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Can I report net winnings for online sports betting? (Fanduel, Fanatics, DraftKings tax reporting confusion)

I've been using a few different sportsbooks this year (mainly Fanduel, Draftkings, and Fanatics) and I'm really confused about how to properly report this on my taxes. From what I understand, I can't just report my net winnings (winnings minus losses) as income. Instead, I have to report all my winnings as income and then separately deduct my losses if they exceed the standard deduction. My confusion is about what actually counts as "winnings" on these platforms. For example, Fanduel's player activity statement shows "Amount Played" (all bets placed regardless of outcome) and "Amount Won" (total money returned including my original stake). Let's say I place a $25 bet at +150 odds and win. They return $62.50 to me ($37.50 profit plus my original $25 stake). In my mind, my winnings should be $37.50, not $62.50. But Fanduel's statement shows: Amount Won: $62.50; Amount Played: $25 If I use their numbers for tax reporting, I'd be claiming an extra $25 as income (multiplied across hundreds of bets, this adds up fast!). The problem is these platforms don't keep full bet history long enough to manually recalculate everything. The closest IRS guidance I could find seems to be about slot machines, which states: "Gross income from a wagering transaction is calculated by subtracting wagers placed to produce the payouts from the payouts as a preliminary step in determining gross income." And "a wagering 'gain' means the amount won in excess of the amount bet (basis)." Has anyone figured out the right way to handle this for online sports betting? Are the sportsbooks' activity statements correct, or should I be doing a different calculation?

Paolo Rizzo

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Yes, unfortunately that's exactly right - this is one of the most frustrating aspects of gambling taxation. Even if you're a net loser for the year, you still have to report all your winnings as income on your tax return. In your example, you'd report the $2,000 in winnings as "Other Income" on Schedule 1. Your $3,000 in losses can only be deducted if you itemize deductions on Schedule A, and even then only up to the amount of your winnings (so $2,000 max). If your total itemized deductions don't exceed the standard deduction ($13,850 for single filers in 2023), you're better off taking the standard deduction and can't claim the gambling losses at all. This means you could end up paying taxes on $2,000 of "income" even though you actually lost $1,000 overall. It's a terrible system for recreational gamblers, but that's how the tax code is written. This is why it's so important to keep detailed records and understand the tax implications before you start gambling regularly.

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This is exactly why I've been avoiding sports betting even though my friends keep trying to get me into it. The tax implications seem way too complicated for what's supposed to be entertainment. Are there any legitimate ways to structure gambling to avoid this weird situation where you pay taxes on money you didn't actually make? Like what if you set up an LLC or something - would that change how winnings and losses are treated?

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Setting up an LLC for gambling activities generally won't help you avoid these tax issues and could actually make things more complicated. The IRS treats gambling as a personal activity, not a business, for most recreational bettors. Even with an LLC, your gambling winnings would likely still be treated as personal income subject to the same rules. To qualify as a gambling "business" that could use normal business accounting (where net losses could offset other income), you'd need to meet very strict criteria: gambling must be your primary occupation, you'd need to show profit motive, maintain detailed business records, and demonstrate expertise in the field. The IRS is extremely skeptical of these claims and most recreational bettors wouldn't qualify. The reality is that the tax code is deliberately unfavorable to gambling because Congress wants to discourage it. Your best bet as a recreational gambler is to either: 1. Keep your gambling small enough that you can absorb the tax hit on gross winnings 2. Make sure you have enough other itemizable deductions to exceed the standard deduction 3. Track everything meticulously so you can at least minimize the tax impact through proper reporting The tax complexity is definitely a legitimate reason to think twice about getting heavily involved in sports betting.

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Jayden Hill

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This is really helpful information - I had no idea the IRS was so strict about the business vs. personal gambling distinction. It sounds like for most people who just bet recreationally, we're stuck with the unfavorable tax treatment. One follow-up question: you mentioned keeping gambling "small enough that you can absorb the tax hit." Is there a rough rule of thumb for what that means? Like should recreational bettors try to keep their total winnings under a certain dollar amount per year to avoid getting into trouble tax-wise? I'm trying to figure out if there's a sweet spot where you can still have fun with sports betting without creating a major tax headache.

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Eli Wang

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Has anyone used TaxAct for reporting straddles? I've been using it for years but this is my first time with Form 6781 and I'm finding the interface really confusing for entering straddle information.

