


Ask the community...
I'm so sorry for your loss, Nolan. Going through a loved one's belongings is one of the hardest things to do, and having to think about tax documentation on top of everything else can feel overwhelming. Your great aunt is absolutely right to insist on proper receipts - those deductions can really add up with estate cleanouts. The good news is you don't need to make this harder than it has to be. From everything I've seen, the IRS is looking for reasonable descriptions, not exhaustive inventories. Something like "Women's clothing - 10 items including blouses, pants, sweaters, good condition" or "Kitchen items - cookware, utensils, small appliances, fair condition" is perfectly adequate. You're giving them enough detail to understand what was donated without driving yourself crazy counting every fork. A couple practical tips that might help: - Take a quick photo with your phone before loading donations in the car (wish I'd thought of this years ago!) - Do rough counts as you're packing rather than trying to remember later - Group similar items together on the receipts - Note general condition honestly Most importantly, remember that you only benefit from itemizing if your total deductions exceed the standard deduction threshold. With estate donations you might well get there, but it's worth doing a rough calculation first. Take care of yourself during this difficult time. The paperwork can wait when you need space to grieve.
Ella, this is really thoughtful advice. I'm finding that everyone's suggestions about taking photos before loading donations are so practical - it's one of those simple things that would save so much stress later when trying to fill out receipts. Your examples of descriptions strike exactly the right balance. I was getting overwhelmed thinking I needed to create some kind of detailed catalog, but "10 items including blouses, pants, sweaters" gives enough information without being excessive. I really appreciate you mentioning the standard deduction calculation too. I haven't even thought about whether itemizing will actually benefit me, and that's probably the first thing I should figure out before I spend too much energy on detailed documentation. Thanks for acknowledging how hard this whole process is emotionally. It helps to hear that it's okay to take breaks from the practical stuff when I need to. Some days I feel like I should just power through everything, but grief makes even simple tasks feel much harder than they should be.
I'm so sorry for your loss, Nolan. Clearing out a loved one's home while grieving is incredibly difficult, and it sounds like your great aunt is really looking out for you by pushing for proper documentation. Based on everyone's advice here, you're already doing great by collecting those blank receipts as you go. For the IRS, you really don't need to list every single item - general categories with rough counts work perfectly fine. Something like "Women's clothing - 12 pieces including dresses, blouses, pants, good condition" or "Household items - kitchenware, linens, small appliances, fair condition" gives them what they need. The photo tip that several people mentioned is brilliant - I wish I'd known about that when I was in a similar situation. Even just a quick phone snapshot before loading your car would make filling out those receipts so much easier later. One thing worth checking first: make sure your total itemized deductions (donations plus mortgage interest, state taxes, etc.) will exceed the standard deduction ($14,600 for single filers in 2025). With estate cleanouts the amounts can add up quickly, but it's worth doing a rough calculation to see if itemizing actually benefits you. Take your time with this process and don't feel like you have to tackle everything at once. The paperwork will be there when you're ready, and your grandmother would probably want you to take care of yourself first. You're handling an incredibly difficult situation with grace.
Keith, thank you for such compassionate and practical advice. I'm really starting to feel like I can handle this systematically instead of being overwhelmed by it all. The photo tip seems to be the universal recommendation here, and I can see why - it would eliminate so much guesswork when filling out receipts later. I'm definitely going to start doing this for all the remaining donations. Your point about checking the standard deduction threshold first is really smart. I've been so focused on documenting everything properly that I haven't even calculated whether itemizing will actually save me money. That should probably be my first step before I spend too much time on detailed paperwork. I appreciate you acknowledging both the practical and emotional sides of this situation. It's been hard to balance getting things done with taking time to process everything. Your reminder that my grandmother would want me to take care of myself first really resonates - she was always practical but also believed in not rushing through difficult times. Thank you for the encouragement that I'm handling this with grace. Some days it doesn't feel that way, but having a clear plan for the documentation definitely helps.
Something to consider - if your daughter is primarily saving for college, having those FICA taxes withheld might actually be better in the long run. My daughter had a similar situation and we learned that having documented Social Security contributions, even small ones during high school, can help establish her work history for future Social Security benefits.
