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Can't Find 14-Digit Control Number on IRS Identity Verification Notice to Access sa.www4.irs.gov Portal

I need help getting into the IRS Identity Verification portal (sa.www4.irs.gov). I got their verification notice in the mail, and I'm on the "Verify Your Return" page where it says "Did you receive an IRS return verification notice in the mail?" But I'm completely stuck because they keep asking for a "14-digit control number provided on your notice" and I've looked at every single page of my notice multiple times but can't find anything that looks like a control number. The site says I don't need to use spaces when entering it, but that doesn't help since I can't even find the number to begin with. I'm currently looking at the exact IRS Identity Verification screen at sa.www4.irs.gov which displays "An official website of the United States Government" with the "Here's how you know" text next to it. I'm on the "Verify Your Return" page under the "Verify Your Notice" section. The screen specifically asks "Did you receive an IRS return verification notice in the mail?" and there's additional text that says "(You will need this notice to continue with this online service. If you received a notice, but don't have it with you, please come back later.)" I selected "Yes" and now it's asking me to "Enter the 14-digit control number provided on your notice, you don't need to use spaces." That's exactly where I'm stuck because I've scoured every inch of my notice and can't find anything resembling a 14-digit number. I see there's an option that says "No, please resend the notice" but it warns that "(If you have filed your return within the last 7 days, please allow an additional 14 days to receive the notice in the mail before requesting another one to be sent. You can then come back and continue verifying.)" I'd rather not wait another 2 weeks for a new notice if I can avoid it. There's a blue "CONTINUE" button at the bottom of the screen, but I can't proceed without this control number. Has anyone else dealt with this? Where exactly on the notice is this control number supposed to be? I feel like I'm going crazy looking at every single line of this notice.

Max Knight

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@Zoe Dimitriou - glad you figured out the letter mix-up! Just wanted to add that the 4883C process is actually pretty straightforward once you know what to do. You'll typically need to call the number on your letter with your Social Security card, driver's license, and a copy of your tax return. They'll walk you through the verification steps over the phone. It's actually faster than the online portal in most cases since you don't have to wait for additional notices. The phone reps are usually pretty helpful with 4883C cases too.

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Layla Sanders

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@Max Knight thanks for the extra info! Just called the number on my 4883C and you re'right - way easier than I expected. The rep was super helpful and walked me through everything step by step. Had all my docs ready and the whole thing took maybe 20 minutes. Definitely beats waiting weeks for new notices!

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Freya Collins

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Just wanted to chime in as someone who went through this exact same confusion last year! The letter mix-up between 5071C and 4883C is super common - I did the same thing and spent forever looking for a control number that didn't exist. One thing to add to what others have mentioned: when you call the number on your 4883C letter, make sure you have your prior year tax return handy too (not just the current year). They sometimes ask questions about previous filings to verify your identity. Also, if you're calling during peak season (Jan-April), expect longer wait times but don't give up - the phone verification really is much faster than going through the mail process. The good news is once you complete the 4883C verification, your account gets flagged as resolved and you're less likely to get these notices in the future. Hope this helps!

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@Freya Collins This is such helpful advice! I m'dealing with a similar situation right now and had no idea about needing the prior year return. Question - when you called, did they resolve everything in that one phone call or did you have to do any follow-up steps? I m'hoping to get this sorted quickly since I m'still waiting on my refund.

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Jamal Wilson

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This thread has been really helpful! I'm dealing with something similar - my small business received a 1099-NEC for selling some old office furniture to another company. It was just a one-time clearance of equipment we no longer needed, not part of our regular business operations. From what I'm reading here, it sounds like the purchasing company may have misclassified this as a service payment rather than a purchase of goods. The furniture sale was completely separate from any services we provide to clients. Has anyone else had experience getting companies to correct 1099s for equipment sales? I'm wondering if I should reach out to their accounting department directly or if there's a specific form they need to file to void the incorrect 1099-NEC.

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GalacticGuru

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In your case as a business selling equipment, the rules are a bit different than for individuals. Since you're an established business, the purchasing company might have been correct to issue a 1099-NEC if they viewed this as a business-to-business transaction over $600, even for equipment sales. However, you should definitely contact their accounting department to clarify the nature of the transaction. Explain that this was a sale of business assets/equipment, not compensation for services. Many companies will work with you to correct the classification if you can demonstrate it was truly an asset sale rather than service income. If they won't correct it, you'll likely need to report the income but can offset it with the depreciated basis of the equipment on your business tax return. The key is ensuring it's not treated as regular service income that would be subject to self-employment tax at the full rate.

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Ana Erdoğan

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I've been following this discussion and wanted to share my experience as someone who handles tax documents regularly. The confusion around 1099-NECs for equipment sales is incredibly common, especially since the rules can seem counterintuitive. For your friend's situation, the key factor is that this was a one-time sale of personal property, not a business transaction. The manufacturing company likely has a policy of issuing 1099-NECs for any payment over $600 to non-employees, which is overly broad but helps them avoid penalties for missing required forms. Your friend should definitely contact the company's accounting department with a brief explanation: "This was a one-time sale of personal equipment I owned, not compensation for services or a business transaction. Per IRS guidelines, this should not have been reported on a 1099-NEC." Most companies will issue a corrected form when the situation is explained clearly. If they refuse to correct it, your friend won't necessarily owe taxes on the full $3,400 - only on any gain above what he originally paid for the equipment (if he even sold it for more than his cost basis). But getting the form corrected is definitely the cleanest solution.

