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NebulaNomad

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Slightly off topic but does anyone know if section 179 vehicles have to be over 6000 lbs? Im looking at buying a work vehicle but I'm not sure if my SUV qualifies.

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Yes, to get the full Section 179 deduction for SUVs, they need to have a gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) over 6,000 pounds. Vehicles under that weight are subject to much lower limitations. Most full-size SUVs like Tahoes, Expeditions, etc. qualify, but you should check the specific weight rating of your model.

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Yuki Tanaka

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I'd strongly recommend consulting with a tax professional before making any moves here. The recapture rules for Section 179 are pretty strict - when you sell that truck, you'll likely owe ordinary income tax on the sale proceeds up to the amount you originally deducted ($98k). One thing to consider is the timing of both transactions. If you're planning to buy another qualifying vehicle this year, you might want to structure the timing so that the recapture income from the sale is partially offset by the new Section 179 deduction. This won't eliminate the tax hit entirely, but it could help manage the cash flow impact. Also keep in mind that there are annual limits on Section 179 deductions ($1,160,000 for 2023), so make sure you have enough "room" left if you've already taken other business deductions this year. The rules can get complex when you're dealing with multiple transactions in the same tax year.

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Khalid Howes

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This is really helpful advice about timing the transactions. I'm curious though - if someone sells in December and buys the new vehicle in January, would that split the recapture income and new deduction across two different tax years? That might actually make the tax planning more complicated rather than helpful, right?

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StarStrider

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Great question about EPD! You're actually thinking about this correctly - the $65 in distributions you received likely aren't immediately taxable because they're classified as a return of capital that reduces your tax basis in the partnership. Here's what's happening: EPD typically generates significant depreciation and depletion deductions that flow through to partners, which is why your K-1 shows negative income. The distributions exceed your allocated share of taxable income, so the excess reduces your basis rather than creating a current tax liability. The key things to track going forward: 1. Your original purchase price (basis) 2. Each year's distributions (these reduce basis) 3. Any income/loss allocations from the K-1 4. Your adjusted basis = original basis - cumulative distributions + cumulative income allocations You'll need this information when you eventually sell to calculate your capital gain/loss. Also keep in mind that any suspended passive losses from the partnership can typically be used to offset gains when you dispose of your entire interest in EPD. So yes, you're being appropriately optimistic - no immediate tax liability for 2023 from your EPD investment!

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Amy Fleming

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This is exactly the kind of clear explanation I was hoping for! Thank you for breaking down the basis tracking - I hadn't realized I needed to keep such detailed records of the cumulative distributions and income allocations. One quick clarification: when you mention "suspended passive losses," does this mean if I have other passive income in future years (like rental property income), I could potentially use the EPD losses against that? Or do the suspended losses only become usable when I sell the entire EPD position? Also, is there a specific form I should be keeping track of this basis information on, or is a simple spreadsheet sufficient for now?

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Great questions! For suspended passive losses, you have two potential ways to use them: 1. **Against other passive income**: Yes, if you have rental property income or income from other passive activities in future years, you can use your suspended EPD losses to offset that passive income on an annual basis. 2. **Upon disposition**: When you sell your entire EPD position, any remaining suspended losses become fully deductible against any type of income (not just passive), which can be quite valuable. Regarding record-keeping, a simple spreadsheet is absolutely sufficient for now. The IRS doesn't require a specific form for tracking basis - you just need to maintain accurate records. I'd suggest columns for: - Date - Transaction type (purchase/distribution/K-1 income or loss) - Amount - Running basis balance Many investors also keep a separate tab tracking suspended losses by year. Just make sure to keep all your K-1s and brokerage statements as supporting documentation. When you eventually sell, you'll report the final gain/loss calculation on Schedule D, but the detailed tracking can be done however works best for you organizationally.

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As someone who's dealt with EPD and other MLPs for several years, I wanted to add a few practical tips that might help you going forward: First, EPD typically sends out their K-1s quite late in tax season (often March), so plan accordingly if you're eager to file early. Second, consider setting up a simple tracking system now - I use a basic Excel sheet with tabs for each MLP I own, tracking original basis, annual distributions, and K-1 income/losses. One thing that caught me off guard initially was that even though you're not paying tax on the distributions now, you'll want to consider the tax implications when you do eventually sell. Since your basis keeps getting reduced by the distributions, you might end up with a larger capital gain than you initially expect. Also, if you're planning to buy more EPD shares, be aware that additional purchases will have their own basis tracking requirements. Each lot purchased will have its own cost basis that gets reduced by the proportional share of distributions. The good news is that EPD has been pretty consistent with their distribution policy, so the tax treatment should remain fairly predictable year over year. Just keep good records and you'll be fine!

