I'm in a similar situation as you - just starting my EA journey and feeling overwhelmed by all the study options out there! Reading through these responses has been really helpful. One thing I'm noticing is that everyone emphasizes the importance of practice questions, which makes sense since the exam tests application of knowledge rather than just memorization. I'm leaning toward starting with the free IRS materials and publications that Dylan mentioned to build my foundation, then investing in a comprehensive course once I understand the scope better. Has anyone found certain parts of the exam significantly harder than others? I'm trying to decide if I should tackle them in order (Parts 1, 2, 3) or start with whichever might be easiest to build confidence. Also curious about timing - how far apart did people space their exam attempts? Thanks for all the detailed advice so far - this community is incredibly helpful for newcomers like us!

As someone who recently passed all three parts of the SEE exam, I wanted to add a few thoughts to this great discussion. The advice here is spot-on, especially about the importance of practice questions and understanding the "why" behind tax rules rather than just memorizing. One thing I'd emphasize that hasn't been mentioned much is the value of creating your own study schedule and sticking to it religiously. I found that consistency was more important than intensity - studying 1-2 hours daily for 8 weeks worked better for me than cramming for 4 weeks. Regarding which part to start with, I'd actually recommend Part 1 first since it covers individual taxation concepts that form the foundation for understanding business and representation topics in Parts 2 and 3. Plus, getting that first pass under your belt builds tremendous confidence. For timing between parts, I spaced mine about 6-8 weeks apart to allow proper preparation time without losing momentum. The entire process took me about 7 months from start to finish, including one retake on Part 2. Don't get too caught up in finding the "perfect" study materials - whether it's Gleim, Surgent, or Fast Forward Academy, they're all solid. The key is picking one comprehensive system and committing to it fully rather than jumping between resources. Best of luck to everyone on this journey - becoming an EA is absolutely worth the effort!

Has anyone had luck filing through something besides TurboTax? This is my 3rd year with refund delays using them and im starting to wonder if its part of the problem. Maybe direct filing with the IRS is better?

I'm going through the exact same thing! Filed in early March and still nothing. One thing that really helped me was calling the Taxpayer Advocate Service (TAS) at 1-877-777-4778. They're a separate division within the IRS that helps when you've been waiting an unreasonably long time for your refund. You qualify for their help if it's been more than 21 days since you e-filed and you haven't received your refund or any communication about why it's delayed. They can actually look into your specific case and sometimes get things moving faster than the regular IRS customer service. Also, if you're experiencing financial hardship because of the delay (like you mentioned with bills), make sure to tell them that when you call. They prioritize cases where people are facing real consequences from the delay. Worth a shot before trying some of the paid services others mentioned!

Great question about bonus depreciation! Let me break this down for you since it's a common source of confusion. Bonus depreciation and Section 179 are separate elections, but they both count toward the same luxury auto limits. For passenger automobiles (like sedans), the combined first-year deduction from Section 179 + bonus depreciation + regular depreciation cannot exceed the luxury auto limit (~$20,200 for 2025 electric vehicles). So unfortunately, there's no way to get around that luxury auto ceiling for sedans, even by combining different depreciation methods. The limit applies to your total first-year depreciation, regardless of how you achieve it. However, here's where it gets interesting: if you finance the vehicle instead of purchasing outright, you might consider leasing strategies. Business lease payments are fully deductible (subject to business use percentage), and luxury auto limits don't apply to lease payments the same way they do to purchase depreciation. Another consideration for high-income earners like Hunter: if you're already hitting other tax limitation thresholds, maximizing current-year deductions might not be as critical. Sometimes spreading the deduction over multiple years through regular depreciation can be more beneficial from a cash flow perspective, especially if you expect to be in similar tax brackets in future years. The key is running the numbers for your specific situation rather than just assuming "biggest deduction now" is always best.

This has been such an enlightening discussion! As someone who's been wrestling with similar vehicle deduction questions for my consulting practice, I really appreciate everyone sharing their experiences and expertise. One thing I'm curious about that hasn't been fully addressed - for partnerships like Hunter's law firm, how do the Section 179 limits work exactly? Sean mentioned they apply at both the partnership and partner level, but I'm not clear on the mechanics. If the partnership buys the vehicle, does that use up part of the partnership's $1,160,000 Section 179 limit for 2025? And then does it also count against Hunter's individual limit when it flows through on his K-1? Or is it one or the other? I'm asking because my business partner and I are considering a similar vehicle purchase, and we want to make sure we structure it correctly to maximize the tax benefit. Should the partnership own it, or should one of us buy it individually and lease it to the partnership? Also, has anyone dealt with the IRS documentation requirements for business vehicle purchases? I've heard they can be pretty strict about proving business necessity, especially for luxury vehicles.

Don't forget about Section 195 of the tax code! It specifically addresses business startup costs and says you can deduct up to $5k immediately in your first year, with any excess amortized over 15 years. For your band equipment, look into Section 179 deduction which might let you deduct the full cost in year 1 rather than depreciating.

Great thread! As someone who went through a similar transition with my freelance graphic design work, I wanted to add that you should also consider opening a separate business bank account if you haven't already. Even though you can deduct those pre-LLC expenses, having clear separation between personal and business finances moving forward will make future tax seasons much smoother. Also, don't overlook smaller expenses like music streaming services for reference/research, software subscriptions, or even mileage to and from the studio. These can add up quickly and are often forgotten when calculating deductions. Keep a detailed log of everything business-related from here on out - your future self will thank you! One last tip: consider quarterly estimated tax payments now that you're generating "actual money" as you put it. The IRS gets cranky when you owe too much at year-end, and as your income grows, you'll want to stay ahead of it.

i think my company screwed up my w4 too. is there a way to check if they entered everything correctly? I filled it out right but maybe they input it wrong in their system?

The zero withholding issue is really common with the new W4 form! Based on your situation (Head of Household with 2 dependents), here's what likely went wrong: Most people accidentally check the "exempt from withholding" box or mess up Step 3 where you enter dependent amounts. For your situation, you should have $4,000 in Step 3 if both kids are under 17 ($2,000 each). Quick action plan: 1. Get a new W4 from HR immediately 2. Step 1: Check "Head of household" 3. Step 3: Enter $4,000 (for 2 kids under 17) 4. Step 4(c): Add extra withholding to catch up - probably around $150-200 per paycheck depending on your income Since you've had zero withholding for several months already, you definitely need that extra amount in 4(c) to avoid owing next year. The IRS withholding calculator can help you figure out the exact catch-up amount, but don't wait - get that corrected W4 to HR this week! Your smaller refund this year was because you essentially got an interest-free loan from the government instead of having taxes withheld. Better to fix it now than get hit with a big bill next April.