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Canadian card shop owner here - the best advice I can give is separate your transactions in your accounting system: 1. Create a PURCHASE transaction for the cards you're buying from the customer (the $120 value) 2. Create a SALE transaction for the full value of what you're selling them ($250) Don't use the "discount" approach in your POS - it messes up your revenue reporting and can create GST/HST problems. I use a simple trade slip that the customer signs confirming the value of cards I'm purchasing from them. This becomes my purchase receipt. Then I create a separate sales receipt for what they're buying from me. Keeps everything clean for tax purposes and I've survived two CRA reviews without issues.

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That makes so much sense, thanks! Do you record these as two completely separate transactions, or do you somehow link them in your system? And has CRA ever questioned how you determine the value of cards you're buying from customers?

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I keep them as separate transactions but link them with a reference number system - like "Trade #2025-001A" for the purchase and "Trade #2025-001B" for the sale. This way I can easily match them up if needed. For card values, I document my pricing method consistently. I use TCGPlayer or similar market pricing for singles, and for bulk commons I have standard rates per card type. The key is being consistent and reasonable - CRA cares more about having a systematic approach than perfect precision on every card. I also take photos of high-value items ($50+) just in case. The trade slip includes a line where customers acknowledge the values, which helps if there's ever a dispute. Been doing this for 3 years now and it's saved me so much headache at tax time!

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Heather Tyson

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As someone who's been running a small collectibles business for a few years, I wanted to add one more consideration that might help - make sure you're thinking about the GST/HST implications on BOTH sides of the transaction if you're registered. When you "purchase" those $120 worth of cards from your customer, you might be eligible to claim input tax credits if the person you're buying from is also GST/HST registered (though this is rare with individual collectors). Most of the time you won't get ITCs since you're buying from consumers, but it's worth understanding the rules. Also, I've found it helpful to set up specific inventory categories in my accounting software for "trade-in inventory" vs "purchased inventory" - makes it easier to track your margins and see how profitable your trade programs actually are. Sometimes what feels like a good deal in the moment doesn't look as great when you factor in all the tax obligations! The separate transaction approach that Dylan mentioned is definitely the way to go. Clean books make everything easier when tax season rolls around.

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This is really helpful context! I hadn't even thought about the input tax credit aspect. Since most of my customers are individual collectors, I'm probably not getting ITCs on the cards I buy from them, but it's good to know about that exception for registered businesses. The inventory categorization idea is brilliant - I've been lumping all my inventory together and it's hard to see which acquisition methods are actually profitable. Setting up separate categories for "trade-in inventory" vs "wholesale purchases" would definitely help me understand my margins better. One follow-up question on the tax side - when I eventually sell those trade-in cards, do I use their original trade-in value as my cost basis, or do I need to adjust it somehow? I want to make sure I'm calculating my actual profit correctly for tax purposes.

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Evelyn Kim

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@c066aee2f7d9 Great point about tracking trade-in inventory separately! For your cost basis question @75205aec1502, you should use the fair market value you recorded when you acquired the cards through trade as your cost basis. So if you valued incoming cards at $120 during the trade, that $120 becomes your inventory cost. When you later sell those cards, let's say for $150, your taxable profit would be $30 ($150 sale price minus $120 cost basis). This is important because it prevents you from getting taxed twice on the same value. The key is maintaining consistent documentation of the values you assign during trades. I keep a simple spreadsheet tracking: trade date, cards acquired, valuation method used, and the cost basis I recorded. This way when I sell those items later, I have clear records showing my legitimate cost basis for calculating actual profit margins. Your accountant will appreciate having this level of detail come tax season!

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Salim Nasir

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Has anyone used TurboTax to calculate their EIC? I'm having the same issue with a low credit amount and wondering if the software might be calculating it wrong. I've used TT for years but this is the first time I've qualified for EIC.

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Hazel Garcia

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I use TurboTax every year and it calculates EIC correctly. The problem isn't the software - it's understanding the EIC rules. If your income is at the higher end of eligibility, you'll get a smaller amount. The software is following IRS formulas exactly. Double-check that you entered all your income correctly. If you have both W-2 and 1099 income, make sure it's all included. Sometimes people forget to include cash tips or other small income sources that affect the EIC calculation.