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This is really helpful advice! I'm curious about your comment regarding additional EPD purchases - if I buy more shares throughout the year at different prices, how exactly does the proportional distribution tracking work? Do I need to calculate what percentage of my total holdings each purchase represents and then allocate distributions accordingly? Also, you mentioned EPD sends K-1s out late - is there any way to estimate what my tax situation will be before the K-1 arrives, or do I just have to wait? I'm trying to do some preliminary tax planning and it would be nice to have at least a rough idea of whether I'll have taxable income or more basis reduction.

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Mei Chen

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This thread has been incredibly informative! I'm also doing tax loss harvesting for the first time this year and had the exact same confusion about the December 31 deadline. One additional consideration I learned from my research: if you're planning to harvest losses but also want to maintain exposure to the market, you might want to consider using the proceeds to immediately buy a similar (but not substantially identical) investment to avoid missing out on potential gains while staying compliant with wash sale rules. For example, if you're selling an individual stock at a loss, you could use those proceeds to buy a broad market ETF, or if you're selling a large-cap growth fund, you might switch to a total market fund temporarily. Just make sure to wait the full 31 days before buying back the original position if you want to avoid wash sale treatment. Thanks everyone for confirming the December 31 trade date rule - that removes a lot of uncertainty from my year-end planning!

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Sunny Wang

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Great strategy on maintaining market exposure while harvesting losses! I'm doing something similar this year. One thing I discovered is that some brokerages actually have built-in tools to help identify "substantially identical" securities to help you avoid wash sales when doing these substitution trades. For anyone else reading this, I'd also recommend checking if your brokerage offers tax loss harvesting previews or calculators - mine shows me exactly how much I could save before I execute the trades, which has been super helpful for planning. The December 31 deadline definitely gives us flexibility, but having a clear strategy like yours for reinvestment makes the whole process much smoother. Thanks for sharing that approach - it's exactly what I needed to hear as I finalize my own year-end tax planning!

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This has been such a valuable discussion! As someone who's been putting off tax loss harvesting because I was confused about the timing, you've all given me the confidence to finally execute my strategy. Just to summarize what I've learned for anyone else who might be reading this: - December 31st is the absolute deadline (trade date, not settlement date) - After-hours trades on 12/31 still count for the current tax year - Watch out for wash sale rules (30 days before/after) - Keep good documentation, especially for last-minute trades - Consider the order of trades (losses first, then gains) - Be mindful of mutual fund distribution dates I'm planning to sell my underperforming positions this week to avoid any last-minute stress, but it's reassuring to know I have until December 31st if needed. The tools mentioned (taxr.ai for analysis and Claimyr for IRS questions) also sound like they could be really helpful resources. Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences and expertise - this community is amazing!

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Evelyn Xu

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This is such a comprehensive summary, thank you! As someone who's been lurking and learning from this thread, I really appreciate how you've organized all the key points. I'm in a similar boat - have been procrastinating on tax loss harvesting because the rules seemed so confusing, but this discussion has cleared up all my major questions. One thing I'm still wondering about: if I'm harvesting losses from individual stocks, is there a minimum holding period I need to worry about? I know there are short-term vs long-term capital gains rules, but does the same apply to losses? Some of my losing positions I've only held for a few months, while others I've had for over a year. Also, does anyone know if the wash sale rule applies if I sell at a loss in my taxable account but my spouse buys the same stock in their IRA around the same time? We file jointly but have separate investment accounts. Thanks again everyone - this has been incredibly educational!

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Has anyone here successfully claimed a refund for Social Security taxes that were incorrectly withheld during their first two years on a J1? My university withheld FICA taxes from my first paycheck in 2023 all the way through 2024, and I only recently learned I shouldn't have been paying these taxes during that time. I've heard you can file Form 843 "Claim for Refund and Request for Abatement" along with a statement from your employer, but I'm wondering if anyone has actually gone through this process successfully.

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That's really encouraging to hear! Did you have to file a separate Form 843 for each tax year, or could you combine them? I'll need to request refunds for both 2023 and 2024. Also, did you file this along with your regular tax return or as a completely separate submission?

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Raul Neal

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You'll need to file separate Form 843s for each tax year since they have different processing procedures. I filed mine as separate submissions, not with my regular tax return. For 2023, you'd file Form 843 referencing that tax year specifically. For 2024, you'd do the same but reference 2024. Make sure to include all the supporting documentation for each year - your employer's acknowledgment letter, copies of your W-2s showing the FICA withholdings, and documentation of your J1 status for each year. The IRS processes these refund claims separately from regular tax returns, so don't include them with your 1040. Send them directly to the address specified in the Form 843 instructions. Just be patient - it really does take several months, but the refund is worth the wait!

