Just want to add some clarity about the documentation requirements for charitable carryovers since I see some confusion in the thread. You absolutely need to maintain all your original receipts and acknowledgment letters from 2022 throughout the entire 5-year carryover period (through 2027 for your situation). For the $18,000 you donated in 2022, if any single donation was $250 or more, you need a written acknowledgment from the charity that includes the amount, date, and a statement about whether you received any goods or services in return. For non-cash donations over $500, you'll need Form 8283 each year you claim the carryover. One thing people often miss: you need to calculate your carryover amount based on your 2022 AGI limits, but then apply the remaining carryover against each subsequent year's AGI limits. So even if you couldn't use much in 2022 due to a lower AGI, you might be able to use more in 2024 if your income increased. I'd recommend creating a simple tracking document showing: original donation amount, 2022 AGI limit, amount claimed in 2022, remaining carryover balance, and then track how much you use each subsequent year. This will help you stay organized and avoid any issues if the IRS asks questions later.

I've been following this thread closely since I'm dealing with a very similar situation from my 2022 donations. One thing I want to emphasize that hasn't been mentioned yet is the importance of keeping detailed records of which specific donations you've already claimed versus which ones are still available for carryover. I made the mistake of not tracking this properly and ended up accidentally trying to claim the same donation amounts twice when preparing my 2023 return. Fortunately my tax software caught the error, but it was a real headache to sort out. My recommendation is to create a simple table with columns for: Original donation date, Charity name, Original amount, Year claimed, Amount claimed, and Remaining balance. Update it each year as you file your returns. This has saved me so much confusion, especially since I have carryovers from both 2022 and 2023 now. Also, regarding the AGI percentage limits - don't forget that if you're married filing jointly, you use your combined AGI to calculate the limits, which can significantly increase how much you can deduct each year compared to filing separately.

Something else to consider - Vanguard offers a feature called "Cost Basis Tracking" which shows your exact contributions over time. You can access it from the "My Accounts" section, then go to "Account details" and look for "Cost basis". This might give you a clearer picture than just doing the subtraction on your dashboard.

Great thread everyone! Just wanted to add that when you do make the withdrawal from Vanguard, make sure to specify that you want it coded as a "return of contributions" rather than a regular distribution. When you initiate the withdrawal online or over the phone, there should be an option to designate the withdrawal type. This helps ensure Vanguard reports it correctly on your 1099-R form, which will make your tax filing much smoother. Also, keep detailed records of the withdrawal amount and date - I create a simple spreadsheet tracking my contribution basis before and after any withdrawals. It's saved me time during tax season and gives me confidence that I'm staying within the penalty-free limits.

I went through the exact same situation last year - filed in February, got stuck in identity verification hell, and didn't see my refund until late April. The frustrating part is that the IRS gives you these vague timeframes that don't really help with planning. One thing I learned is that identity verification is actually just the beginning of their review process, not the end. After you verify your identity, your return can still get flagged for additional reviews based on credits you claimed, income discrepancies, or just random selection. The Where's My Refund tool is pretty useless during this phase - it'll just say "processing" forever. My advice: check your tax transcript online (you can access it through the IRS website) because it shows way more detail about what's actually happening with your return. Look for transaction codes that tell the real story. And honestly, try to mentally prepare for it taking closer to 6-8 weeks total from when you first verified your identity. The 2-3 week estimate seems to be wishful thinking on the IRS's part. Hang in there - you will eventually get your $3,400, it's just a matter of patience at this point.

I'm going through this exact same situation right now and it's driving me crazy! Filed in early February, verified my identity about 2.5 weeks ago, and still stuck in "processing" limbo. Reading through everyone's experiences here is both reassuring and frustrating - sounds like the IRS timeframes are basically meaningless. I'm definitely going to check my tax transcript like several people mentioned. The idea that there could be additional holds even after identity verification that the Where's My Refund tool doesn't show is both helpful to know and incredibly annoying. Why can't they just be transparent about what's actually happening? The services people mentioned (taxr.ai and Claimyr) are intriguing but I'm still a bit skeptical. Has anyone else here actually used them successfully? I'm getting desperate enough to consider it, especially if it means avoiding the nightmare of trying to call the IRS directly. Really hoping my refund moves along soon - I need it for some home repairs that I've been putting off. Thanks to everyone sharing their timelines and experiences, it helps to know I'm not alone in this waiting game!

Great breakdown from everyone! As someone who just went through this process last year, I want to emphasize a few practical points that really helped me: First, regarding your treasury investments - the IRS distinguishes between "portfolio interest" (which is exempt for NRAs) and other types of interest. Your Treasury Bills, Notes, and Bonds should all qualify for this exemption under IRC Section 871(h), so those interest payments and coupon payments totaling $890 should be tax-free for you. However, be aware that some financial institutions might still withhold 30% tax on these payments initially and issue you a 1042-S showing the withholding. If this happens, you can claim a refund when you file your 1040-NR. One thing I wish I'd known earlier: start organizing your documents NOW. Create separate folders for: - Employment income (W-2 from campus job) - Interest statements (1099-INT or 1042-S from banks) - Investment statements (1099-DIV, 1099-B for sales) - Any tax treaty claims Also, consider whether you need to file estimated quarterly taxes. With $9,200 in employment income, you're probably having enough withheld from your paychecks, but if your investment income grows significantly, you might need to make estimated payments to avoid underpayment penalties. The complexity is overwhelming at first, but once you understand the ECI vs non-ECI distinction, it becomes much more manageable!

This is such a comprehensive discussion! I wanted to add one more crucial point that hasn't been mentioned yet - the importance of understanding your home country's tax obligations as well. Many countries require their citizens to file tax returns on worldwide income, even when living abroad as students. You'll want to check if your home country has provisions for foreign tax credits or exemptions for students to avoid double taxation on your US income. Also, regarding your specific income amounts, with $9,200 from your campus job, you'll likely be entitled to claim the standard deduction on your 1040-NR (around $13,850 for 2023), which means your employment income might not be taxable at all! This is a huge advantage that many international students don't realize. For your investment portfolio, consider the timing of future transactions. Since capital gains from selling treasury securities are generally exempt for NRAs, you have more flexibility in your investment strategy compared to US tax residents who have to worry about short-term vs. long-term capital gains rates. One last practical tip: if you're using tax software, make sure it specifically supports NRA returns. Many popular programs like TurboTax don't handle 1040-NR filings, which can lead to incorrect filing as a resident alien and major complications with your visa status. Always double-check that you're filing the correct forms for your immigration status!

I'm a tax preparer and work with several rideshare drivers. Here's my general advice: 1. Standard mileage rate vs. actual expenses is a year-by-year choice, but with some restrictions. If you used standard mileage in the first year, you can switch between methods in later years. But if you used actual expenses the first year, you're locked into that method for that vehicle. 2. For major repairs like a transmission, if using actual expenses, you generally deduct the business-use percentage in the year incurred. 3. Keep detailed records! The IRS loves to audit Schedule C deductions, especially for rideshare drivers.

Everyone's forgetting the Section 179 deduction! If your repair technically counts as an improvement (extends useful life significantly), you might be able to use Section 179 to deduct the entire business portion in one year instead of depreciating it.