IRS

Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.

Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.



Fox KTVUABC 7CBSSan Francisco Chronicle

Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls โ€“ which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

Read all of our Trustpilot reviews


Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

Keisha Johnson

โ€ข

Quick question - has anyone done a partial withdrawal instead of taking everything out? I'm in a similar situation and wondering if that might be better tax-wise than one lump sum.

0 coins

Paolo Rizzo

โ€ข

I did this last year - took out about 40% of my old 401k and left the rest. It helped keep me in a lower tax bracket, plus I didn't completely derail my retirement savings. The W-4R form works the same way though - you still need to fill it out for partial withdrawals.

0 coins

Mikayla Brown

โ€ข

Just wanted to add something important that I learned the hard way - if you're planning to do this withdrawal in December like I did, be extra careful about your withholding calculation. The lump sum withdrawal pushed me way up in tax brackets for that year, and the 20% default withholding wasn't nearly enough. What really caught me off guard was that the 401k withdrawal counts as ordinary income, not capital gains, so it gets taxed at your regular income tax rates. When you add a big withdrawal to your regular salary, it can bump you into the next bracket pretty quickly. I ended up having to make an estimated tax payment in January to avoid penalties. My advice: if you're not sure about the math, consider having them withhold 25-30% instead of the default 20%, especially if this withdrawal will significantly increase your total income for the year. It's better to get a refund than owe a big chunk plus penalties!

0 coins

Carmen Diaz

โ€ข

This is really helpful advice! I'm planning to do my withdrawal in early January specifically to avoid the year-end tax complications you mentioned. Question though - when you say "estimated tax payment," is that something you have to calculate yourself or does the IRS send you a bill? I'm trying to figure out all the potential costs upfront so I don't get blindsided.

0 coins

Ella Harper

โ€ข

This is such a great discussion! I've been dealing with the same issue trying to understand my paychecks better. One thing I'd add is that if you have access to your company's employee portal or HR system, sometimes they have calculators or tools that can help with this. My employer uses ADP and they have a "net pay estimator" that works in reverse - you can input different gross amounts and see what the net would be, which helps you narrow down the right gross amount through trial and error. Also, for anyone who gets confused by all the tax calculations, I found it helpful to think of it in terms of effective tax rates. Once you know your overall effective rate (total taxes divided by gross pay), you can use that for quick estimates. Like if your effective rate is 25%, then your take-home is roughly 75% of gross. The percentage method several people mentioned really is the most practical approach for regular paychecks. I've been using it for months now and it's accurate within a few dollars most of the time. Just remember to recalculate your baseline percentage if you get a raise or your tax situation changes!

0 coins

QuantumLeap

โ€ข

The ADP net pay estimator tip is really valuable! I hadn't thought to check if my company's HR portal had tools like that. I just logged into our system and found we have something similar through our payroll provider. It's not quite reverse calculation, but like you said, I can trial-and-error different gross amounts until I get close to my known net pay. Your point about effective tax rates is a great way to think about it too. I calculated mine and it's sitting around 23% total between federal, state, Social Security and Medicare. So roughly 77% take-home, which aligns pretty well with the percentage method everyone's been discussing. I'm definitely going to start tracking my net-to-gross ratios over the next few paychecks to see how consistent they are. This whole thread has been incredibly educational - I had no idea payroll calculations were this nuanced! Thanks for sharing the ADP tip, that's going to save me a lot of manual math.

0 coins

Alexander Zeus

โ€ข

I've been following this thread and wanted to share another approach that's worked well for me - using Excel or Google Sheets to create a simple reverse calculator. I set up a spreadsheet with the standard deduction rates (6.2% Social Security, 1.45% Medicare) and then used trial-and-error with different gross amounts until the calculated net matched my actual deposit. It sounds tedious but once you set up the formulas, it only takes a few minutes to find the right gross amount. The key insight I discovered is that for most people with straightforward tax situations, the federal withholding ends up being a fairly consistent percentage of gross pay over multiple paychecks. So after I figured out my effective federal rate from a few calculations, I could just plug that into my spreadsheet formula. For your $675 net, my guess based on typical withholding patterns would be somewhere around $875-$925 gross, but obviously that depends on your state and filing status. The spreadsheet approach lets you get the exact number rather than estimating!

0 coins

Oliver Becker

โ€ข

The Excel/Google Sheets approach sounds really smart! I love that you can build it once and then reuse it. Would you be willing to share what your formula looks like? I'm decent with spreadsheets but I'm not sure how to structure the trial-and-error part efficiently. Also, your estimate of $875-$925 gross for the $675 net is really helpful as another data point. That's pretty consistent with what others have suggested in this thread. It's reassuring to see multiple people arriving at similar ballpark figures using different methods. I'm curious - when you say you figured out your "effective federal rate," are you including just the federal income tax withholding, or are you lumping together all the federal taxes (income tax + Social Security + Medicare)? I want to make sure I'm thinking about this the same way when I try to build my own calculator.

