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I'm going through the exact same thing right now! Got my letter last week and honestly the whole process feels overwhelming. From what I've been reading here it sounds like the key is just being persistent and having all your documents ready. Really appreciate everyone sharing their experiences - makes me feel less alone in this stressful situation. Definitely going to try calling early morning like @Lilah Brooks suggested!
You're definitely not alone in this! I just went through the same thing a couple months ago and yeah it's super stressful when you're depending on that refund. The early morning call tip is gold - I wish I had known that when I was dealing with it. Also make sure you have everything organized beforehand because they move pretty quickly once you get connected. The waiting is the worst part but it does eventually get resolved!
Just went through this exact same thing 2 months ago! The identity verification was definitely stressful but here's what I learned: 1) The ID.me route can be glitchy but if you have good internet and lighting it usually works on the 2nd try, 2) Keep checking your transcript every Friday - that's when most updates happen, 3) Once you see your 846 refund code appear, you'll typically get your money within 3-5 business days. The whole process from verification to refund took me about 5 weeks. Stay patient - I know it's hard when you need the money but it will come through!
This is super helpful! The Friday transcript update tip is something I hadn't heard before - definitely going to start checking then instead of obsessively refreshing every day lol. Question though - when you say the 846 refund code appears, does that mean the money is basically guaranteed at that point or could there still be delays? Just trying to manage my expectations here since I'm really counting on this refund š
Has anyone thought about the mortgage implications here? OP, you mentioned your parents said the house is "paid off" - but if there's still a mortgage on it when they gift it to you, that could be considered additional gift value or even trigger a due-on-sale clause with their lender. My sister ran into this issue last year. My parents "gifted" her their second home, but there was still a $97k mortgage. The IRS considered the gift to be the house PLUS taking over the debt! Created a whole mess with the gift tax forms.
That's a great point. I went through this exact situation and had to pay off the remaining mortgage before the property transfer could happen. The bank wouldn't allow assumption of the mortgage without a whole new application process, credit check and closing costs. Also worth mentioning - if there's still a mortgage, you'll need to check if it has a due-on-sale clause (most do). Even though a gift isn't technically a "sale," many banks consider any transfer of title as triggering that clause, meaning the entire loan could become due immediately upon transfer.
Great question! I went through something very similar with my parents' property in 2022. Based on my experience and research, option #3 is definitely your best route - having them gift you the house first, then selling it yourself. Here's why this works so well in your situation: You'll inherit their cost basis (around $170k with improvements), but since you've lived there as your primary residence continuously since 2012, you'll qualify for the full $250k capital gains exclusion. With your projected gain of about $205k ($375k - $170k), you'd likely owe zero capital gains tax. A few important considerations I learned the hard way: - Make sure the house is truly paid off before transfer. Any remaining mortgage can complicate the gift valuation. - Your parents will need to file Form 709 for the gift tax return, but won't owe any actual tax unless they've exceeded their lifetime exemption. - Consider waiting 2-4 weeks between receiving the gift and listing the property to avoid any appearance of a coordinated sale. - Check your state's transfer tax rules - some states have exemptions for parent-child transfers. The old "rollover" rules for deferring capital gains by buying another home were eliminated in 1997, so you can't defer the tax that way. But with the primary residence exclusion, you probably won't need to! I'd definitely recommend consulting with a tax professional to run the exact numbers for your situation, but this approach saved me about $35k in taxes compared to other options.
This is exactly the kind of detailed, experience-based advice I was hoping to find! Thank you for sharing your real-world experience with this situation. The $35k savings you mentioned really puts things in perspective. I'm particularly glad you mentioned the waiting period between gift and sale - I was wondering about that timing issue after reading some of the other comments. 2-4 weeks seems very reasonable and definitely worth doing to avoid any potential IRS scrutiny. One follow-up question: when you had your parents file Form 709, did that process take a long time or create any complications? I'm trying to get a sense of the timeline for the whole process from gift to sale to closing on the new property. Did you use a tax professional for the Form 709 or was it straightforward enough to handle yourself?
Am I the only one who thinks it's ridiculous that student aid can be taxable at all??? The government gives us grants because we need financial help for college, then turns around and taxes us on that same money? Make it make sense. š
It's only taxable if you use it for non-educational expenses like housing and food. But I agree it's still stupid because we obviously need somewhere to live and food to eat while we're studying! Those should count as educational expenses too.
