your return is actively being worked on. I'd expect to see transcript movement within the next few days, and probably your refund within 2 weeks max, even though they said 21 days. Keep checking but try not to stress too much - sounds like you're on the right track!
This is exactly what I needed to hear! Your timeline gives me so much hope - a week for transcript updates and then refund within days sounds way better than the 21 days they quoted me. I've been checking my transcript multiple times a day like a crazy person, but I'll try to be more patient knowing it's normal for it to stay blank even when things are progressing. Really appreciate you sharing your experience! š
Those are definitely encouraging signs! The disappearing verification notice is usually the clearest indicator that they've accepted your verification and are moving your return forward. Combined with the WMR update, it sounds like your return is actively being processed now. Don't worry too much about the blank transcript - that's completely normal at this stage. Transcripts often lag behind by several days or even a week after other systems update. Based on similar experiences I've seen, you'll probably see your transcript populate with codes within the next 3-7 days, and your refund could arrive well before that 21-day window they gave you. The fact that the agent said everything looked good is also reassuring. Keep checking periodically but try not to stress - you're definitely moving in the right direction!
25 I just filed Form 8300 last month for selling my boat. One thing to note - if the buyer gives you installment payments and any single payment is over $10k in cash, or if the combined cash payments go over $10k within a 12-month period in related transactions, you still need to file Form 8300. The penalty for not filing can be pretty steep!
17 Do you know what the penalty actually is? I sold a classic car last year for $11,500 cash and totally didn't know about this form.
The penalty for not filing Form 8300 can be significant - it's $50 per form if you're less than 30 days late, but can go up to $280 per form if you're more than 30 days late (or intentionally disregard the requirement). For your $11,500 cash sale, you should definitely file the form even though it's late. The IRS is generally more lenient if you voluntarily correct the oversight rather than waiting for them to discover it. You can still file it now with a letter explaining the delay - better late than never!
I just want to add some clarity on the timing requirements for Form 8300 since there seems to be some confusion in the thread. You must file Form 8300 within 15 days of receiving the cash payment - this is a hard deadline, not a guideline. For your F-150 sale at $14,500 cash, since you're selling at a loss (bought for $22k), you won't owe any capital gains tax. However, you're still required to file the form for the cash transaction reporting. One important detail: if the buyer splits the payment and gives you, say, $9,000 cash plus a $5,500 check, you wouldn't need to file Form 8300 since only the cash portion matters for this requirement. But if they give you $14,500 all in cash, then yes, you must file within 15 days. The form is really just to help track large cash movements in the economy - it doesn't automatically trigger a tax audit or anything scary like that. Just make sure to file it on time to avoid penalties!
Lourdes Fox
Has anyone used an online promissory note or do you need to get a lawyer involved? I'm in a similar situation with my daughter but trying to keep costs minimal as we're only talking about a $200k loan.
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Bruno Simmons
ā¢I used an online template for a family loan of $150k and had significant problems. The template didn't include state-specific requirements, and when my son later applied for a business loan, their bank wouldn't recognize our loan documentation. We ended up having to redo everything with an attorney anyway, which cost more in the long run.
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Ravi Malhotra
One thing I'd add to consider is the impact on your son's debt-to-income ratio for future lending. When we did a similar loan with our daughter, we discovered that some lenders treat family loans differently than traditional mortgages when calculating DTI for subsequent loans or refinancing. Also, regarding the "hassle" factor you mentioned - while there is paperwork involved, the annual savings of $25-30k you mentioned would more than justify the setup costs. Even if he refinances in 2-3 years when rates drop, you'd still save significant money during that period. Just make sure to discuss what happens if rates do drop significantly and he wants to refinance early. Will there be prepayment penalties? Having those terms clear upfront prevents awkward conversations later.
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Yuki Nakamura
ā¢That's a really good point about the DTI impact that I hadn't thought of. As someone new to this whole family lending thing, I'm wondering - would it help if the loan document specifically states it's subordinate to any future mortgage refinancing? Or does that create other complications? Also, regarding prepayment penalties, wouldn't having a penalty actually hurt the parent since they'd want maximum flexibility if their own financial situation changes? I'm trying to understand the balance between protecting both parties while keeping things simple.
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