0 coins

Yuki Sato

โ€ข

I went through this exact same situation last year and it was so confusing at first! The key thing to remember is that the 1099-G is issued based on when you RECEIVED the refund, not when you filed the return that generated it. So if you got a state refund in 2024 (even if it was from your 2023 tax return), you'll get a 1099-G reporting that refund. The question is whether you need to report it as income on your 2024 federal return. Since you mentioned you typically take the standard deduction, you're probably in the clear. The state refund is only taxable if you itemized deductions on the federal return for the tax year that generated the refund AND you actually received a tax benefit from deducting state taxes paid. Keep the 1099-G with your tax records, but if you took the standard deduction on your 2023 federal return, you can ignore it for tax purposes. The state has to send these forms to everyone who received a refund over a certain amount, regardless of whether it's actually taxable to the individual recipient.

0 coins

Dylan Hughes

โ€ข

This is exactly the kind of clear explanation I needed! I was getting confused by all the different tax years involved. So to make sure I understand - the 1099-G I received reports a 2024 refund that came from my 2023 tax return, and since I took the standard deduction on that 2023 return, this refund isn't taxable income for my 2024 return I'm filing now. It's reassuring to know that the state has to send these forms to everyone regardless of tax implications. I was worried I had missed something important or made an error somewhere. Thanks for breaking down the timeline so clearly!

0 coins

Yuki Tanaka

โ€ข

I'm glad to see so many helpful responses here! As someone who works in tax preparation, I can confirm that the advice about standard deduction vs. itemizing is spot on. One additional tip I'd add - if you're unsure whether you itemized or took the standard deduction on your previous year's return, look at line 12 of your Form 1040 from that year. If there's an amount there, you itemized. If it's blank or zero, you took the standard deduction. Also, don't panic if you get multiple 1099-G forms from different years or different states. I've seen clients get forms for refunds that were delayed due to processing backlogs or address changes. Each form will show the year the refund was actually issued, which helps you figure out which tax return it applies to. The most important thing is to keep good records. Even if the refund isn't taxable, hold onto that 1099-G form with your other tax documents. The IRS has a copy too, so if there are ever any questions down the line, you'll want to be able to show why you didn't report it as income.

0 coins

Dominic Green

โ€ข

This is really helpful advice about checking line 12 on the previous year's Form 1040! I never knew that was how you could tell if you itemized or not. As someone new to dealing with these kinds of tax forms, I really appreciate all the detailed explanations in this thread. It's reassuring to know that getting a 1099-G doesn't automatically mean you owe more taxes - it really depends on how you filed your previous return. The record-keeping tip is also great since it sounds like the IRS already knows about these forms anyway. One quick question - if someone moves between states, could they potentially get 1099-G forms from multiple states for the same tax year? Just curious since you mentioned seeing clients with multiple forms.

0 coins

Thanks for starting this discussion! I'm actually dealing with a very similar situation with my small business. I rent a storefront and have been paying through a property management company all year, but I got nervous when I saw some conflicting information online about 1099 requirements. Reading through everyone's responses here has been really helpful - it sounds like the consensus is that when you pay through a management company, they handle the 1099-MISC reporting to the actual property owner, not the tenant. That's a relief! I do have one follow-up question though: Does it matter if the lease agreement is signed with the property owner directly, but payments are made to the management company? My lease shows the owner's name but all my rent checks go to "[Property Management Company] on behalf of [Owner's Name]". Just want to make sure this doesn't create any weird reporting obligations for me. Also really appreciate the advice about keeping detailed records. I've been pretty good about saving my cancelled checks but hadn't thought about keeping copies of lease communications - will definitely start doing that going forward!

0 coins

Lilah Brooks

โ€ข

Your payment setup sounds completely standard and doesn't create any additional reporting obligations for you! When the management company is acting as the agent for the property owner (which is exactly what "on behalf of" indicates), they're still the ones responsible for issuing any required 1099-MISC forms to the owner. The fact that your lease is directly with the owner but payments go through their management company is actually very common. You're essentially paying the owner through their designated agent, so the management company handles all the tax reporting responsibilities that go with collecting and disbursing those rental payments. Keep doing exactly what you're doing with the record keeping - those cancelled checks showing payments to the management company are perfect documentation for your business expense deduction. The lease agreement showing the owner's name just helps establish the business purpose of the expense, but doesn't change who handles the 1099 reporting. You're all set on this front! Focus your energy on other aspects of tax prep and don't stress about the 1099-MISC issue for your rent payments.