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Jason Brewer

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I'm dealing with a similar situation and found that many people don't realize the EIC has very specific income ranges where it provides maximum benefit. Based on what everyone's shared here, it sounds like your $19,000 income is putting you right at the phase-out threshold. One thing that helped me understand my situation better was requesting a transcript of my tax account from the IRS website. It shows exactly how they calculated my EIC and breaks down all the income sources they used. You might discover there's additional income being counted that you forgot about - even small amounts like bank interest or cash app earnings can push you over the optimal EIC range. Also, if you're doing food delivery work, make sure you're deducting legitimate business expenses like mileage, phone bills, and delivery bags. While this won't directly increase your EIC (since it's based on earned income before business deductions), it can reduce your overall tax liability and increase your refund in other ways.

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Liam Cortez

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This is really helpful advice! I never thought about requesting a transcript from the IRS to see exactly how they calculated my EIC. That sounds like it would show me if there's any income I'm forgetting about that's pushing me into the phase-out range. The business expense deduction tip is smart too - even if it doesn't directly help with EIC, every bit of tax savings helps when you're in a tight spot financially. Do you know if things like car maintenance from delivery driving can be deducted, or is it mainly just mileage? I'm definitely going to look into getting that transcript. It would be nice to have a clear breakdown of where all my numbers are coming from instead of just guessing why my EIC is so low.

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Kyle Wallace

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Just wanted to add my experience from this tax season - I saw the same 960 code and called FreeTaxUSA directly to confirm what everyone here is saying. The customer service rep explained that when you select "pay fees from refund," you're essentially authorizing them to act as an intermediary. They create what's called a "temporary bank product" where the IRS deposits your full refund, FreeTaxUSA takes their preparation fee (mine was $14.99), and then they ACH transfer the remainder to your actual bank account. The whole process took about 10 days from when my refund was issued. The authorization is very narrowly defined - they can't access any other tax information or communicate with the IRS about your return status. It's purely transactional. Your daughter should receive email updates from FreeTaxUSA throughout the process showing when they received the refund and when they transferred her portion.

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Ella Russell

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This is really reassuring to hear! I was actually considering calling FreeTaxUSA myself but you've saved me the time. The 10-day timeframe you mentioned sounds about right - I think my daughter's refund should be processing soon since she filed about a week ago. It's good to know they send email updates throughout the process too. I was worried we'd be left in the dark about what was happening with the money. Thanks for sharing your direct experience with their customer service - it helps put this whole 960 code situation into perspective!

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Thank you everyone for the detailed explanations! As someone new to this community, I really appreciate how thorough and helpful these responses have been. I had the exact same concern when I saw a 960 code on my transcript after using TaxSlayer and choosing the refund transfer option. What struck me most was how this authorization process isn't clearly explained during the filing process - you really have to dig into the fine print to understand what's happening. For anyone else encountering this, I'd recommend keeping screenshots of your filing confirmation emails and checking your transcript periodically to see when the code gets removed. It's also worth noting that some tax prep companies are more transparent about this process than others - might be something to consider when choosing software for next year's filing season.

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Diego Vargas

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Welcome to the community! You're absolutely right about the transparency issue - it really should be explained more clearly upfront. I just went through this same situation with my first-time filing and was completely caught off guard by the 960 code. Your advice about keeping screenshots is spot on - I wish I had thought of that. It would have saved me a lot of confusion when trying to piece together what happened. For future reference, does anyone know if there's a way to opt out of the refund transfer after you've already filed but before the refund is processed? Or are you locked in once the return is submitted?

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Based on all the excellent advice here, I want to emphasize one more practical consideration: even if you successfully get more of your bonus upfront through questionable W-4 changes, you're essentially giving yourself an interest-free loan that you'll have to pay back at tax time. Instead of risking compliance issues, consider these cash flow alternatives: - If you have urgent expenses, look into a short-term personal loan or line of credit - Ask family or friends for a temporary loan if possible - See if you can negotiate payment plans for your urgent expenses - Check if your employer offers payroll advances or emergency hardship programs Many people don't realize that most financial institutions offer short-term lending options that might cost less in interest than the potential penalties and stress of IRS scrutiny. Plus, you maintain a clean tax compliance record. The tax professionals and compliance experts in this thread have made it clear that the risks far outweigh the temporary benefits. Your future self will thank you for handling this situation legally and responsibly, even if it means less immediate cash in hand.