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I switched from TaxAct to TurboTax Premier specifically because of options trading. TurboTax has a much better interface for Form 6781 and actually walks you through the straddle identification process. Worth the extra cost if you have complex options strategies.

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Savannah Vin

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I've been through the Form 6781 maze myself and wanted to add a few practical tips that might help you with your SPX/SPY options situation. First, make sure you're keeping detailed records of when you opened and closed each leg of your straddles. The IRS requires you to identify which positions form each straddle, and you'll need the exact dates and amounts for Form 6781. I use a simple spreadsheet to track this. For your SPX options specifically, remember that they're marked-to-market at year-end even if you haven't closed them, so you'll need to report any unrealized gains/losses on positions you're still holding. This is different from your SPY options which are only reported when you actually close them. One thing that caught me off guard my first year: if you have any straddle positions still open at year-end, you need to calculate the "unrecognized gain" for Part III of Form 6781. This is basically the paper profit on the winning leg of any straddle where you took a loss on the other leg. Also, since you mentioned using TurboTax, make sure you're using the Premier version - the basic version doesn't handle Form 6781 properly. Even then, you might need to manually override some of the calculations if you have complex mixed straddle situations.

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This is really helpful, especially the point about tracking open and close dates! I'm curious about the mark-to-market requirement for SPX options - does this mean I need to calculate the fair market value of any SPX positions I'm holding on December 31st? And if so, how do I determine that value? Do I use the closing price from the last trading day of the year, or is there a specific method the IRS requires for valuing these positions?

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NeonNova

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This thread has been incredibly thorough and helpful! As a newcomer to this community, I really appreciate how everyone has shared their real experiences with similar situations. One additional consideration I'd like to add - make sure to clarify in your contract whether you're responsible for any liability insurance or bonding requirements. Some property management arrangements require the on-site manager to carry additional insurance coverage, which could eat into your savings from the rent reduction. Also, if you're planning to claim any home office deductions (as mentioned by some others), be extra careful about the "exclusive use" requirement. The IRS is pretty strict about this - the space has to be used ONLY for business purposes. Since you're living in the same building you're managing, it might be harder to demonstrate that a portion of your apartment is used exclusively for management duties. The advice about keeping detailed logs really can't be overstated. I'd suggest using a simple app or spreadsheet to track your time and activities in real-time rather than trying to reconstruct it later. This documentation will be invaluable not just for taxes, but also for renegotiating your agreement if the workload turns out to be significantly different than expected. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences - this has been a masterclass in handling apartment management compensation!

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Welcome to the community! This is such a comprehensive thread - I'm learning a lot as someone who's completely new to property management arrangements. Your point about liability insurance is something I never would have thought about but makes total sense. I'm curious - for those who have been through this, did you find that property owners were generally receptive to discussing all these details upfront, or did some get annoyed by all the questions? I'm worried about seeming too demanding during negotiations, but after reading all these responses, it's clear there are a lot of important details that need to be worked out before signing anything. The exclusive use requirement for home office deductions definitely seems tricky in this situation. I'm wondering if anyone has successfully claimed this when living in the same building they manage, or if it's generally not worth the risk of IRS scrutiny? Thanks for the app/spreadsheet suggestion for time tracking - that's going on my to-do list if I move forward with a similar arrangement!

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Romeo Barrett

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Welcome to both of you! This really has become an incredibly valuable thread. To answer your question about property owner receptiveness - in my experience, professional property management companies are usually very open to discussing these details since they've dealt with similar arrangements before. Smaller individual landlords might need more education, but most appreciate that you're thinking things through properly rather than just jumping in blindly. I'd frame it as "I want to make sure we both understand our obligations so this arrangement works well for everyone" rather than coming across as overly demanding. Any landlord who gets annoyed by reasonable questions about tax implications and liability probably isn't someone you want to work with anyway. Regarding the home office deduction - I decided it wasn't worth the risk in my situation since I couldn't demonstrate truly exclusive use. The IRS audits home office deductions pretty aggressively, and when you're living in the same building you manage, it's hard to prove a space is used ONLY for business. I focused on other legitimate deductions like vehicle expenses for off-site errands and portion of cell phone costs. One more tip for the original poster - consider asking for a trial period in your contract, maybe 90 days, where either party can terminate with reasonable notice. This protects both you and the property owner if the arrangement doesn't work out as expected. Better to discover incompatibility early than be locked into a year-long agreement that becomes problematic!