0 coins

Benjamin Kim

โ€ข

This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm actually an accountant who works with a lot of small business clients, and I see this confusion about 1099-MISC requirements for commercial rent come up constantly. Just to reinforce what others have said - when you pay rent through a property management company, you are NOT responsible for issuing 1099-MISC forms. The management company handles that reporting to the property owner. This is true even if your lease is directly with the owner but payments flow through the management company. However, I do want to emphasize something that was touched on earlier: if you pay rent DIRECTLY to an individual property owner (not a corporation) and the total exceeds $600 per year, then yes, you would need to issue a 1099-MISC. Always collect a W-9 form from individual landlords at the start of your lease to get their tax information. For your business tax return, you can deduct the rent expense regardless of whether a 1099-MISC is issued or required. Just maintain good documentation of your payments as several people mentioned - this is crucial for supporting your deduction. One last tip: if you're ever unsure about your specific situation, consider having your lease agreement reviewed by a tax professional. Commercial leases can have complex structures that might affect how you categorize different payment components for tax purposes.

0 coins

Lia Quinn

โ€ข

This is exactly the kind of professional insight I was hoping to find! As someone just starting out in business, it's reassuring to get confirmation from an actual accountant about these requirements. I have a quick question about the W-9 collection process you mentioned. When should I request this from a landlord - right when signing the lease, or can I wait until closer to year-end when I'm preparing tax documents? I'm always worried about seeming unprofessional by asking for tax forms too early in the relationship. Also, you mentioned having lease agreements reviewed for complex structures - are there specific red flags or clauses that typically create tax complications that a new business owner should watch out for? Thanks for taking the time to share your expertise here!

0 coins

Savannah Glover

โ€ข

This has been such an informative discussion! I'm actually in a very similar position - been day trading for about 7 months now with roughly 240 trades, spending 4-5 hours daily during market hours. I was also initially discouraged from claiming any business deductions by my regular CPA, but this thread has really opened my eyes to what might be possible. What strikes me most is how consistent everyone's experience has been with general tax preparers not understanding trader tax status. It seems like finding a specialist who actually knows this area is absolutely crucial. The documentation strategies everyone has shared are incredibly helpful too - I'm definitely going to start keeping more detailed daily logs and take photos of my exclusive trading setup. One question I have that I haven't seen fully addressed: For those of you who successfully transitioned from thinking you were just investors to claiming trader status, was there any concern about consistency with prior year tax returns? I claimed everything as capital gains/losses on Schedule D last year, but if I qualify as a trader this year, I'm wondering if that creates any issues or if the IRS expects you to have been consistent from the beginning. Also, I'm curious about the practical aspects of the home office deduction calculation. For those using the actual expense method, do you calculate utilities, mortgage interest, etc. based on the square footage percentage, or is there more complexity to it? Thanks to everyone for sharing such detailed real-world experiences - this is exactly the kind of practical guidance that's impossible to find in generic tax advice!

0 coins

Zainab Ismail

โ€ข

Great questions! Regarding consistency with prior years - don't worry about this. The IRS recognizes that traders can evolve from investors as their activity patterns change. Many people start as casual investors and develop into traders over time. What matters is whether your current year activity meets trader criteria, not what you did previously. Just make sure you can document when and why your trading pattern shifted to meet trader status requirements. For the home office actual expense method calculation, yes, it's primarily based on square footage percentage, but there are some nuances. You calculate the percentage of your home used for business (trading room square footage รท total home square footage), then apply that percentage to qualifying home expenses like mortgage interest, property taxes, utilities, insurance, and repairs. You'll also depreciate that percentage of your home's basis. Form 8829 walks through this calculation step by step. Your 240 trades in 7 months with 4-5 daily hours definitely sounds like trader-level activity. The key documentation points everyone has mentioned - daily logs, exclusive use photos, expense receipts - will serve you well. I'd echo the advice about finding a trader-specialist CPA. The investment in proper tax preparation has paid for itself many times over in legitimate deductions I might have missed otherwise. Welcome to taking control of your trader tax situation - it's empowering once you understand what you're actually entitled to claim!

0 coins

Carmen Sanchez

โ€ข

I'm just starting my trading journey but this thread has been incredibly educational! I've been doing about 15-20 trades per month for the past 3 months while learning different strategies, and I'm planning to significantly increase my activity once I feel more confident. Reading everyone's experiences, it's clear that proper documentation from the beginning is absolutely crucial. I'm setting up a dedicated trading space and starting to track my hours systematically, even though I probably don't meet trader status criteria yet. One thing I'm curious about - for those who eventually qualified as traders, was there a specific point where you felt confident making the transition from treating trades as capital gains to claiming business expenses? I want to make sure I don't jump too early, but I also don't want to miss out on legitimate deductions once I do qualify. Also, I'm wondering about the learning curve for tax software. For those using TurboTax or similar programs, did you find it straightforward to enter trader business expenses, or did you eventually need to switch to more specialized tax software or professional preparation? Thanks to everyone for sharing such detailed experiences - this is exactly the kind of real-world guidance that newcomers like me need to understand what we're getting into from a tax perspective!

0 coins

Prev1...1314151617...5643Next