


Ask the community...
dont forget about retirement contritbutions too!! when i was doing pslf i figured out i could lower my AGI by putting more in my 401k which lowered my student loan payments. its like getting a discount on retirement saving!!! for us we did married/seperate and the lower income spouse claimed our kid. saved us like $4k a year in studen loan payments and only lost like $1500 in tax benefits
Yes, HSA contributions absolutely work the same way! HSA contributions reduce your AGI just like 401k contributions do, which means they'll lower your income-driven repayment calculations for PSLF. If you're eligible for an HSA (high-deductible health plan), you can contribute up to $4,300 for individual coverage or $8,550 for family coverage in 2024. It's actually a triple tax advantage - deductible going in, tax-free growth, and tax-free withdrawals for qualified medical expenses. With a new baby, you're probably going to have medical expenses anyway, so maximizing HSA contributions could be a really smart move for your situation. You'd lower your student loan payments AND build up a tax-advantaged fund for healthcare costs. The combination of maxing 401k, HSA, and filing separately with the right spouse claiming your child could really optimize your finances during these final PSLF years!
This is such great advice! I had no idea that HSA contributions could help with student loan payments through lowering AGI. With our combined income around $220k and a new baby, we'll definitely have medical expenses. Just to make sure I understand correctly - if I'm the one pursuing PSLF, I should be maximizing MY 401k and HSA contributions specifically to lower MY AGI for the loan calculation, right? And then we'd still file separately with one of us claiming our son as a dependent? Also, do you know if there are any other pre-tax contributions that work the same way? I think my employer offers dependent care FSA too but I'm not sure if that reduces AGI.
I messed up my rental condo depreciation last year using the town's weird assessment numbers. My accountant caught it before filing and said the 0.4% land allocation I calculated would absolutely trigger an audit. She helped me get the correct numbers from our condo docs (it was actually 16%). One thing nobody mentioned - with condos you're depreciating the interior structure plus your percentage interest in common elements, but NOT the land. That's why the allocation is so important. My accountant said this is one of the most common errors for first-time landlords with condos.
Thanks for mentioning this! Would you mind sharing what your accountant charged to help with rental property tax prep? I'm trying to decide if I should hire someone or just use tax software.
This is exactly the kind of situation where getting professional help upfront saves you headaches later. I made similar mistakes with my first rental property and learned the hard way that municipal assessments are often completely unreliable for depreciation purposes. Your 0.35% land allocation is definitely a red flag. Even for condos, anything under 10% typically raises eyebrows. The IRS expects reasonable allocations, and yours is so far outside normal ranges that it could trigger automatic review. Here's what I'd recommend based on my experience: 1) Check your original purchase documents - sometimes the land/building split is mentioned in the settlement statement or appraisal 2) Contact your condo association for official documentation of the land allocation percentage 3) If neither yields results, use a conservative 15-20% allocation and document your reasoning Remember, you're not just depreciating your unit - you're also depreciating your proportional share of common areas (hallways, lobby, etc.) but excluding the land value. Using $720k as your basis is correct regardless of current value. Better to be slightly conservative with your depreciation than to deal with an audit over unrealistic numbers!
This is really helpful advice! I'm dealing with a similar situation on my first rental property and didn't realize how important getting the right documentation would be. Quick question - when you mention checking the original purchase documents, should I be looking at the HUD-1 settlement statement specifically, or are there other documents from closing that might have this information? My closing was a bit of a blur and I'm not sure what paperwork might be relevant for the land allocation.
mine cleared after 3 weeks, just keep checking WMR and your transcripts. dont call them unless its been over 21 days they wont tell u anything anyway
Hey! I was in the exact same situation last month - had those same codes on my transcript and was freaking out about when I'd get my refund. The 570 hold cleared after about 3 weeks for me, and I ended up getting a CP05 notice in the mail asking me to verify my identity online. Once I did that, my refund was released within a week. The waiting is honestly the worst part, but try not to stress too much - these codes are super common this filing season and most people get their refunds eventually. Just keep checking your transcript every Friday when they update! ๐ค
Thanks for sharing your experience! Really helps to hear from someone who went through the same thing. Did you have to do anything special for the identity verification or was it pretty straightforward? I'm hoping mine resolves just as quickly ๐ค
Another thing to consider - the timing of when you sell might matter for tax purposes. If you've held the Bitcoin for over a year, you'll qualify for long-term capital gains rates, which are typically lower than short-term rates. For 2025, long-term capital gains are taxed at 0%, 15%, or 20% depending on your income bracket, while short-term gains are taxed as ordinary income (potentially much higher). So if some of your brother's Bitcoin investments were made less than a year ago, it might be worth waiting until they cross that one-year threshold before selling.