That's actually a really good point. My son started working at 15 and I was initially annoyed about the FICA withholding, but our financial advisor mentioned that those early contributions can be surprisingly valuable over time, especially for establishing qualifying quarters for future benefits.
Just wanted to add another perspective on this - I'm a CPA and see this confusion a lot during tax season. The key thing most people miss is that the FICA exemption for minors is primarily about WHO they work for, not how old they are. Your daughter's situation is actually pretty common - having one employer that's a regular business (pool/city) correctly withhold FICA, and another that's a family business correctly NOT withhold FICA. Both employers were following the rules properly. One tip for parents: when your teen starts working, ask about the business structure. If it's a regular employer (corporation, partnership with non-parent partners, government entity), expect FICA withholding. If it's truly a parent-owned sole proprietorship and the child is under 18, then no FICA should be withheld. The $270 your daughter paid in FICA taxes will count toward her future Social Security benefits, so it's not completely "lost" money - it's an investment in her retirement that started early!
This is incredibly helpful! As someone new to all this tax stuff, I really appreciate the clear explanation about WHO the employer is being more important than the child's age. I've been helping my neighbor's 17-year-old with her taxes and was so confused why her restaurant job withheld FICA but her babysitting work for family friends didn't show any withholding. Now I understand it's because the restaurant is a regular business while the family work falls under different rules. Quick question - you mentioned the money goes toward future Social Security benefits. Does this mean teenagers should actually be happy about FICA withholding since they're building up credits early? Or is it still better to avoid it when legally possible?
You're absolutely right to be concerned about this situation - what you're describing is textbook worker misclassification. The fact that they're controlling your schedule, requiring you to work set hours without breaks, and paying a "daily rate" specifically to avoid labor law compliance are all major red flags. For anonymous reporting, Form 3949-A is your best option with the IRS. You can file it online or by mail without providing your personal information. Focus on documenting the control factors: do they set your schedule, tell you how to do the work, provide equipment, require you to be there during specific hours? These are the key tests the IRS uses. The timing actually works in your favor - three weeks is enough to observe their patterns, and the fact they haven't collected your SSN or had you complete proper contractor paperwork actually supports your case. Legitimate contractor relationships require upfront tax documentation. Don't forget about your state labor department too. They often move faster than the IRS on wage/hour violations, and the "no breaks" issue is a clear labor law violation in most states. Both agencies protect reporter anonymity. Keep documenting what you can observe naturally - schedules, supervision methods, equipment use - but don't put yourself at risk. Your safety and anonymity are more important than gathering perfect evidence. Even your testimony about the working conditions is valuable to investigators. You're protecting yourself and future workers by reporting this. These schemes hurt everyone except the business owners who are breaking the law.
This is exactly the kind of comprehensive advice I was hoping for! I really appreciate you breaking down the specific control factors that the IRS looks at. It makes me feel more confident that what I'm observing really is problematic and worth reporting. The point about the missing SSN/tax paperwork being evidence in itself is something I hadn't considered - that actually makes me feel like my short time there isn't a weakness in my case after all. I'm definitely going to file both the IRS form and contact my state labor department. Having two agencies aware of the situation sounds like it would increase the chances of actual action being taken. Thanks for emphasizing the safety aspect too. I was getting a bit obsessed with gathering "perfect" evidence, but you're right that my observations and testimony are already valuable without putting myself at risk of discovery.
Having been through a similar situation myself, I can tell you that your instincts are absolutely correct - this is classic worker misclassification. The combination of controlled schedules, daily rates to circumvent break requirements, and the lack of proper tax documentation creates a very strong case for the IRS. Here's what I'd recommend for your anonymous report: **IRS Reporting:** File Form 3949-A online or by mail. Focus on the control factors: they set your schedule, supervise how you work, provide equipment, and require specific hours. The fact they haven't collected your SSN after 3 weeks actually strengthens your case - legitimate contractor relationships require upfront tax documentation. **State Labor Department:** Don't overlook this! The "no breaks during 9-10 hour shifts" is a clear labor law violation in most states. State agencies often move faster than the IRS and take wage theft seriously. Most have anonymous tip lines. **Documentation:** Keep notes at home about schedules, supervision, equipment use, and any conversations about the payment arrangement. Even 3 weeks of observations show the pattern investigators need. **Timing:** Report sooner rather than later. Waiting longer risks them becoming suspicious, and you've already observed enough to establish their practices. Both agencies legally protect whistleblower identities, so your anonymity should be secure. You're not just protecting yourself - you're helping future workers and ensuring tax law compliance. The family atmosphere doesn't excuse illegal business practices.
