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Yuki Yamamoto

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I just wanted to share my experience as someone who went through this exact situation. I had about $4,500 in Bovada winnings last year and was really unsure about reporting them. After consulting with a CPA who specializes in gambling taxes, here's what I learned: You definitely need to report ALL gambling winnings, even from offshore sites like Bovada. The IRS considers all gambling income taxable regardless of the source or whether you receive forms. I reported mine on Schedule 1 as "Other Income." The tricky part is documentation. Since Bovada doesn't send tax forms, you need to be extra diligent about record-keeping. I downloaded my complete transaction history from Bovada (available in your account settings) and organized it by gambling sessions. This helped me properly calculate my deductible losses to offset some of the winnings. One thing that really helped was keeping a simple spreadsheet throughout the year tracking each session - date, game type, starting amount, ending amount, and net result. It made tax time much easier and gave me confidence that I had proper documentation if ever audited. The peace of mind of doing everything correctly is worth way more than any tax you might save by not reporting. Plus, if you have losses (which most gamblers do), you can deduct those up to your winnings if you itemize, which can significantly reduce your tax burden.

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This is exactly the kind of detailed guidance I was looking for! Thank you for sharing your experience. I'm particularly interested in the spreadsheet approach you mentioned - that sounds like a much more manageable way to track everything throughout the year rather than trying to reconstruct it all at tax time. One quick question: when you say you organized by "gambling sessions," did you treat each individual poker tournament or sports bet as its own session, or did you group multiple activities together if they happened close in time? I'm trying to figure out the best level of detail to track without making it overly complicated. Also, do you happen to remember roughly how much your CPA charged for helping with the gambling tax issues? I'm wondering if it's worth the cost to get professional help for my first time dealing with this.

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Jackson Carter

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@704d422c7cb9 That's really helpful advice about the spreadsheet tracking! I'm in a similar situation and have been putting off dealing with my Bovada records. For session organization, I think the key is finding a balance between being thorough and keeping it manageable. From what I've read, most tax professionals recommend treating each distinct gambling period as a session - so if you play poker for 2 hours, take a break for dinner, then come back and play sports betting, those would be separate sessions. But if you're switching between poker tables or placing multiple sports bets during one continuous period of gambling, that would all be one session. As for CPA costs, I'd be curious about that too. I'm debating whether to handle this myself or get professional help, especially since this is my first year with significant gambling winnings to report. The peace of mind factor you mentioned is definitely appealing - I'd rather pay a bit more upfront than worry about doing something wrong and facing penalties later.

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I'm glad to see so many detailed responses here! As someone who's been dealing with tax compliance for years, I want to emphasize a few key points for anyone in a similar situation: First, @Aurora Lacasse, you absolutely need to report that $3,200. The "offshore" nature of Bovada doesn't exempt you from US tax obligations - all gambling winnings are taxable income regardless of the source. What I haven't seen mentioned yet is that the IRS has been increasingly sophisticated about tracking cryptocurrency and online financial flows. Even if Bovada doesn't report directly to the IRS, your bank deposits from withdrawals can potentially trigger scrutiny during audits or automated matching programs. For record-keeping, I'd recommend going beyond just the Bovada transaction history. Also document: - Screenshots of your account balance before/after major sessions - Bank statements showing deposits and withdrawals - Any cryptocurrency transactions if you used crypto to fund your account The session-by-session approach others mentioned is crucial, but remember that you can only deduct losses up to your total winnings, and only if you itemize deductions. Given the higher standard deduction amounts in recent years, make sure itemizing actually benefits you before going down that route. Finally, consider setting aside about 25-30% of your net winnings for taxes throughout the year if you continue gambling. It's much easier to manage the tax burden when it's not a surprise at filing time.

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@Zoe Papanikolaou This is excellent comprehensive advice! I especially appreciate the point about cryptocurrency transactions - I hadn t'thought about documenting those separately. I ve'been using Bitcoin to fund my Bovada account and just realized I should be tracking those conversions too. The 25-30% tax withholding suggestion is really smart. I made the mistake of spending most of my winnings throughout the year and now I m'scrambling to figure out how much I ll'owe. Setting aside money as you go would definitely make tax season less stressful. One question about the bank deposit scrutiny you mentioned - do you know at what threshold the IRS typically starts paying attention to patterns? I ve'been making fairly regular withdrawals of $500-1000 from Bovada to my bank account, and now I m'wondering if that s'created a paper trail that might raise questions even if I report everything correctly. Also, for anyone else reading this thread, I just want to echo what others have said about keeping detailed records throughout the year rather than trying to reconstruct everything later. I m'spending way too much time right now going through months of transaction history that I should have organized as I went!

