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Keisha Travis

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" Update Spoke to someone with the and was told that'it s still being reviewed. She did ask if I received any letters other than the one for me to verify my identity, which I told her I'haven t receive anything, she then placed me on hold for 5 to 7 minutes and returned to tell me that she was advised to tell me starting from todays date May 1st I have to give them 100 to 180 days which will be Oct 28th to either get my or letter asking for information etc. I know you'can t win with the but'what s not fair is I did what I was suppose to do previous and waited only to possibly have to wait another 100 to 180 days. Hopefully, that'won t be the case and'they ll either send the or ask for verified information.'I m just ready to get the ballrolling...

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So I filed my taxes in 4/5 and a week later 4/12 (before I received my original ) I amended my taxes adding my baby whose ss card I didn’t have! I wasn’t told by my tax preparer that the recommends you file an amendment AFTER original is deposited! I haven’t received any letters or notifications and this is what my says! Folks on Reddit have been waiting 4 months and telling me based off my and the information I gave I’ll be waiting until October! Should I call the IRS? I’ve already contact my local and because it’s the off season (I’m a waitress) and this money always helps me along during the summer! Plus I only worked until July last year due to pregnancy complications!

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NebulaNova

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@Jaleesa Ferreira I m'so sorry you re'dealing with this stress during your off-season! As someone who s'been through the maze myself, I totally understand the anxiety. Your situation is actually pretty common - filing an amendment so close to your original return definitely puts you in a longer processing queue. The silver lining is that your shows all the right codes 971/977 (indicating) your amendment is in the system and being processed. While those Reddit timelines might be accurate for some cases, don t'lose hope - I ve'seen people get their refunds earlier than expected, especially when they have congressional assistance like you do. That was a smart move! Keep documenting everything and definitely use that call service Tom mentioned. Sometimes a human touch and explaining your hardship situation can make a difference. Fingers crossed you see movement sooner than October! 🀞

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Malik Thomas

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@Jaleesa Ferreira I completely understand your frustration - being in the off-season and needing that makes this so much more stressful! The timing of filing your amendment just a week after your original return definitely created complications. Looking at your transcript, the 971 and 977 codes show your amendment is properly in the system, which is good. While the Reddit folks might be right about longer timelines, don t'give up hope - having congressional assistance can sometimes help move things along faster than the standard processing times. I d'definitely recommend calling the using that service Tom mentioned, and when you do, be sure to emphasize your financial hardship situation as a waitress in the off-season. Sometimes explaining the real-world impact can help prioritize your case. Also, keep checking your weekly for any new activity codes. Hang in there - I know the waiting is awful but you ve'done everything right! πŸ’ͺ

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Nia Jackson

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This is such a helpful thread! I'm dealing with a similar situation with my 18-year-old who graduated high school last year but decided to take a gap year before college. He's working part-time and living at home. From what I'm understanding here, since he's over 17 and not a student, he can't be a qualifying child. But if his income is under $4,700 and I provide more than half his support, he could qualify as a qualifying relative for the $500 Credit for Other Dependents, right? The tricky part is calculating whether I'm providing "more than half" his support. He pays for his own gas and some personal expenses, but I cover housing, food, health insurance, and his phone. Does anyone know if there's a specific worksheet or method the IRS recommends for calculating this support test?

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Paige Cantoni

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Yes, you're absolutely right about your 18-year-old potentially qualifying as a qualifying relative! The IRS does have Publication 501 which includes worksheets for calculating the support test. For the support calculation, you'll want to add up the total cost of his support for the year including: fair rental value of lodging you provide, food, clothing, medical/dental care, education, transportation, recreation, and other necessities. Then compare what you paid vs. what he paid for himself. Since you're covering housing (which is usually the biggest expense), food, health insurance, and phone, you're likely providing well over half his support even if he pays for gas and personal items. The key is to use actual dollar amounts - so if his total support costs were $15,000 and you provided $8,000+ of that, you'd meet the test. Just make sure his gross income stays under $4,700 for the year and you should be good for the $500 credit!

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Vanessa Chang

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This thread has been incredibly helpful! I've been struggling with dependent rules for my 20-year-old stepson who moved in with us mid-year after his mom lost her job. He's not in school and works at a restaurant making about $3,800 for the year. From reading all these comments, it sounds like he could qualify as a qualifying relative since his income is under the $4,700 threshold. But I'm worried about the support test since he only lived with us for 7 months of the year. Does the "more than half support" calculation only count the months he lived with us, or does it include the whole year even when he was living elsewhere? Also, does anyone know if there are special rules when the dependent moved between households during the tax year? His mom might try to claim him too since he lived with her for the first 5 months.