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Nia Thompson

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This is such a practical perspective that really puts things in proper context! You're absolutely right that manipulating withholding is essentially just shifting when you pay the same amount - except with added legal risks and stress. Your point about exploring legitimate borrowing options instead is brilliant. A short-term personal loan with transparent interest rates and terms is so much better than potentially triggering IRS scrutiny or penalties. At least with a regular loan, you know exactly what you're getting into and there are consumer protections. I hadn't thought about employer hardship programs either - many companies do offer payroll advances or emergency assistance that could address urgent financial needs without any tax complications. It's worth asking HR about these options before considering anything questionable with withholding. The "interest-free loan to yourself" framing really clicks for me. When you think about it that way, plus factor in the stress and potential consequences, it becomes clear that there are much better ways to handle temporary cash flow issues. Thanks for adding this perspective - it really helps put the whole situation in the right light!

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After reading through all these responses, I'm really glad I asked this question here before doing something I would have regretted. The consensus is pretty clear that claiming exempt when you don't qualify is a bad idea, both legally and practically. What's been most helpful is learning about the legitimate alternatives - adjusting allowances temporarily instead of claiming exempt, understanding how different companies handle bonus withholding, and exploring other cash flow options like short-term loans or employer hardship programs. The point about IRS algorithms flagging suspicious W-4 timing patterns really opened my eyes. I had no idea they actively monitor for these kinds of changes around bonus payments. That alone makes it not worth the risk. I think my next steps will be: 1) Talk to payroll about how they specifically handle bonus withholding, 2) Look into whether my company has any emergency assistance programs, and 3) Maybe consult with a tax professional about legitimate ways to optimize my withholding for the rest of the year. Thanks everyone for steering me away from what could have been a costly mistake. Sometimes the "quick fix" isn't actually the smart fix!

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Mei Liu

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This is exactly the kind of thoughtful approach that will serve you well! It's really refreshing to see someone actually take the expert advice to heart instead of just looking for confirmation of what they wanted to do anyway. Your action plan is spot-on - starting with payroll to understand your company's specific bonus withholding process is smart because it might reveal that changing your W-4 wouldn't even achieve what you're hoping for. And exploring employer assistance programs is brilliant - you might be surprised what resources are available that you didn't know about. The tax professional consultation is also a great investment. They can help you optimize your withholding strategy for the remainder of the year in legitimate ways that might actually improve your overall cash flow situation beyond just the bonus. You've turned what could have been a compliance nightmare into a learning opportunity that will probably benefit your financial planning for years to come. That's exactly the kind of long-term thinking that builds real financial stability rather than just quick fixes that create bigger problems later.

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I've been with Wells Fargo for about 3 years now and can confirm they're pretty strict about waiting until the exact date. Unlike some of the smaller banks and credit unions that release early, Wells Fargo processes these right on schedule. Your June 12th date should be solid - I'd expect it to hit your account sometime during business hours that day. The one thing I've noticed is that if June 12th falls on a weekend, they usually process it on the Friday before, but since you're looking at a weekday you should be good. Just don't refresh your app at midnight expecting it to be there immediately - these usually post during normal banking hours.

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Omar Fawzi

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Good to know about the weekend processing! That's actually really helpful info. I was wondering what would happen if it fell on a Saturday or Sunday. Since June 12th is a Thursday this year, sounds like I should see it during regular business hours that day. Thanks for the detailed breakdown - makes me feel much better about the timing expectations with Wells Fargo.

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Diego Vargas

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Based on my experience with Wells Fargo, they're pretty conservative with deposit timing - they'll release your refund exactly on June 12th as shown on your transcript, not earlier. I switched to Wells Fargo two years ago from a local credit union that always gave me deposits 1-2 days early, so I totally understand the adjustment! The good news is that Wells Fargo is very reliable - if your transcript says June 12th, you can count on getting it that day (usually sometime during business hours). Just manage your expectations and don't expect the early release you were used to with your credit union. For future refunds, you might want to consider keeping a secondary account with an online bank like Chime or SoFi if early access to funds is important to you - many people do this specifically for the early deposit feature while keeping their primary banking with traditional banks.

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Summer Green

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This is super helpful! I'm actually in the exact same boat - switched from a credit union that always released early to Wells Fargo and wasn't sure what to expect. The dual banking strategy sounds really smart for getting the best of both worlds. Do you have any recommendations for which online banks are most reliable for early deposits? I'm thinking about setting one up specifically for tax refunds and maybe direct deposit from work too.

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