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I had this exact same issue a few weeks ago! Super frustrating when you need your transcript urgently. What worked for me was actually a combination of things - first I cleared all my browser data (cookies, cache, everything), then I tried accessing the site at like 6 AM when their servers aren't as loaded. When I still got the authorization error, I ended up going through the full ID verification process again which was annoying but only took about 15 minutes. The key is having all your documents ready beforehand - SSN, last year's AGI, a credit card or bank account number for verification, and your phone for the text code. Once I got back in, I made sure to bookmark the direct transcript page and log in monthly now so it doesn't happen again. Good luck with your mortgage application!
Thanks for the detailed walkthrough! The 6 AM tip is genius - I never thought about server load being an issue. Definitely going to try that combo approach before diving into the full verification process. Really appreciate you mentioning the monthly login thing too, that's a great tip to avoid this headache in the future!
This happened to me too about a month ago! Super annoying timing since I was also dealing with a mortgage application. What finally worked for me was using incognito/private browsing mode after clearing all my cookies. Sometimes the IRS site gets confused with old session data. If that doesn't work, the verification process isn't too bad - just make sure you have your AGI from last year's return handy since that's usually what trips people up. The whole thing took me maybe 20 minutes once I had everything ready. Hope you get it sorted quickly for your mortgage app!
For a super simple return with just an HSA, I've been using H&R Block's free online version for years. They still include HSA Form 8889 in their free tier unlike TurboTax. Their interface isn't as slick but it gets the job done without the surprise fees.
Can confirm this. H&R Block free online handled my HSA no problem. Just make sure you go through their free edition link directly, not through a paid listing or advertisement.
I went through this exact same frustration last year! TurboTax definitely changed their policy on HSAs - it used to be included in the free version. The $120 total cost is outrageous for such a simple return. I ended up switching to FreeTaxUSA and it's been great. HSAs are handled completely free on the federal return, and state filing is only $15. The interface isn't as flashy as TurboTax but it walks you through everything clearly. I've used it for two years now with my HSA and haven't had any issues. The IRS Free File program is also worth checking if your AGI is under $73K - several participating companies offer completely free filing including HSA support. Don't let TurboTax's marketing fool you into thinking you need their overpriced service for something this basic!
Thanks for confirming this! It's so frustrating that TurboTax moved HSAs to paid tiers when they used to be free. I'm definitely going to try FreeTaxUSA - $15 for state filing sounds way more reasonable than TurboTax's $120 total. Did you have any trouble importing your previous year's return from TurboTax, or did you have to start fresh?
From personal experience with our family's C corp, you should also consider whether the buyout affects your company's S corporation eligibility for the future, if that's something you might want to pursue. After our shareholder redemption, we realized we finally had the right ownership structure to elect S status and save on taxes.
That's actually super helpful! We've been thinking about S corp conversion down the road but didn't connect it to this buyout situation. How long did you have to wait after the shareholder change before making the S election? Any gotchas we should know about?
One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is the importance of getting a proper business valuation if you haven't already. The IRS can challenge the purchase price in an audit if it seems unreasonable compared to fair market value, especially in closely-held C corporations where arm's length transactions are rare. We learned this the hard way when our initial buyout price was based on book value rather than fair market value. The IRS questioned whether part of the "purchase price" was actually disguised compensation to the departing shareholder, which would have changed the tax treatment completely. We ended up getting a formal appraisal from a certified business appraiser after the fact to support our position. Also, make sure your corporate minutes clearly document the business purpose for the buyout - resolving shareholder disputes, eliminating management conflicts, etc. The IRS looks for legitimate business reasons beyond just wanting to change ownership percentages. Keep detailed records of the meetings where the decision was made and the rationale discussed.
This is such an important point about the valuation! I'm actually dealing with a similar situation right now where we're in the middle of a shareholder buyout, and our attorney recommended getting the formal appraisal upfront to avoid exactly the kind of problems you described. Quick question though - when you say the IRS questioned whether part of the purchase price was disguised compensation, how did that play out? Did they try to reclassify it as wages subject to payroll taxes, or was it more about the capital gains treatment for the departing shareholder? I want to make sure we structure our documentation properly to avoid any red flags. Also, did you find that having the formal appraisal done by a certified business appraiser was worth the cost? We're looking at spending several thousand dollars for the valuation, but if it prevents audit issues down the road, it sounds like money well spent.
Diego, you're absolutely right to question this! The double taxation concern is totally valid, but the good news is you can avoid it with proper planning. First, check if you qualify for Traditional IRA deductions based on your income and workplace retirement plan status. If you do qualify, claiming those deductions on your tax return will essentially "undo" the initial taxation on that money. If you don't qualify for deductions due to income limits, you're making non-deductible contributions and should file Form 8606 each year to track your "basis" (money already taxed). This protects you so that when you withdraw in retirement, you only pay tax on the growth, not the contributions you already paid tax on. One alternative to consider: if you're above the income limits for Traditional IRA deductions, you might want to look into a Roth IRA instead (if eligible) or a backdoor Roth conversion strategy. With Roth, you pay taxes upfront but withdrawals in retirement are completely tax-free. The key principle: you should never pay tax twice on the same dollar. Either you get the deduction now and pay tax later (Traditional), or you pay tax now and never again (Roth). Make sure you're taking advantage of whichever strategy fits your situation!