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Andre Laurent

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@fda89eaa80bc Great point about the cryptocurrency documentation! I hadn't considered that angle. For those using crypto to fund gambling accounts, you'll also need to track any capital gains/losses from the crypto transactions themselves, which adds another layer of complexity. Regarding your question @ac6dc0772264 about deposit thresholds - while there's no specific dollar amount that automatically triggers scrutiny, banks are required to report cash deposits over $10,000, and they may file Suspicious Activity Reports for patterns of smaller deposits that seem designed to avoid reporting requirements (called "structuring"). Your $500-1000 withdrawals probably won't raise flags on their own, but if they're very regular and you're not reporting the gambling income, an audit could potentially connect those dots. The key is just being proactive about reporting everything correctly. If you report your gambling winnings properly and can document where the money came from, regular deposits shouldn't be a problem. It only becomes an issue when there's unexplained income that doesn't match what you've reported on your tax return. I'd also add that if you're making estimated tax payments throughout the year (which you should consider if you have significant gambling winnings), make sure to account for both federal and state taxes. Some states have different rules for gambling income that you'll need to research based on where you live.

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Axel Far

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I'm dealing with a similar situation but with a different provider - my solo 401k administrator just hit me with a "service enhancement" fee that basically doubled my costs overnight. It's so frustrating how these companies lock you in with reasonable rates and then jack up prices once they think you're committed. What really bothers me is how they frame these increases as "improvements" when the service hasn't actually changed at all. Same portal, same customer service wait times, same basic administration - just a bigger bill. For those looking at alternatives, I'd definitely recommend getting fee schedules in writing before switching. Ask specifically about: annual increases, transaction fees, loan fees, and any "optional" services that might become mandatory later. Also worth asking if they guarantee rates for a certain period. The direct rollover process mentioned by others is straightforward, but make sure your new provider handles all the paperwork properly. The last thing you want is the IRS treating it as a distribution!

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This is exactly what happened to me! The "service enhancement" language is such a joke when literally nothing changes except the price. I've been burned by this before with other financial services - they start competitive then gradually increase fees once they think switching costs are too high. Your point about getting fee schedules in writing is spot on. I wish I had asked more detailed questions upfront about potential increases and what triggers them. Now I'm going through the process of comparing providers and making sure to ask about rate locks and fee caps. Has anyone had success negotiating with these companies when they pull this kind of stunt? Or is it pretty much just accept it or leave?

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Mason Kaczka

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This whole thread is incredibly helpful - I'm in the exact same boat with Solo401k.com and was feeling pretty trapped by their price increase. The idea that they can just triple fees with some vague "service enhancement" justification is infuriating. I'm definitely going to look into both taxr.ai for analyzing my current situation and Claimyr for actually getting through to negotiate. Even if I end up switching providers, it would be good to understand exactly what I'm paying for versus what I actually need. The direct rollover information is reassuring too. I was worried about tax implications of switching, but it sounds like as long as the funds transfer directly between administrators, there shouldn't be any issues. One question for those who have switched - how long does the typical rollover process take? I'm worried about being stuck with the new higher fees while waiting for paperwork to process.

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Has anyone mentioned that if your son made under a certain amount (I think it's around $12,950 for 2025), he might not be REQUIRED to file? But he should probably still file anyway because he'll likely get a refund of any withheld taxes!

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Sofia Torres

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Yes! This is super important! I didn't file my first year working because I made under the threshold, then learned later I would've gotten a refund of everything withheld. Such a waste!

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Emma Davis

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Great question! As someone who works in tax preparation, I'd definitely recommend starting with the IRS Free File program - it's legitimately free for federal AND state filing if your son made under $73,000. Since he's interested in learning the process, I'd suggest having him try one of the guided software options first (like TurboTax Free Edition or H&R Block Free) which will walk him through each step and explain what everything means. This gives him the educational experience he wants while ensuring everything gets filed correctly. One tip: make sure he has his Social Security card, W-2 from the restaurant, and any 1099s if applicable before starting. The software will ask for these documents and it's much easier when you have everything ready. Also, even if he doesn't owe any taxes (likely with just summer job income), he should definitely file anyway to get back any federal or state taxes that were withheld from his paychecks. First-time filers often miss out on refunds they're entitled to! The fact that he wants to learn this himself is awesome - financial literacy is such an important life skill and understanding taxes early will serve him well.

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Ella Cofer

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This is such a helpful breakdown! I've been on the fence about switching from TurboTax for the past two years because of the rising costs, but I was worried about missing something important or making an error. Your point about FreeTaxUSA giving you a higher state refund is really compelling - that suggests they might be more thorough with state-specific deductions and credits. I'm in California and always feel like I'm leaving money on the table with state taxes. One thing that's kept me with TurboTax is the fear of the unknown - like what if I mess something up without their hand-holding interface? But based on everyone's experiences here, it sounds like FreeTaxUSA is actually pretty user-friendly and their customer support is solid. I think I'm finally convinced to make the switch for next year. Saving $70+ annually while potentially getting a better refund seems like a no-brainer. Thanks for taking the time to test all three platforms - this kind of real-world comparison is exactly what I needed to see!

