IRS

Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.

Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.



Fox KTVUABC 7CBSSan Francisco Chronicle

Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

Read all of our Trustpilot reviews


Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

Just a heads up that HR Block and TurboTax both handle these 1099-R Code G situations pretty well. If you use either software, they'll walk you through the right questions to determine what type of transaction it was and how to report it.

0 coins

I used TurboTax last year and it still confused me with a similar situation. It kept asking if I did a rollover when technically it was an in-plan conversion. I ended up having to call their support line to sort it out.

0 coins

Caesar Grant

•

I had a very similar situation last year and it turned out to be exactly what others have mentioned - an in-plan Roth conversion that I had completely forgotten about! The key thing to remember is that when you convert traditional 401k money (which was contributed pre-tax) to Roth 401k money (which grows tax-free), you have to pay income tax on the converted amount. That's why you're seeing a taxable amount in box 2a even though you didn't "withdraw" anything. Code G on a 1099-R doesn't always mean a traditional rollover between different accounts. It can also indicate in-plan conversions, automatic plan transfers when providers change, or other internal movements of retirement funds. Since you mentioned finding paperwork about "optimizing your retirement tax strategy," this almost certainly sounds like an in-plan Roth conversion. The good news is there's no early withdrawal penalty - you just need to include that amount as taxable income for the year. Make sure to report the 1099-R correctly on your tax return, and consider setting aside money for the tax bill if you haven't already. Definitely confirm with your plan administrator, but this sounds very straightforward once you know what happened!

0 coins

Amina Sow

•

This is really helpful! I'm dealing with a similar situation where I got a 1099-R with code G and had no idea what it meant. Reading through this thread, it sounds like in-plan Roth conversions are way more common than I realized. Quick question - when you say "set aside money for the tax bill," roughly what percentage of the converted amount should someone expect to pay in taxes? I'm trying to figure out if I need to adjust my withholdings or make an estimated payment to avoid penalties. Also, did you have any issues with your tax software recognizing this as a conversion versus trying to treat it as a regular rollover? Want to make sure I don't mess up the reporting.

0 coins

Has anyone tried TurboTax for figuring this stuff out? I used it last year and it seemed pretty clear that pet expenses weren't deductible, but I'm wondering if the premium version might have more options for finding other deductions to make up for it?

0 coins

Lara Woods

•

I use TurboTax Premier and it does a decent job asking about various deductions, but honestly I found more deductions when I switched to an actual CPA. Software is good but sometimes misses nuances in your specific situation.

0 coins

I've been dealing with massive vet bills too - my cat needed emergency surgery twice this year totaling about $4,800. After reading through all these comments, I decided to try both taxr.ai and Claimyr since everyone seemed to have good experiences. The taxr.ai analysis was really thorough and while they confirmed my vet bills weren't deductible (as expected), they found several business expense deductions I had completely overlooked since I do some freelance work. Saved me about $900 in taxes which definitely helps with the vet bill sting. Then I used Claimyr to get through to an actual IRS agent to double-check some of the more complex deductions taxr.ai had identified. Got connected in maybe 25 minutes and the agent was incredibly helpful - even walked me through proper documentation requirements so I wouldn't have issues if audited. Between the two services, I feel much more confident about my tax situation this year. Sometimes you just need professional help to navigate all the rules properly, especially when you're dealing with significant unexpected expenses like vet bills.

0 coins

This is really helpful to hear about your experience with both services! I'm dealing with similar unexpected vet expenses and feeling overwhelmed trying to figure out what I can and can't deduct. It sounds like even though the pet expenses themselves aren't deductible, there might be other areas where I'm missing out on legitimate deductions. Did taxr.ai help you organize your documentation too, or did they just identify the deductions? I'm worried about keeping proper records in case of an audit.

0 coins

Amina Toure

•

Welcome to the community! As someone who's helped many taxpayers navigate this exact situation, I can assure you that your concerns are completely understandable but likely unnecessary. The key thing to remember is that the IRS distinguishes between personal property sales and business income. When you sell personal items like your laptop, clothes, and household goods for less than you originally paid, you're realizing what's called a "personal loss" - and personal losses on items used for personal purposes aren't taxable events. Here's my recommended approach for your situation: **For items already sold:** Create a simple spreadsheet documenting each sale. Include the item description, your best estimate of the original purchase price, the actual sale price, and approximate purchase/sale dates. For items like electronics, you can often find historical pricing information online or use current retail prices as a baseline (most electronics depreciate significantly over time). **For documentation:** While receipts are ideal, the IRS accepts reasonable estimates backed by logical methodology. For that $1200 laptop sold for $400, that's clearly a loss - technology depreciates rapidly and the IRS understands this. **Tax reporting:** When you receive your 1099-K, you'll report it as income but then offset it by documenting these were personal items sold below their cost basis. Most modern tax software has specific workflows for this scenario now. The bottom line: You're decluttering and taking losses on personal property. The IRS isn't interested in taxing those transactions. Just keep reasonable records and don't stress about perfect documentation for every small item!