I completely understand your frustration - dealing with scholarship taxation can be really stressful! From what I've learned through my own experience and research, the key is tracking exactly how you used the refund money. Since you mentioned using the $1750 for rent and groceries, that portion would likely be considered taxable income. However, if you also purchased any required textbooks, lab supplies, or other course materials with scholarship money during the same academic year, you might be able to reduce the taxable amount. My advice would be to gather all your receipts and records from that semester - tuition bills, book purchases, required supplies, etc. Calculate your total qualified educational expenses and compare that to your total scholarship/grant amount. Only the excess beyond qualified expenses needs to be reported as income. Also, don't stress too much about perfect precision if you can't find every receipt. The IRS expects reasonable estimates based on your best recollection. Just be honest and consistent in how you calculate it. You've got this!
This is really helpful advice! I'm in a similar situation and have been worried about getting it wrong. Quick question - when you say "required supplies," does that include things like a graphing calculator or laptop if they're required for your program? I had to buy a specific calculator for my engineering courses that cost like $150. Also, do online access codes for textbooks count as qualified expenses? Those things are so expensive but technically required for coursework.
Be careful with dependent care FSAs - they're typically "use it or lose it" by the end of the plan year! I set aside $5000 last year and then our childcare situation changed (my mother-in-law retired and started watching the kids 3 days a week). We only spent about $3200 on paid childcare and LOST the remaining $1800 we had contributed! Still kicking myself over that one. Make sure you're very confident about your childcare expenses before committing to the full $5000.
Some plans offer a grace period though! My company's FSA gives until March 15th of the following year to use funds. Worth checking if your plan has this feature.
Great question! I went through this exact same analysis last year. At your income level ($165k), you're definitely in a tax bracket where the Dependent Care FSA makes financial sense. Here's what I learned: The Child Tax Credit ($2,000 per qualifying child) is completely separate from childcare expenses and won't be affected by using the FSA. You'll still get the full $4,000 for your twins regardless. The FSA saves you taxes on that $5,000 contribution - at your income level, that's probably around $1,200-1,500 in tax savings depending on your state taxes. Since you're spending way more than $5,000 on daycare anyway, you're guaranteed to use the full amount. The "hassle" factor was my biggest concern too, but honestly it's pretty minimal. Most employers have mobile apps now where you just snap photos of receipts and submit them. I probably spend 10 minutes total per quarter on FSA paperwork. One tip: make sure to ask about your plan's grace period or rollover rules. Some plans let you carry over a small amount ($610 this year) or give you extra time to spend the money. Definitely worth maxing it out in your situation!
This breakdown is really helpful! I'm curious about one thing though - you mentioned the FSA saves around $1,200-1,500 in taxes at the $165k income level. Is that calculation based on federal taxes only, or does it include state taxes too? We're in a state with income tax, so I'm wondering if the savings would be even higher than that estimate. Also, do you know if the FSA contribution affects your AGI for other tax benefit calculations?
Sofia Perez
This is a great question and the answers here have been really thorough! Just to add one more perspective - I've noticed this rounding thing with my refunds for years but never really thought about it until now. What's interesting is that sometimes my refund would be a few cents higher than expected, and other times a few cents lower. Now I understand it's all about how the various numbers on my return get rounded before the final calculations. For anyone else wondering about this, I found that looking at the actual PDF of your submitted tax forms (which most tax software lets you download) will show you exactly what numbers were sent to the IRS - all in whole dollars. That way you can see the "official" calculation that the IRS used versus what the software showed you during preparation. Definitely not worth stressing over a few cents, but it's good to understand why it happens!
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AstroAlpha
ā¢This is such a helpful thread! I had the exact same confusion when I got my first refund last year. I was expecting $1,247.33 and received exactly $1,247.00, and I thought maybe there was an error or fee I didn't know about. Now I understand it's just the normal rounding process. It's actually pretty smart that the IRS standardized on whole dollars - probably makes their processing much simpler. Thanks everyone for explaining this so clearly!
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Libby Hassan
This thread has been incredibly informative! As someone who's been filing taxes for over a decade, I'm embarrassed to admit I never really paid attention to this rounding thing until reading all these responses. I just went back and checked my last few years of refunds, and sure enough, they're all whole dollar amounts even though my tax software always showed cents in the calculations. It's one of those things that's so obvious once it's explained, but I just assumed the IRS was super precise with cents like banks are. The explanation about each line item being rounded individually before final calculations makes perfect sense too. I can see how that would lead to small differences between what your tax software displays during preparation versus the final amount the IRS processes. Thanks to everyone who shared their expertise here - this is exactly the kind of practical tax knowledge that should be more widely understood!
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