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Jamal Wilson

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This is really helpful clarification, Ana! I'm new to dealing with 1099s and tax situations like this. One quick question - when you mention "gain above what he originally paid," does that include depreciation? Like if someone bought equipment for business use years ago, would they use the original purchase price or the depreciated value when calculating any gain from selling it? And does it matter if the equipment was used personally vs for business originally?

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Vera Visnjic

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Great question! The treatment depends on whether the equipment was originally used for business or personal purposes. If your friend bought the equipment for personal use and never claimed business deductions or depreciation on it, then his cost basis would simply be what he originally paid for it. Any sale amount above that original purchase price would be a capital gain. However, if the equipment was ever used in a business and depreciation was claimed on tax returns, then the adjusted basis (original cost minus accumulated depreciation claimed) would be used to calculate gain or loss. This gets more complex because there can be depreciation recapture rules that apply. For most personal equipment sales like in the original post, people are typically selling items for less than what they originally paid (due to normal wear and decline in value), so there often isn't any taxable gain at all. The key is documenting the original purchase price if possible to establish the cost basis. Since this sounds like a one-time personal sale rather than business equipment, the simpler personal property rules would likely apply. But definitely worth getting that 1099-NEC corrected either way!

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I literally just filed through H&R Block last week but used their DIY premium version for $55 instead of the $85 tax pro option. The software was super straightforward even with my 1099 income and some stock sales. It asked me all the right questions about my side gig and walked me through all possible deductions. Honestly if ur comfortable following instructions and have your docs organized, the DIY version might save you $30. It took me about 90 minutes total. The only reason I'd pay the extra for the tax pro version is if you're really uncertain about some complex situation or hate doing the data entry yourself.

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Paolo Conti

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I also used their DIY version but qualified for the free version. I owed a bunch though because I didn't have enough withheld from my paychecks. Would the tax pro version have helped with that or is that just my own fault for not adjusting my W-4?

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That's really just about your W-4 withholdings, not which tax prep method you use. A tax pro might have mentioned that you should adjust your withholdings for next year, but they can't change what you already had withheld in 2024. If you want to avoid owing next year, you should fill out a new W-4 with your employer and either claim fewer dependents or request additional withholding. The DIY software actually should have given you a warning about this too and offered to help you calculate better withholding for 2025.

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Manny Lark

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I've been in a similar situation and ended up going with the $85 H&R Block option last year. Overall it was decent value, but here's what I learned: The good: They did catch a few deductions I would have missed on my own, especially around my freelance work. The tax pro asked good questions about home office expenses and business mileage that I hadn't thought to track properly. The not-so-good: The whole process felt a bit impersonal since it's all done remotely. You upload everything and then get an email when it's ready to review. No real back-and-forth conversation unless you specifically reach out with questions. My advice: If you're organized with your documents and can clearly explain your side gig situation, it's probably worth the $85 for peace of mind. Just make sure to include detailed notes about your business expenses when you upload everything, and don't be afraid to ask questions if something doesn't look right on the draft they send you. For next year though, I'm thinking about trying one of the AI tax services people mentioned here - seems like they might be more thorough for complex situations.

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Lia Quinn

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Thanks for sharing your experience! That's really helpful to know about the impersonal nature of the remote process. I'm definitely someone who likes to ask questions as I go, so good to know I'd need to be proactive about reaching out. The AI tax services do sound intriguing based on what others have shared here. Do you think the $85 H&R Block option would still be worth it for someone doing this for the first time with a more complex situation, or would you recommend jumping straight to trying an AI service? I'm torn between going with something established vs. trying the newer technology.

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Klaus Schmidt

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This is such a valuable thread for anyone dealing with HSA issues! I'm a tax preparer and see these over-contribution situations fairly regularly, especially this time of year. One thing I'd emphasize is the importance of getting everything documented properly before you file your return. Make sure you have written confirmation from your HSA administrator about the correction and keep copies of all correspondence. I've seen cases where taxpayers thought everything was fixed, but the HSA provider's records didn't match what was actually reported on the tax forms. Also, when you're completing Form 8889, be very careful with Line 2 (your total contributions). This should reflect your actual contributions after the correction, not what appears on your W-2. Include a brief statement with your return explaining the discrepancy - something simple like "HSA contribution amount reflects correction of employer over-contribution as documented in attached correspondence." The good news is that you handled this exactly right by catching it early and having it properly reclassified. That saved you from the 6% excise tax and a lot of additional paperwork. Just make sure all your forms align with the correction when you receive them!