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Dananyl Lear

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Great question about mid-year moves! For the support test, you calculate support for the entire year, not just the months he lived with you. So if his total support for the whole year was $12,000 (including what his mom provided in the first 5 months), you'd need to have provided more than $6,000 of that total. However, there's a potential issue with the residency test - qualifying relatives generally need to live with you for the entire year (with some exceptions). Since your stepson only lived with you for 7 months, he might not meet this test unless there's an exception that applies. For the situation with his mom potentially claiming him too, only one person can claim a dependent. If both of you are eligible, you'd need to determine who provided more support or follow tiebreaker rules. Given the complexity of your situation with the mid-year move and potential dual claims, you might want to consult a tax professional or use one of those services others mentioned to get definitive guidance on your specific circumstances.

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Drew Hathaway

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I've had both Chase and Truist over the past few tax seasons, and there's a clear difference. With Chase, I consistently got my refund 1-2 days before the official date. Since switching to Truist last year, I've noticed they strictly adhere to the exact date on the IRS transcript. Last month, my transcript showed a March 13th deposit date, and that's precisely when it appeared in my account - not a day sooner. If you're desperate for earlier access, you might consider opening an account with one of the fintech banks that advertise early direct deposits as a feature. Many of them offer 2-day early access to direct deposits, including tax refunds.

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As someone who's been through this exact situation with Truist, I can confirm what others have said - they stick to the official IRS date. However, here's a tip that might help with your cash flow planning: you can actually get a pretty accurate estimate of when your refund will be processed by checking the IRS processing times on their website. They update these weekly during tax season. For e-filed returns with direct deposit (which yours is), it's typically 21 days from acceptance, but can be faster if there are no issues. Since you just got accepted yesterday, you're probably looking at mid to late March for the actual deposit. Also, make sure your bank account info is exactly correct on your return - even a small error can cause delays that push you to a paper check instead.

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Gael Robinson

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This is really helpful info! I'm new to filing taxes as a freelancer and the whole process is pretty overwhelming. Quick question - when you mention checking the IRS processing times on their website, is that different from the "Where's My Refund" tool? I've been obsessively checking WMR but it just says "approved" without giving me much detail. Also, since you mentioned making sure bank info is correct - I double-checked my routing and account numbers like 5 times before submitting, but is there anything else that commonly causes deposit issues? Really don't want to end up with a paper check since I need this money ASAP for quarterly estimated payments due next month.

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Dylan Cooper

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The distinction between gross and net winnings on sportsbook statements is crucial - you'll want to look at the column headers carefully. Net winnings statements will typically show something like "Net Winnings" or "Profit/Loss" while gross statements might say "Total Payouts" or "Amount Won." If you see a column that shows the full amount returned to you (including your original stake), that's gross. What you want for tax purposes is the profit-only amount. Most major books like DraftKings and FanDuel default to net winnings in their annual summaries, but smaller or offshore books might vary. Using multiple sportsbooks isn't suspicious at all - it's actually very common for bettors to shop for better odds and bonuses. The IRS expects people to use multiple platforms. Just make sure you're reporting the combined totals from all platforms accurately. If anything, having records from multiple regulated US sportsbooks makes your reporting more credible since these companies also report to the IRS. Pro tip: Download your annual statements from all your books in January while they're still available. Some books only keep them accessible for 90 days after year-end, and you don't want to be scrambling in March trying to reconstruct your records.

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This is incredibly helpful advice! I wish I had known about downloading annual statements earlier. I just checked my FanDuel account and found the annual summary section - it shows "Net Winnings/Losses" which sounds like exactly what I need for tax reporting. One quick follow-up question about the 90-day availability window you mentioned - is this pretty standard across all sportsbooks, or do some keep records available longer? I'm asking because I also have accounts with BetMGM and Caesars that I haven't checked yet, and I want to make sure I don't miss the download window. Also, when you say "regulated US sportsbooks" report to the IRS - does that mean they're automatically sending my betting information to the government, or only if I hit certain thresholds? I haven't received any tax forms from my books this year, but I want to understand what information they might have already shared.