Also worth noting that the cost basis method you choose can make a huge difference in crypto taxes. FIFO (first in, first out) vs. specific identification can result in totally different tax outcomes.
I'm dealing with a similar situation with my sister's crypto investments, and from what I've learned, you're actually in a pretty good position with that documentation you mentioned having since 2019. One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet - make sure you're calculating the cost basis correctly for each of your brother's purchases. Since he's been making weekly $65 investments, you'll need to track the purchase price of Bitcoin at each transaction date to determine his individual cost basis for each "lot" of Bitcoin purchased. This becomes important because when he sells, you'll need to determine which specific Bitcoin purchases are being sold (FIFO, LIFO, or specific identification method) to calculate the actual capital gains or losses accurately. Also, since you mentioned you're not currently working, be aware that even though the Bitcoin sale will appear on your tax return, the actual tax liability should really be your brother's responsibility. You might want to have a clear agreement with him about covering not just the taxes owed, but also any additional tax preparation costs since this complicates your return significantly. The joint vs. separate filing question is tricky, but as others mentioned, joint filing is almost always more beneficial. The key is making sure your brother understands he needs to reimburse you for the full tax impact on your household.
This is really helpful advice about tracking the cost basis for each weekly purchase! I hadn't thought about how complicated it would be to calculate gains/losses for each individual $65 Bitcoin purchase over the years. Do you know if there are any tools or software that can help with this kind of detailed cost basis tracking? With weekly purchases since 2019, that's going to be a lot of individual transactions to sort through manually. I'm worried I might make mistakes calculating everything by hand. Also, you mentioned having a clear agreement with my brother about covering tax costs - should this be something in writing? I want to make sure we're both protected if the IRS has questions later.
Omar Farouk
I just went through this exact situation! My advice: have your kids file their own taxes BUT check the box that says "Someone can claim you as a dependent." They'll still get refunds of any withholding that exceeds their tax liability, and you can still claim them if they meet all the tests. My 19yr old made $7200 last year but still qualified as my dependent because: 1) lived with me all year 2) I paid over half support (rent, food, etc was way more than his earnings) 3) he's my kid He filed his own return, got back his withholding, and I still got the dependent tax benefit. Win-win!
0 coins
Chloe Martin
โขThis doesn't sound right. If they make over the threshold amount, how can they qualify? My H&R Block guy told me the income limit is strict for dependents.
0 coins
GamerGirl99
โขThank you all so much for the incredibly helpful advice! I think I understand now - my 18-year-old can likely be claimed as a qualifying child regardless of income as long as I provided more than half their support, but my 20-year-old might be trickier since they're over 19 and not a student. I'm definitely going to check out that taxr.ai tool to confirm everything and make sure I'm on the right track. And if I still have questions after that, the Claimyr service sounds like it could save me a lot of frustration trying to reach the IRS directly!
0 coins
Hannah White
Just to clarify what others have said - there's an important distinction between "qualifying child" and "qualifying relative" that determines income limits: **Qualifying Child** (no income limit): - Under 19, OR under 24 if full-time student - Lived with you more than half the year - You provided more than half their support - Didn't file joint return with spouse **Qualifying Relative** (income limit applies): - Can't earn more than $5,050 (2024 tax year) - You provided more than half their support - Not a qualifying child of you or anyone else So your 18-year-old could potentially qualify as a "qualifying child" regardless of income, but your 20-year-old (not in school) would need to pass the "qualifying relative" test, which includes the income limit. The key is the support test - you need to calculate if you truly provided more than 50% of their total support costs (housing, food, clothing, medical, transportation, etc.) versus what they paid for themselves with their earnings.
0 coins
Rosie Harper
โขThis is exactly the breakdown I needed! So if I'm understanding correctly, even though both my kids made over $5,050, my 18-year-old might still qualify under the "qualifying child" rules since there's no income limit for that category. But for my 20-year-old, since they're over 19 and not in school, they'd have to meet the stricter "qualifying relative" test which includes that income limit. The support test seems like the trickiest part to figure out. When you say "total support costs" - does that include things like car insurance if they're on my policy, or their cell phone bill if they're on my family plan? I'm trying to get a realistic picture of whether I actually provided more than half their support when you factor in all these shared expenses.
0 coins