This is incredibly thorough advice - thank you! I'm feeling much more confident about moving forward with this now. The way you've broken down the specific steps and emphasized both the IRS and state reporting makes it feel manageable rather than overwhelming. One quick follow-up question: when you went through your similar situation, did you end up facing any kind of retaliation or problems even though the reporting was supposed to be anonymous? I know legally they're supposed to protect whistleblower identities, but I'm still nervous about a small family business somehow figuring out it was me, especially since I'm planning to quit soon after reporting. Also, do you think it's better to submit the reports before I quit or after? I'm worried that quitting right around the time they get investigated might make it obvious who reported them.
Double check it's not an advance payment on your 2025 tax refund. With two jobs, you might be having too much tax withheld if you didn't adjust your TD1 forms properly. The CRA sometimes makes adjustments mid-year if they detect significant overwithholding. Happened to a friend of mine last year!
CRA doesn't do automatic mid-year refunds for overwithholding - they only refund after you file your taxes. More likely to be a benefit payment. Source: I work in payroll.
I'd recommend checking your CRA My Account first - that's your best bet for getting a definitive answer without waiting on hold. Look under "Benefits and Credits" to see if there are any recent payments listed with explanations. The timing of starting your second job is likely relevant. When employers submit your employment information to CRA, it can trigger automatic benefit calculations. Since you mentioned it's labeled "fed-prov/terr Canada," it's almost certainly a legitimate government benefit - either GST/HST credit, Canada Workers Benefit, or a provincial supplement you qualify for. Keep the money separate until you confirm what it is, but don't stress too much. These surprise deposits are usually benefits you're actually entitled to receive based on your tax filing and current income situation.
This is really helpful advice! I'm dealing with something similar right now - got a deposit last week that I can't figure out. The CRA My Account suggestion is perfect because I keep forgetting that exists. Quick question though - when you log into My Account, how quickly do these benefit payments usually show up there? Like if I got the deposit yesterday, would it already be listed today or does it take a few days to update?
Isaac Wright
I just ignored a $8.50 use tax I owed last year and nothing happened lol. The state has bigger tax cheats to go after than someone who didn't pay a few bucks on an online purchase. But technically yes you're supposed to pay it.
0 coins
Lucy Taylor
ā¢This is bad advice. While they might not come after you for small amounts, many states are getting more aggressive about use tax collection. Plus it all adds up on their revenue sheets. Just pay what you owe.
0 coins
Lucy Taylor
ā¢This is bad advice. While they might not come after you for small amounts, many states are getting more aggressive about use tax collection. Plus it all adds up on their revenue sheets.
0 coins
Abigail Spencer
For your specific situation with the $5.40, here's my practical advice: Yes, technically you're required to pay use tax, but realistically the enforcement risk for such a small amount is essentially zero. However, I'd recommend getting into good habits now. Most states let you report use tax on your annual income tax return - there's usually a line where you can enter the total amount of use tax owed for the year. You can either track individual purchases or use your state's estimation table based on income (much easier). Since you're just starting to deal with this, I'd suggest setting up a simple system: keep a running tally of untaxed online purchases throughout the year, then report the total when you file your state taxes. The deadline is typically the same as your income tax filing deadline. Don't stress too much about this particular $5.40 purchase, but use it as a learning experience for bigger purchases in the future. Better to understand the system now than be caught off guard with a larger amount later!
0 coins
Dmitry Volkov
ā¢This is really helpful practical advice! I like the idea of keeping a running tally throughout the year instead of trying to figure it out at tax time. Quick question - when you mention the estimation table based on income, is that usually more or less than what people actually spend? I'm wondering if it's worth the extra effort to track individual purchases or if the table method tends to be pretty accurate for most people's shopping habits.
0 coins