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StarSeeker

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The 90-day window varies by sportsbook - BetMGM typically keeps annual statements available for about 6 months, while Caesars is usually around 120 days. But don't risk it - download them all now while you're thinking about it. Regarding IRS reporting, regulated US sportsbooks are required to issue Form W-2G for certain winning thresholds (generally $600 or more AND at least 300 times your wager). They also report these to the IRS automatically. However, even if you don't receive a W-2G, the sportsbooks may still be tracking and could potentially report your activity if requested by the IRS. The key thing to understand is that just because you didn't get tax forms doesn't mean you don't owe taxes on your winnings. The IRS expects you to self-report all gambling income regardless of whether you received forms. This is why keeping good records and downloading those annual summaries is so important - it protects you if there are ever questions about your reporting accuracy. Most casual bettors who stay under the W-2G thresholds fly under the radar, but it's always better to report correctly from the start than to deal with problems later.

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Sergio Neal

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This is a really comprehensive discussion! I'm glad Adrian asked this question because I was struggling with the same confusion. After reading through all these responses, it's clear that the key point is: **you only pay taxes on the NET profit from each winning bet, not the gross amount returned to you**. What I found most helpful was learning about the annual summary statements from sportsbooks - I had no idea these existed! I just downloaded mine from DraftKings and it clearly shows "Net Winnings" which makes tax reporting so much simpler than trying to calculate everything manually. For anyone else reading this who's new to sports betting taxes, here are the main takeaways I gathered: 1. Stakes ARE deducted from taxable winnings automatically for each winning bet 2. You must report ALL gambling winnings as income (even without W-2G forms) 3. You can only deduct losses if you itemize deductions on Schedule A 4. Download annual summaries from all your sportsbooks in January before they expire 5. Keep detailed records throughout the year rather than reconstructing at tax time Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences - this thread probably saved a lot of people from making costly mistakes on their tax returns!

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Eloise Kendrick

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This summary is really helpful! As someone who just discovered this community while trying to figure out my own sports betting taxes, I appreciate how clearly you've laid out the key points. I was definitely one of those people who thought I had to pay taxes on the full amount returned from winning bets, which would have been a disaster for my tax bill. The distinction between gross payouts and net winnings is something I never would have figured out on my own. One thing I'm curious about - for those of us who are completely new to this, is there a recommended order for handling all these steps? Like, should I download the annual summaries first, then try to reconcile them with any W-2G forms I might have received, and then figure out whether to itemize deductions? I want to make sure I'm approaching this systematically rather than just randomly trying different things. Also, has anyone here ever had to deal with the IRS questioning their gambling tax reporting? I'm wondering what kind of documentation they typically ask for during an audit and whether keeping those annual summaries plus detailed records is usually sufficient.

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I just went through this same exact situation a few weeks ago and can definitely relate to that initial panic! The "Credit Transferred out to 1040 202312" notation appears when the IRS moves an overpayment from one tax account to your 2023 individual return. In my case, it was from a previous year's amended return that resulted in a credit I had forgotten about. The system automatically applied it to my 2023 taxes, which actually increased my refund by $340. What really helped me was logging into my IRS online account and checking my "Account Transcript" for both 2022 and 2023 - you should see a matching "Credit Transferred In" entry somewhere that shows the other side of this transaction. The good news is this is completely normal and usually works in your favor since it's your own money being moved around efficiently!

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Hannah Flores

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This is so helpful to read everyone's experiences! I'm dealing with the exact same thing right now and was completely confused by all these cryptic codes. It's reassuring to know that this is actually a normal process and typically works in our favor. I'm definitely going to log into my IRS account and check both my 2022 and 2023 transcripts like you suggested to see where this credit came from. Thanks for sharing your experience - it really helps to know that a $340 increase is possible from these transfers!

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Emma Bianchi

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I can totally understand the initial confusion - those transcript codes are really cryptic! From what I'm reading here, it sounds like the "Credit Transferred out to 1040 202312" is actually good news for you. The IRS found money you overpaid somewhere (maybe estimated payments, withholdings, or a credit from a previous year) and automatically moved it to benefit your 2023 tax return. The "202312" format means December 2023, so it's being applied to your 2023 individual return. I'd definitely recommend downloading both your 2022 and 2023 account transcripts from the IRS website to see the full picture - you should find a corresponding entry showing where this credit originated from. In most cases, this either increases your refund or reduces what you owe, so it typically works in your favor!

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