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Carter Holmes

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Thank you so much for the professional perspective! As someone new to HSAs, it's really reassuring to hear from a tax preparer who sees these situations regularly. Your advice about getting written confirmation and keeping copies of all correspondence is especially helpful - I definitely want to make sure I have a proper paper trail. The tip about including a brief explanatory statement with the return is something I wouldn't have thought of, but it makes total sense. Better to proactively explain the discrepancy than have the IRS question it later and potentially delay processing. One follow-up question: when you say "make sure all your forms align with the correction," are there specific things I should be looking for when I receive my 5498-SA and 1099-SA? I want to make sure I catch any errors before filing rather than discovering them after the fact. Thanks again for sharing your expertise - this kind of professional insight is invaluable for those of us navigating these issues for the first time!

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Great question! Here are the key things to verify when you receive your forms: On your 5498-SA: Make sure Box 2 (total contributions) shows only the corrected amount (excluding that $780). If it still shows the higher amount, contact your HSA provider immediately for a corrected form. On your 1099-SA: Look for Box 1 (gross distribution) to show the $780 removal, and Box 3 should have a distribution code indicating it was a return of excess contribution (usually code 4). The distribution should be dated in the year the correction was made. Most importantly, your 5498-SA total plus any employer contributions shown on your W-2 Box 12 code W should reconcile with your actual intended contribution amount. If there's still a $780 discrepancy after the correction, something wasn't processed right. I always tell my clients to request these forms early (HSA providers must issue them by January 31st) so there's time to fix any errors before the filing deadline. Don't wait until you're ready to file to discover form errors - it can significantly delay your return! The documentation trail you're building now will make my job as your preparer much easier too!

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Liv Park

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This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm facing a similar situation where my employer over-contributed to my HSA, but I didn't catch it until after the tax filing deadline. From what I'm reading here, it sounds like I'll need to file Form 5329 to report the excess and pay the 6% penalty, then work on getting the excess removed for next year's return. One thing I'm wondering about - if I file Form 5329 this year to report the excess contribution and pay the penalty, and then remove the excess contribution early next year, do I get that 6% penalty refunded? Or is it a one-time cost for having the excess in the account during the tax year? Also, for anyone else who might be in a similar boat with late discovery - I'm planning to set up quarterly HSA reviews going forward. It's clear from all these stories that catching these issues early makes a huge difference in terms of penalties and paperwork complexity. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences, especially the tax preparer perspective. This is exactly the kind of real-world guidance that makes these complex tax situations more manageable!

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Amina Bah

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This is really helpful information! I'm in a similar situation with a rental property I bought in 2019. One thing I'd add - if you're having trouble finding your Form 4562 from the first year, remember that it might not be in your main tax return package if your tax preparer filed it separately or if you filed an extension that year. Also, when you do find all your depreciation information, make sure to check if you claimed any bonus depreciation or Section 179 deductions in addition to regular MACRS depreciation. These would also affect your adjusted basis calculation when you sell. A tip that saved me time: If you used the same tax software for multiple years, look for a "carryover worksheet" or "prior year data" section. Tax software often maintains depreciation schedules internally even if they don't print them on the main return forms.

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Tony Brooks

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Great point about bonus depreciation and Section 179! I completely forgot about those when I was tracking down my depreciation history. I had claimed some bonus depreciation on appliances in my rental unit back in 2020 and it took me forever to find where that was documented. For anyone dealing with this - if you claimed bonus depreciation, it would typically show up on Form 4562 in Part I, and any Section 179 deductions would be in Part I as well. These can significantly impact your adjusted basis calculation since they allow you to deduct the full cost of qualifying property in the year you place it in service rather than depreciating it over multiple years. The carryover worksheet tip is gold too - I found mine buried in TurboTax under "Forms" rather than in the main return package. It had all my asset details that didn't print on the official forms but were being tracked internally by the software.

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One more resource that might help - if you're still struggling to piece together your depreciation history, consider contacting the tax preparer or firm that helped you with your 2020 return (the year you placed the property in service). Many tax professionals keep client files for several years and may have copies of your complete return including Form 4562. Also, don't forget to check if you made any capital improvements to the rental property over the years that should be added to your cost basis. Things like new roofing, HVAC systems, flooring, etc. These improvements get depreciated separately and will also affect your adjusted basis calculation when you sell. If you're planning to sell this year, you might want to consider having a tax professional help you with the sale calculation to make sure you're accounting for depreciation recapture correctly. The depreciation you've claimed over the years gets "recaptured" as ordinary income (taxed at up to 25%) rather than capital gains rates, so it's important to get this calculation right.

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Dmitry Popov

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This is such valuable advice about contacting the original tax preparer! I wish I had thought of that earlier. I've been going in circles trying to reconstruct my depreciation schedule from incomplete records. The point about capital improvements is really important too. I realized I had been treating some repairs as improvements and vice versa, which definitely affects the depreciation tracking. For anyone else dealing with this - make sure you understand the difference between repairs (deductible in the year incurred) and improvements (must be capitalized and depreciated). One question though - if I did make capital improvements over the years but didn't properly track them for depreciation purposes, can I still add them to my cost basis when I sell? Or do I need to amend prior returns to claim the depreciation I should have taken on those improvements?

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