0 coins

PixelWarrior

•

This is exactly what I needed to hear as someone new to both this community and dealing with online sales! Your explanation about personal losses not being taxable events really clarifies things for me. I'm particularly relieved to know that reasonable estimates are acceptable when you don't have original receipts. I was panicking thinking I'd need to somehow reconstruct exact purchase prices from years ago. The historical pricing research approach you mentioned sounds very doable - especially for electronics where you can track model release dates and original MSRPs. One follow-up question: when you mention "offsetting" the 1099-K income by documenting personal items sold below cost basis, does this typically result in zero additional tax owed? Or could there still be some tax liability even when everything was sold at a loss? I want to make sure I'm setting realistic expectations for my tax situation. Thanks for the warm welcome and such detailed guidance! It's great to find a community where people share practical, real-world tax advice.

0 coins

Yara Sayegh

•

Welcome to the community! Your situation is incredibly common and I completely understand the anxiety around this new reporting requirement. As someone who's been through this exact scenario, let me put your mind at ease. The most important thing to understand is that selling personal items at a loss is NOT taxable income. When you sell that $1200 laptop for $400, you're not making $400 in profit - you're actually taking an $800 loss on a personal item. The IRS recognizes this distinction. Here's what I recommend for your peace of mind: **Start documenting now:** Create a simple spreadsheet with columns for item description, estimated original cost, sale price, sale date, and platform used. Even without receipts, reasonable estimates are perfectly acceptable. **For original price estimates:** Use current retail prices for similar items and adjust downward. For electronics especially, you can often find historical pricing data online. A 3-year-old laptop selling for 1/3 of its original price is completely normal depreciation. **The 1099-K reality:** Yes, you'll receive these forms, but they're just reporting tools. When you file your taxes, you report the 1099-K income and then document that these were personal items sold below cost. Most people in your situation end up with zero additional tax liability. **Keep it simple:** For small items like clothes, you can group similar items together rather than documenting every individual piece. The IRS isn't trying to catch people decluttering their homes - they're targeting actual businesses that aren't reporting properly. Your casual selling activity is exactly what the personal property exemption is designed for. Don't let tax anxiety stop you from decluttering!

0 coins

Maya Diaz

•

Thank you so much for this detailed breakdown! As someone completely new to this situation, your explanation really helps calm my nerves. I especially appreciate the practical advice about grouping similar small items together - I was wondering if I'd need to document every single $5 item individually, which seemed overwhelming. Your point about the IRS targeting actual businesses rather than people decluttering really puts this in perspective. I think I was catastrophizing and imagining worst-case audit scenarios when the reality is much more straightforward. One thing that's still unclear to me: when you mention adjusting current retail prices downward for estimates, is there a general percentage or timeframe rule that's considered reasonable? Like for electronics that are 2-3 years old, would estimating 30-50% of current retail be appropriate? I want to make sure my estimates seem logical if anyone ever reviews them. Also, has anyone in this community actually received one of these IRS letters asking for documentation on personal item sales? I'm curious how common that actually is versus just filing correctly from the start and never hearing anything.

0 coins

Tate Jensen

•

Quick tip from an expensive lesson I learned: The 250 hours of rental services MUST be documented contemporaneously for the safe harbor to apply. I got audited because I reconstructed my logs after the fact and the IRS disallowed my QBI deduction. Now I use a simple time-tracking app on my phone and take pictures of myself at the properties with timestamps. Overkill maybe, but after going through an audit I'm not taking chances.

0 coins

Adaline Wong

•

What time tracking app do you use? I've been trying to find something that works well for rental property management.