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Paolo Longo

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I went through this exact same situation last year! I'm a J1 research scholar from India, and my university started withholding Social Security taxes in January 2024 after I had been exempt for my first two calendar years (2022-2023). What really helped me understand the timing was learning that the IRS counts any part of a calendar year as a full year for the exemption. So even though you only arrived in September 2023, that counts as your first year, 2024 as your second, and now 2025 is when the exemption ends. One thing to double-check is whether India and the US have a totalization agreement that might affect your situation. India doesn't have one with the US, so I definitely had to start paying once my exemption period ended. But since you mentioned you're from Brazil, and I saw in the comments that Brazil does have a totalization agreement, you might want to look into whether you can get a certificate of coverage from Brazilian social security authorities. Also, make sure your university is correctly calculating this. Some payroll departments make mistakes with international employees. I'd recommend getting a written explanation from them about why they're starting the withholding now, just to have it documented.

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This is really helpful, thank you! I hadn't considered that my university's payroll department might have made an error in their calculations. Getting that written explanation sounds like a smart idea - I want to make sure they're applying the rules correctly before I accept this significant reduction in my take-home pay. The totalization agreement angle is definitely something I need to investigate further. From what others have mentioned, it sounds like Brazil's agreement with the US could potentially help, but I'd need to get documentation from Brazilian social security authorities. Do you happen to know how complex that process typically is, or if there are any common pitfalls to avoid when pursuing that route? Also, did your university provide any advance notice before they started withholding the taxes, or did it just suddenly appear on your paycheck like mine did?

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Kai Rivera

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This thread has been incredibly educational! As someone who's been putting off consolidating my HSAs because I was worried about the process, reading everyone's real experiences has given me the confidence to finally move forward. Just to recap the key points I've gathered for anyone else in a similar situation: 1. **Never use regular bank transfers** - this will be treated as a taxable distribution with penalties 2. **Trustee-to-trustee transfer is the safest option** - no tax reporting required and no limits on frequency 3. **Call both banks directly** for their specific forms - don't rely on online versions 4. **Ask about fees, minimum balances, and timing** when you call 5. **Pause automatic contributions** during the transfer process 6. **Keep the old account open** until you confirm the transfer completed successfully The consensus seems to be that this process takes 7-10 business days and ranges from free to about $25 in fees. Most importantly, when done correctly as a trustee-to-trustee transfer, there's nothing to report on your taxes. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences - both the successes and the cautionary tales. This is exactly the kind of real-world guidance that makes all the difference when navigating these financial processes!

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Sophia Carson

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This is such a perfect summary, Kai! I've been following this whole discussion as someone who's been nervous about consolidating my three different HSAs from various job changes over the years. Your bullet points really crystallize all the key advice. One thing that really stands out to me is how this community came together to help Jade avoid what could have been a very expensive mistake. The difference between a simple bank transfer (which seems logical) and a proper trustee-to-trustee transfer could literally cost thousands in taxes and penalties. I'm definitely bookmarking this thread for when I'm ready to tackle my own HSA consolidation. The real-world timelines and fee information from Emma, Arnav, and others is invaluable - you just can't get that level of detail from generic financial websites. Thanks to everyone who contributed, especially Tony for the initial technical breakdown and Nina for sharing her cautionary experience. This is exactly why I love this community!

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Diego Mendoza

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This thread has been absolutely invaluable! I'm in exactly the same situation as Jade with HSAs at two different banks, and I was literally about to use the online transfer feature before reading all of this. You all just saved me from what could have been a very expensive mistake! I had no idea there was such a critical difference between a regular bank transfer and a trustee-to-trustee transfer. The fact that one method is completely tax-free while the other triggers a 20% penalty plus income tax is mind-blowing. It really shows how important it is to understand the specific rules around tax-advantaged accounts like HSAs. The real-world experiences from Emma, Arnav, and others are so helpful - especially the practical details like fees, timing, and things to watch out for like minimum balances and pausing automatic contributions. These are the kinds of details you just don't get from official bank websites or generic financial advice articles. I'm going to follow the roadmap outlined here: call both banks tomorrow to get the trustee-to-trustee transfer forms, ask specifically about their requirements and timelines, and make sure to pause my payroll deductions until everything is completed. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this discussion - this community is amazing for sharing real experiences and looking out for each other!

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I'm so glad this thread helped you avoid that mistake, Diego! It's honestly scary how easy it would be to accidentally trigger those penalties just by using what seems like the most obvious method. As someone who's been lurking on this community for a while but rarely posts, I felt compelled to jump in because HSA transfers are one of those things where a small procedural mistake can have huge financial consequences. The difference between doing it right (trustee-to-trustee) and doing it wrong (regular transfer) could literally cost someone their entire HSA balance in penalties and taxes. What really impressed me about this discussion is how everyone shared not just what to do, but also the specific practical details - the fees, the timelines, the gotchas like minimum balances and pending contributions. That's the kind of information that makes the difference between theory and actually successfully completing the process. Good luck with your transfer! Following the roadmap everyone laid out here should make it go smoothly. And thanks for adding your voice to encourage others who might be in the same situation - the more people who know about the proper process, the fewer will accidentally fall into the penalty trap.

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