Just wanted to add my experience for anyone else dealing with this - I had the same issue last year and called the IRS to confirm. The representative told me that 52-1320843 is indeed their correct EIN for 1099-INT forms, and she mentioned that they're aware many taxpayers have trouble locating this information on the forms. One thing she emphasized is to make sure you're reporting the full amount shown in Box 1 of the 1099-INT, even if it seems like a small amount. The IRS has that information in their system and any discrepancy could trigger correspondence later. Also, if you received interest from the IRS in multiple years, you should have separate 1099-INT forms for each year - don't accidentally combine them on your current year return. The whole situation is definitely frustrating, but at least now we know the magic number to use!

I went through this exact same frustration a few months ago! The IRS EIN is definitely 52-1320843 as everyone has confirmed. What really helped me was creating a simple spreadsheet with all the commonly needed tax ID numbers (IRS, state agencies, etc.) so I don't have to hunt for them every year. One additional tip: if you're e-filing and your software seems to reject the EIN or flag it as invalid, try refreshing the form or restarting that section. Sometimes the software databases aren't updated with government EINs and it can cause weird validation errors. I had to contact my tax software's support team last year because their system kept saying the IRS EIN was "invalid" - turns out it was a bug on their end that they had to manually override. Also, keep a copy of that 1099-INT with your tax records. If you ever get audited or questioned about the interest income, having the original form showing it came from the IRS can save you a lot of headaches down the road.

One thing nobody's mentioned - what about writing off a portion of your phone bill? Since you need it to run the Uber app, that's definitely a legitimate business expense. Same with any car chargers, phone mounts, etc. Also wondering if you're tracking miles driven with app on vs. off? That's super important for documentation if you get audited.

This is such a complex situation! I've been doing taxes for rideshare drivers for a few years now, and car camping while driving is definitely unusual but not unheard of. From what I've seen work best with the IRS, you'll want to document everything meticulously. The hours-based approach mentioned by CyberNinja is solid - if you're online 60 hours out of 168 total hours per week, that 36% business use calculation is reasonable and defensible. A few additional considerations: - Keep a daily log of when you go online/offline in the app - Track any personal errands or non-work driving separately - The storage unit is likely not deductible since it's for personal belongings, unless you can prove specific business items are stored there - Don't forget about other legitimate business deductions like phone percentage, cleaning supplies, air fresheners, bottled water for passengers, etc. The key is consistency in your method and thorough documentation. The IRS cares more about reasonable allocation and good record-keeping than the exact methodology you use. Make sure your tax preparer understands rideshare taxation - many general practitioners aren't familiar with the nuances. Consider getting a second opinion from a CPA who specializes in gig economy workers if your current tax guy seems unsure.

I recommend you make a copy of the check when you pay that $58k and keep proof of payment forever. The IRS systems don't always talk to each other, and I've seen cases where one department doesn't know what the other is doing. The lock-in letter may have been processed before they knew you were about to pay.

Just went through this exact situation last month. The lock-in letter and your $58k tax bill are definitely connected - the IRS issued the lock-in because they see a pattern of underpayment and want to prevent it from continuing while you're resolving the existing debt. Here's what you need to know: paying off that $58k won't automatically remove the lock-in letter. These typically stay in effect for at least 12 months regardless of whether you've paid your back taxes. However, once you've paid the debt and can demonstrate compliance, you can appeal the lock-in or request a review. My advice - pay that $58k as planned (keep all documentation!), then immediately call the IRS number on the lock-in letter to discuss your situation. Explain that you've now paid the full debt and want to work with them on the withholding issue. Sometimes they're more willing to work with you once they see you've taken care of the outstanding balance. Also, double-check that your wife's employer received and processed the lock-in letter correctly. Some employers mess up the implementation, which can cause additional headaches down the road.

Don't forget to check if your state has different rules than federal for this kind of conversion! I got burned badly on this in California when I did something similar. The feds gave me a partial exclusion but CA had different rules that made more of the gain taxable at the state level.

Based on everyone's discussion here, it sounds like you need to carefully calculate whether moving back in for 2 years is actually worth it financially. With $270k in appreciation and roughly 5-6 years of rental use out of what would be 10+ years total ownership, you're looking at only a partial exclusion. Here's what I'd suggest considering: 1. Calculate your exact qualified vs non-qualified use periods 2. Factor in ALL the depreciation recapture you'll owe (this hits regardless of the exclusion) 3. Consider market timing - real estate cycles can easily wipe out tax savings 4. Don't forget state tax implications if you're in a high-tax state The math might show that selling now as a rental and paying the full capital gains could actually be better than waiting 2 years, especially if you factor in opportunity cost of the proceeds and potential market changes. A lot depends on your specific numbers and local market conditions. Have you run the actual calculations with your purchase price, claimed depreciation, and current market value? That's really the only way to know if the 2-year wait is worth it.

Has anyone mentioned the tax benefits of leasing vs buying for a corporation? We lease our company vehicles and it simplifies the deduction process significantly. No depreciation calculations, just deduct the lease payments (with some adjustments for luxury vehicles).

Just want to emphasize something important that hasn't been fully addressed - the IRS scrutinizes vehicle deductions very closely, especially for expensive cars like a Porsche. Your dad needs rock-solid documentation if he goes this route. If the corporation buys the vehicle, he'll need to maintain a detailed mileage log showing business vs. personal use for every trip. This means recording the odometer reading, date, destination, and business purpose for each use. The IRS can and will audit vehicle deductions, and without proper documentation, they'll disallow the entire deduction plus penalties. Also, if he's using the car for both his W2 job commute AND legitimate corporation business, he needs to be very clear about which trips qualify for deduction. The corporation can only deduct mileage/expenses for actual business purposes - client visits, business meetings, etc. Regular commuting to his W2 job is never deductible. Given the complexity and audit risk, especially with a high-value vehicle, I'd strongly recommend getting a tax professional involved before making any purchase decisions. The potential tax savings need to be weighed against the compliance burden and audit risk.