@Liam O'Sullivan This is really helpful! I'm just starting to learn about retirement accounts and had no idea there were so many options and strategies. The way you explained the "pay tax once" principle really clarifies things. Quick question - you mentioned checking income limits for Traditional IRA deductions. Is there an easy way to estimate what my Modified AGI will be, or do I basically have to wait until I'm doing my taxes to know for sure? I want to make sure I'm choosing the right strategy throughout the year, not just figuring it out at tax time. Also, when you mention the backdoor Roth strategy, is that something a regular person can do themselves, or do you need a financial advisor to set that up properly?
@Megan D'Acosta Great questions! For estimating your Modified AGI throughout the year, you can get a pretty good estimate by looking at your pay stubs and calculating your expected annual gross income, then subtracting any pre-tax deductions like 401k contributions, health insurance premiums, etc. Most payroll systems also show your year-to-date gross income, which helps with projections. If your income is fairly stable, you can usually predict within a few thousand dollars where you'll land. As for the backdoor Roth, it's actually something you can absolutely do yourself! The process is: 1) Contribute to a Traditional IRA (non-deductible), 2) Convert it to a Roth IRA shortly after. Most major brokerages like Fidelity, Vanguard, and Schwab have simple online processes for both steps. The key is doing the conversion quickly to minimize any earnings that would be taxable. Just make sure to file Form 8606 to properly report the non-deductible contribution. While you can do it yourself, if you have other Traditional IRA money that complicates the pro-rata rules, it might be worth consulting a tax professional for that first year to make sure you do it right.
Diego, you've stumbled onto one of the most confusing aspects of retirement planning, but don't worry - you're NOT getting double-taxed if you handle this correctly! The confusion comes from thinking that all Traditional IRA contributions are "after-tax" just because the money came from your bank account. But here's the key: Traditional IRA contributions are usually TAX-DEDUCTIBLE, which means you get to subtract them from your taxable income when you file your return. So here's what should happen: You contribute money from your checking account β You claim the Traditional IRA deduction on your tax return β This reduces your taxable income and essentially gives you back the taxes you already paid on that money β When you withdraw in retirement, you pay taxes then (but only once, not twice). However, there are income limits for these deductions. If you make too much money or have certain workplace retirement plans, you might not qualify for the full deduction. In that case, you'd file Form 8606 to track your "basis" (money already taxed) so you don't get taxed again on those contributions when you withdraw. Check your eligibility for the deduction first - most people qualify and can avoid the double taxation entirely. If you've been missing these deductions on past returns, you can file amended returns to claim them. You haven't messed up your retirement planning, you just need to make sure you're taking advantage of the tax benefits available to you!
ElectricDreamer
I have an S corp making about $200k/year while I work full-time elsewhere. My accountant made me set up payroll and take a $60k salary even though I argued I barely spend time on it. His reasoning: if your business makes good money, the IRS assumes you're providing valuable services. Think about it this way - if your business is successful enough to make $400-650k, someone's expertise is driving that success. If it's yours, you need to be compensated with a reasonable salary. The reasonable salary doesn't mean you have to take all profits as salary - just what would be reasonable for the services you provide. The rest can still be distributions.
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Ava Johnson
β’What payroll service do you use for your S corp? I'm at the point where I need to set one up but there are so many options.
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Mateo Silva
I went through this exact situation two years ago and learned the hard way that the IRS doesn't care about your other employment when it comes to S corp salary requirements. I was making $120k at my day job and my S corp was pulling in about $300k, but I wasn't paying myself any salary from the business. Got audited and the IRS agent was very clear: if your S corp is generating substantial profit and you're providing services (even part-time), you need reasonable compensation. They don't look at your total income across all sources - they look at each entity separately. I ended up having to pay back payroll taxes plus penalties. My advice: once your S corp is consistently profitable (especially at the levels you're talking about), set up payroll immediately. The "reasonable" salary depends on your industry and role, but for a business making $400-650k, you're definitely looking at a significant salary requirement. The Medicare taxes alone make it worth getting this right from the start. Don't make the same mistake I did - the penalties and interest add up fast.
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Amara Okafor
β’Thanks for sharing your audit experience - that's really helpful to hear a real-world example of what happens when you don't take salary from a profitable S corp. Can you share what salary amount you ended up having to establish after the audit? I'm trying to get a sense of what the IRS actually considers "reasonable" for different profit levels. Also, did they make you pay back taxes for previous years or just going forward?
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