0 coins

Zara Khan

•

Great discussion here! I've been tracking my rental property hours for the QBI safe harbor and wanted to share a few additional insights that might help. One thing I learned the hard way is that you need to be really specific in your time logs. Don't just write "property maintenance" - write "Replaced kitchen faucet at 123 Main St, including trip to hardware store." The IRS wants to see that these are legitimate business activities. Also, for those asking about what counts - here's what my CPA confirmed counts toward the 250 hours: - Time spent researching and purchasing materials/supplies (yes, including appliances) - Administrative time like updating rent rolls, preparing 1099s for contractors - Time spent on tenant communications (emails, calls, showings) - Property inspections and maintenance - Travel time to/from properties (but not commuting from your primary residence to your first property of the day) One gray area is time spent on property improvements vs. repairs. Generally, time spent on repairs counts toward your 250 hours, but time spent on major improvements (like a full kitchen renovation) might not count the same way since those are capital expenditures. The safe harbor really can be worth it - I saved about $3,200 in taxes last year by qualifying. Just make sure your documentation is bulletproof!

0 coins

This is really helpful, especially the detail about being specific in time logs. I'm new to rental property ownership (just purchased my first duplex) and trying to set up proper tracking from the start. Quick question about the travel time - you mentioned it doesn't count if it's commuting from your primary residence to your first property. What if you live in one unit of a duplex you own? Does travel to the hardware store for supplies count since you're technically starting from a rental property? Also, do you have any recommendations for apps or systems that work well for tracking these detailed logs? I want to make sure I'm capturing everything correctly from day one.

0 coins

Anna Stewart

•

I just wanted to add my experience to this helpful discussion! I was in the exact same boat last year - on Medicaid for several years and completely confused when my tax software suddenly started asking about Form 1095-A. I actually delayed filing my taxes for almost a month because I was convinced I was missing something important! After reading through all the great explanations here, I want to emphasize one key point that really helped me understand: the tax software companies are required to ask comprehensive health insurance questions to cover every possible scenario, which is why they ask EVERYONE about 1095-A forms, even people like us on Medicaid who will never receive one. The bottom line is simple: if you only have Medicaid coverage, you can confidently answer "No" when asked about receiving a 1095-A form and continue filing normally. Medicaid fully satisfies all health insurance requirements under the ACA. I filed successfully this way and received my refund without any issues. Don't let the generic software questions stress you out - you have everything you need to file your taxes! This community thread has been incredibly helpful for clearing up what seems to be a very common source of confusion.

0 coins

StellarSurfer

•

Thank you so much for sharing your experience! I'm actually in this exact situation right now - I've been on Medicaid for about two years and my tax software (H&R Block) keeps asking about this 1095-A form that I've never heard of before. I was starting to panic thinking I was missing some crucial document that would mess up my entire tax filing. Reading through everyone's experiences here has been such a relief! It's really helpful to know that other people have successfully filed without this form and gotten their refunds normally. I especially appreciate how you mentioned that you delayed filing for almost a month - I was about to do the same thing! Now I feel confident enough to just select "No" for the 1095-A question and move forward with my filing. This thread should honestly be pinned somewhere because it seems like so many Medicaid recipients run into this same confusion every tax season.

0 coins

Ava Thompson

•

I'm so glad I found this thread! I'm a tax preparer and I see this exact confusion with Medicaid clients every single tax season. You absolutely do NOT need Form 1095-A if you only have Medicaid coverage. That form is exclusively for marketplace insurance purchased through Healthcare.gov or state exchanges. Here's what's happening: Tax software companies are legally required to ask about all possible tax scenarios, so they ask EVERYONE about 1095-A forms even though most people don't need them. It's frustrating because they don't explain this context. For Medicaid recipients like yourself: Simply answer "No" when asked about receiving a 1095-A and continue filing. Your Medicaid coverage satisfies all health insurance requirements. You might receive a 1095-B form for your records, but you don't need to wait for it or attach it to your return. The reason you didn't encounter this in previous years is likely because tax software has become more comprehensive in their questioning, but the actual tax rules for Medicaid haven't changed. You're perfectly fine to file your taxes right now with just your standard documents!

0 coins

Paolo Romano

•

This is incredibly helpful coming from a tax preparer! I really appreciate professionals like you taking the time to explain these confusing situations. It makes so much sense that the software companies have to ask comprehensive questions to cover all scenarios - I just wish they would include a brief explanation of WHY they're asking instead of making it seem like everyone needs every form they mention. Your point about the tax rules for Medicaid not actually changing, but the software questioning becoming more thorough, really clarifies why this seems like a "new" issue even though it's not. I feel much more confident now about proceeding with my filing and just answering "No" to the 1095-A question. Thank you for sharing your professional expertise to help clear up what's obviously a very common source of confusion!

0 coins

Prev1...176177178179180...5643Next