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Zoe Gonzalez

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You're making a smart decision! I was in the exact same boat - loyal to TurboTax for years but getting tired of paying more and more each season. The transition to FreeTaxUSA was honestly smoother than I expected. California residents especially benefit from FreeTaxUSA's attention to state-specific details. I noticed they ask more thorough questions about things like the California Earned Income Tax Credit and various state deductions that TurboTax seemed to rush through. One tip for your first year: keep your previous TurboTax return handy when you're setting up FreeTaxUSA. You can reference it for things like prior year AGI and carryover items. After that first year, everything imports seamlessly from your FreeTaxUSA account. The peace of mind comes pretty quickly once you realize their interface actually walks you through everything step-by-step, just without all the upselling pressure. You've got this!

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AstroAce

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This is such a timely post! I just went through the exact same decision process for my 2024 taxes. I've been using TurboTax for the past 5 years but was getting really frustrated with how expensive it's become - especially since they seem to push you toward their higher-tier plans even for relatively simple returns. After reading reviews and comparing options, I decided to try FreeTaxUSA this year. I was honestly a bit nervous about switching since I wasn't sure if I'd miss something important, but the experience was surprisingly smooth. The interface is definitely more straightforward and less flashy than TurboTax, but that actually made it easier to focus on the actual tax questions rather than getting distracted by all the bells and whistles. What really sold me was the price difference - I ended up paying about $15 for federal and state filing combined, compared to the $89 I paid last year with TurboTax. The refund amount was identical to what TurboTax calculated when I did a quick comparison, so I didn't lose anything by switching. The only minor downside I noticed was that importing my W-2 wasn't quite as seamless as TurboTax's photo feature, but honestly, typing in the numbers manually took maybe an extra 5 minutes. For the $70+ I saved, that seems like a pretty reasonable trade-off. Thanks for sharing your detailed comparison - it's great to see that others have had similar positive experiences with FreeTaxUSA!

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Mary Bates

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Your experience mirrors mine exactly! I made the switch this year too after being a TurboTax loyalist for way too long. The sticker shock of seeing my TurboTax bill creep up to nearly $100 last year finally pushed me over the edge. What surprised me most about FreeTaxUSA was how much cleaner the experience felt without all the constant upselling. TurboTax had gotten so aggressive with trying to push premium features that I felt like I was dodging sales pitches instead of just filing my taxes. FreeTaxUSA just asks the questions, gets the answers, and moves on. The manual W-2 entry thing is such a minor inconvenience for the savings. I actually found myself double-checking the numbers more carefully when typing them in versus just snapping a photo and hoping the OCR got everything right. Probably made my return more accurate in the end! It's reassuring to hear from so many people who've made the switch successfully. Makes me confident I made the right call for future years too.

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Oliver Wagner

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Anyone know if these ticket sales count toward the threshold where you need to make estimated tax payments? I normally just get a W-2 but sold about $8k in tickets last year and made like $1500 profit.

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Yes - ANY income, including ticket sales, counts toward whether you need to make estimated tax payments. The rule is you need to pay 90% of your tax liability during the year OR 100% of last year's tax liability (110% if your AGI was over $150k).

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Lydia Bailey

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For anyone still confused about this, I just want to clarify the key points since there's some conflicting advice in this thread: 1. You MUST report the full 1099-K amount as gross income - don't just report the net profit like one commenter suggested. The IRS computer systems automatically match 1099-K forms to tax returns, and reporting only the net will trigger a notice. 2. Whether you use Schedule C or Schedule 1 depends on your intent and frequency. If you bought tickets specifically to resell for profit or do this regularly, it's a business (Schedule C). If you're just selling tickets you can't use occasionally, it's hobby income (Schedule 1, Line 8i). 3. You can deduct BOTH your original ticket costs AND the platform fees. The 1099-K shows gross payments before StubHub's fees were deducted, so you're not double-counting anything. 4. Keep good records! Save your original purchase confirmations, credit card statements, and any communications about the sales. The IRS may ask for documentation. The software tools mentioned here (taxr.ai) seem helpful for organizing everything, but make sure you understand the fundamentals so you can verify the results make sense.

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Zoe Wang

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Thank you so much for this clear breakdown! This is exactly what I needed to hear. I was getting really confused by all the different advice, especially about whether to report gross vs net. One follow-up question - you mentioned keeping records of communications about the sales. What kind of communications are important? I have my StubHub sale confirmations and the original ticket purchase emails, but is there anything else I should be documenting for potential IRS questions? Also, since this was truly a one-time thing for me (sold tickets to a concert I couldn't attend anymore), I'm assuming Schedule 1 is the right approach rather than Schedule C?

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