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This is such valuable advice, thank you! As someone completely new to this type of arrangement, I really appreciate the perspective on how to approach these conversations with property owners. Framing it as wanting to ensure mutual understanding rather than being demanding makes total sense. The trial period suggestion is brilliant - I hadn't thought about that but it seems like it would give both parties peace of mind. Especially since it sounds like the workload can sometimes be quite different from what's initially described in the contract. I'm also glad to hear your take on the home office deduction. Given all the other legitimate deductions available (vehicle expenses, phone costs, etc.), it seems smarter to focus on those clear-cut options rather than risk IRS scrutiny over something that might be hard to prove. One quick follow-up question - when you mention vehicle expenses for off-site errands, did you find that property owners were generally willing to reimburse those costs, or did you just plan to deduct them on your taxes? I'm wondering if that's something worth negotiating as part of the compensation package or if it's typically an out-of-pocket expense that you handle through deductions. Thanks again for all the practical insights - this thread has been incredibly educational!

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Aaliyah Reed

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Is anyone else concerned about how the IRS seems to have completely different systems that don't talk to each other? I'm skeptical that a return can be "accepted" but then show no record of filing for 45+ days. Shouldn't acceptance mean it's in their system? This feels like a fundamental technology failure that they're just expecting taxpayers to deal with. Every other financial institution I deal with can show real-time transaction status.

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Ella Russell

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Omg this is SO common with biz returns! The IRS has like 3 diff systems that don't sync up. My CPA explained that the acceptance is just from the initial receiving system (kinda like getting a ticket number at the DMV) but then it has to go thru actual processing before hitting the transcript db. Last yr my S-corp return took 53 days to show up in transcripts after being "accepted" and another 2 wks for the refund. The WMR tool is basically useless for anything but the simplest returns. The whole thing is ridic outdated but Congress keeps cutting their tech budget so šŸ¤·ā€ā™‚ļø

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This is EXACTLY what my accountant told me too! He said the IRS has multiple legacy systems from different decades that don't communicate well with each other. The initial acceptance is just their EDI gateway, but then it has to go through their main processing pipeline before hitting the transcript database. It's shocking how outdated their infrastructure is!

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Daniel Rogers

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I think I've read somewhere that the IRS is still running some systems on COBOL programming from the 1960s? That might explain why everything seems so disconnected and slow.

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Amara Okafor

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If you're concerned about your refund being offset, you should consider adjusting your withholding immediately rather than waiting for a refund that might not come. By filing a new W-4 with your employer, you can reduce your withholding and increase your take-home pay now. This approach has several advantages in your situation: 1. You receive the money incrementally throughout the year rather than waiting for a lump sum 2. Funds that never become a "refund" cannot be offset through TOP 3. You can use the additional income to address your tax debt directly The IRS Withholding Estimator tool can help you calculate the appropriate adjustments to your W-4. This strategy is particularly effective for taxpayers with known liabilities who need to maximize their cash flow.

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I went through something very similar and wanted to share what I learned. The IRS offset system can be unpredictable, but there are some warning signs to watch for. First, check if you've received any recent notices - specifically Form CP504 or Letter LT11. These are sent before they can legally offset your refund. If you haven't gotten these, you might have some protection. Second, log into your IRS online account and look at your account transcript. Look for any codes that might indicate special status - things like "currently not collectible" or active payment agreements can sometimes prevent offset. The reality is that what happened last year was probably due to timing delays in their system. Your debt has likely been "certified" to the Treasury Offset Program by now, which means they're authorized to take your refund. My advice? Don't count on getting the full refund. Maybe plan for receiving half or none of it, and if you get more than expected, consider it a bonus. The stress of depending on money that might not come isn't worth it, especially when you're settling into a new country and need financial stability. Have you considered calling the IRS to set up a payment plan? Sometimes having an active agreement can provide some protection, though it's not guaranteed.

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This is really helpful advice, thank you! I'm new to dealing with IRS issues and had no idea there were specific forms to look out for. I just checked my mailbox and realized I might have thrown away some IRS mail thinking it was junk - that's probably not smart! Your point about planning for the worst case scenario makes a lot of sense. I've been in similar situations with other financial stuff and the uncertainty is always the hardest part. It sounds like setting up a payment plan might be worth exploring even if it doesn't guarantee protection - at least it shows good faith effort to resolve the debt. Do you know if there's a minimum amount they'll accept for monthly payments, or is it based on your financial situation? I'm trying to figure out if this is something I could actually afford while getting settled.

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